LS430 Big Brake Swap

Duplicolor 1200 engine paint works just as good too. Did my Hayabusa calipers on my street-chopper and they got HOT and never dulled the paint. Speed bleeders make life easy
Are you running stainless braided flex lines? Much better braking with them as well. The factory rubber lines flex too much and make the pedal more spongy.

Also, depending on what pads you use, you don't need the dust shields. The ceramics I was running had almost zero dust. I upgraded to Carbotech pads and they bite harder and also have very little dust. After testing the Cayenne/Wilwood combo for about a week, I went back to this set-up mainly because of weight savings, but the Cross-cast holes definetly enhance rainy wet-weather stopping.

I'm still concerned with the "slop" between the rotor holes and the studs. Any ideas to peg the rotors to the hubs?

Yes, the 5ea M14 x 1.5 lugnuts. The centering rings just locate the rotor on dead-center. The original setscrews are only for rotor centering to the hub as well.

I just put my wheels on and I have 6.5 turns on the lug nuts. Is this ok? How many turns is everyone else getting? I think 8 turns on a 12mm stud is considered safe. Where longer wheel studs req'd for this conversion?

6.5 turns or 6.5 full rotations? do you have spacers for your wheels?

Somethin aint right. Our wheel studs are M14 x 1.5 and I wouldn't go thicker than an 8mm spacer without using longer studs.

I've got 6.5 full rotations on the lug nut. I know the wheel studs are 14mm I was just saying on a 12mm stud 8 turns is considered safe. I do not have spacers for my wheels; just the added 5mm that the rotor added. Looks like I'm going back to the machine shop for some long studs.

That's very odd. Either you began with short studs or your wheels have too shallow acorn nut machining which I have seen on aftermarket rims.

i've got 17" turbo twist rims; I'm not sure if they're aftermarket or not. They came on the car when I bought it. How long are the stock studs? They could've been changed before I guess; I know I havent touched them.

Has anyone ever counted the number of turns they get on the lug nut?

Who machined your early hub?
When you add a rotor, the Early hubs already loose 6mm thread depth which is O.k. I'm beggining to wonder if your rims acorn channels are too shallow (they came off a BOXSTER). I would get longer studs.

A local machine shop did the hubs for me. I was told the rims did come from a Boxster... That must be it then.

Just a heads up to anyone else who has Boxster rims then, you'll need longer studs!

I pressed out the old studs with a table vise; it was actually pretty easy. I just ordered some 66mm studs from Paragon. I may need to use open lugs with these. I wanted to order 60mm but I couldn't find them anywhere.

spence wrote:I pressed out the old studs with a table vise; it was actually pretty easy. I just ordered some 66mm studs from Paragon. I may need to use open lugs with these. I wanted to order 60mm but I couldn't find them anywhere.

Use a table vise to press them back in. Use a deep socket in the front and a standard socket in the back and press in.

That's a good idea; thanks!

6.5 is bare minimum. It was on stoptechs site or tire rack I read that.

Read stoptech's site frontto back if you want to know about braking. They win awards with only a front brake conversion of their setup vs other 4 wheel big brake kits. Pretty impressive if you ask me. Not to thread dump, cause I love xchop's ingenuity, but when you go to a larger front rotor, you have to decrease the diameter of the pistons. Read the stoptech white papers. Basically, it's clamping force vs he rear. You want a balanced system and you want the rears to provide as much as possible. Even though they do squat. If you get too much clamping force at the front, I guess you could just put an adjuster valve in. Hmmm, but maybe it wouldn't work, as you can't add more force to the line. ?

Anyway, nice work, they look great, but just make sure you read their site, cause of all the brake manufacturers, they are one of the only ones that prints a white paper on information. They should be awarded a prize for doing so.

I bought longer studs. 6.5 is NOT safe at all. I've got larger rear calipers (RX-7 front calipers) and an adjustable bias valve too. I think Xschop has got it all figured out.

I agree, unless you get at least 10 turns, go to longer studs on the EARLY-LS430 hub swap. After riding in Ultrasuave's 951 with the Lexus/Boxster S brakes (vac boosted) I'm rethinking the 928 kit I came up with and will use Boxster S rotors as well. His set-up was the best stopping power of any 951 I've been in.

IIRC OSHA says 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt if your using it in any rigging or construction. For a M14 that would be 21 mm or 2.1 cm. With a thread pitch of 1.5 mm that is 14 turns. With that info I'm more inclined to think 10 turns is the min I'd use. Rigging and lug nuts aren't exactly the same, but its a good starting point.

not to start a fight...but....

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

actually, I just re-read it, and we are all correct, it depends on the diameter.

I just went out with uh, less than the required turns on my z06, oopsie. I thought it was 6.5 for everthing (from my subaru days).

Learn something new!

Gerry

Had some fun fitting the Turbo Trans and Xschops goodies. Pics show the Mazda Calipers and Uprated drive shafts by Rob (Xschop). VSS wheel from Eric (TPC) and the modified sloan sensor bracket.
Drive shaft bolts are Stage 8 Locking Fasteners.

I can't believe you found calipers that were already painted/coated. They look powder coated even....Beautiful job and V8 friendly

i am looking to upgrade to these on my 88 na. what is a bolt on master cylinder correction for the bigger brakes?

I've got an '86 951 project and I'm very interested in the LS430 caliper and 330mm disc upgrade. I'd also like to convert the car to late offset due to having a spare set of wheels. After reading practically all of Xschop's posts on the subject, I've got a question about which spindle / hub to go with.

A few years ago, I parted an '87 944S and I still have all the suspension components from the car. According to the info I've read, the front spindles & hubs would be ideal for this conversion. My dilemma is that I also have front spindle / hubs from my S2 car that I converted to M030 Turbo S calipers, spindles and hubs.

Which front spindle / hub combo should I use for my late offset, big brake conversion? Do you have any adapters available for either option?

As for the rear, would using the front Brembos from my S2 be a good match for the LS430 caliper?

Thanks for all the work on this upgrade!

Get the 87-up spindles with 76mm caliper ear spacing. I have been running the Cayenne 330 rotors on the Lexus calipers. I had to trim the axial mount interfaces on the adapters from the Boxster S setup because the Cayenne rotors set inwards by almost 2mm because of offset and rotor thickness 32mm compared to 28mm. The I just added 6mm thick washers to step the calipers out. When I get a chance I will make a run of the billet adapters soon.