944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Techno Duck Tue Mar 18, 2014 12:28 pm

Doc, are you still running the single fan with your rad or did you end up going dual?

Techno Duck

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Post  docwyte Tue Mar 18, 2014 12:31 pm

Ended up going with dual 11" electric fans. With the single fan you lose the "hi speed" for A/C as well as a low speed over run fan for when you've parked the car and turned it off.

With both fans blowing on hi speed I've got 3600 cfm now too, so that should help.

docwyte

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Post  Techno Duck Tue Mar 18, 2014 1:12 pm

Doc, I was looking at the dual Spal setup with the shroud, haven't measured to see if it will fit though. Are you using just two individuals? My car has no a/c but seems like I would get much better control with two smaller fans. I considered adding a controller in so the single fan can be run at low speed also, but adds a lot of complexity to the circuit.

I really just need to see how the car handles the hot weather and traffic, just thinking ahead though!

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Post  docwyte Tue Mar 18, 2014 1:33 pm

No shroud on mine, just the fans. Having the radiator open on the back helps cooling on track. On the street my temps were fine with the single fan, I had the PCM control it, hi speed only, coming on at 190F

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:08 am

Things are moving along. Old ABS pump and ECU are removed, wiring is basically done for the Boxster ABS setup and then we'll mount and plumb it. -10 AN fittings have been added to the both valve covers, plus some for a crossover tube between the two, from there a -10 will go down to a catch can that'll vent to atmosphere. The other catch can will collect from the LS6 valley cover.

Motor should be going in today, we've gone with 50# injectors to add some head room as well as a Katech tensioner setup to get rid of the failure prone factory one.

Hopefully have this thing fired and breaking in on the dyno this Friday/Saturday.

docwyte

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Post  Lemming Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:56 am

How about some pics of the valve cover mods!
Lemming
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Post  docwyte Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:13 am

I'll get em for you tomorrow...

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:17 pm

Here are some pics, two -10 AN fittings per valve cover, one set to link the two valve covers and one set to go to the catch can.

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Post  gdopnt Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:53 pm

Hey Doc

Real interested to see how your coil holders work with the hydroboost

gdopnt

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Post  docwyte Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:00 pm

Yup, me too.  The drivers side back coil might not fit, space is still looking kinda tight.  The motor is back in the car, but the cross member and motor mounts still need to be installed.  I'll know if it fits once they're in...

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Post  docwyte Mon Apr 28, 2014 9:06 am

So those coil pack relocation brackets do fit with the Mustang hydroboost.  Coils are now easily reached/servicable.

Had the car on track this past Saturday. Having some teething issues.  #1 is the fresh built motor isn't making the expected hp.  We expected at least 430rwhp, it made 390rwhp.  To the motor shops credit, when informed of the results they instantly were on it, no questions asked.  They're sending me another set of shorter pushrods, they feel the valves may be hanging open a little.  

Also have some tuning to do, if I let off the gas too quickly, the revs drop enough for the motor to stall. Motor is also running very rich (11.0:1) at WOT on the track once it's gotten warm(er).

Next up is the ABS, right now it's inop, as the plug I got didn't have pin outs for the alternator trigger or the warning light.  Feeling is that the alternator trigger lets the pump know the engine is on, so it can stop it's dx cycling.  I'll call Oklahoma Foreign today and get another plug.

Lastly I have a wicked vibration that's two fold.  One I can feel through the chassis when I rev the motor, which seems clutch/motor mount/torque tube related, the other is through the front end of the car.  We'll loosen/re-center the motor and retorque all fasteners and see if that helps.

The front end vibration occurs with both sets of my wheels and is intermittent.  Rack/tie rods are new, factory (old) control arms/ball joints were inspected and seem fine.  I've had this vibration for awhile now and it's driving me nuts!  Any suggestions?

docwyte

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Post  P911P951 Mon Apr 28, 2014 12:39 pm

In my experience, if the vibration is cyclical in nature, ie: comes and goes at mostly constant speed, the wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Easy to test, with car on ground, grab the top of tire and push in and out rapidly with reasonable force. Looseness will be felt as a bit of a clunk.

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Post  docwyte Wed May 28, 2014 3:13 pm

Ok, update time!

First off my front wheel bearings have a bunch of play in them, so they're getting replaced.

Next up the Boxster wiring plug with all the necessary wires was wired up and I know have working Boxster/996 ABS. Woot!

Then I had to replace my oil cooler because my old oil cooler core sprung a leak. Went with a 15x5" Setrab cooler that I mounted up in the front, so lots of air flow to it.

Then the shorter pushrods were installed and the car was re dynoed. Cue to the music "wha, wha whaaaa". Still made the same 390rwhp as before, but the motor runs much more smoothly.

Talked with the engine builder today and I must say, their customer service is outstanding. They fear there's something wrong with the motor internally, either a cylinder dropping or that the heads were ported wrong. They're sending a bill of lading to cover the shipping costs of sending the motor back to them, where they'll take it all apart, figure out what's wrong and then build me another motor.

Only bummer about this is the loss of a bunch of the driving season, as well as the labor involved in R&R'ing the motor...

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:15 am

Going to try and change the direction of the motor build here. If the short block is bad I'm going up in displacement. If the short block is fine and will be reused I want to switch over to a set of Trick Flow heads.

Doing the same thing the same way will give the same results. Time to change it up to get the desired results.

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:21 pm

Motor is on its way back to the builder. Hopefully will find out what's going on with it in 2 weeks and figure out what direction we're heading with the next one...

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Post  money pit 951 Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:36 pm

I have a similar setup with the AN10 fitting on the valve covers. I'm curious why you linked the two valve covers with the AN10 fittings. Seems like you have plenty of vent while the rings set
money pit 951
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Post  docwyte Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:52 am

To balance out the pressure between the valve covers.

Probably overkill on the venting, but I was having so much trouble with venting before, this is the way I went.

It did work very well, no smoke out the back while on track at all.

docwyte

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Post  zeusrotty Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:07 pm

All I did is vent the drivers side valve cover with a bolt on breather, and the catch can vents the passenger side along with the manifold. It def works well because before I did it I was blowing oil out of the dipstick.

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Post  docwyte Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:28 am

Well, the engine arrived at the builders shop and they promptly tore it down, then called me.

Short block is fine, but they found that the CNC work on the heads was less than optimal. They think the program on the CNC machine somehow wasn't set right.

They're being very stand up about all of this and they realize this is costing me half my season and a bunch of shop labor on my end. Because of that they're building me a 383 Stroker with Dart Pro heads for basically the cost of the stroker crank.

I couldn't be happier with this outcome, going from a 5.7 to a 6.3, along with the Dart heads should really make for a monster of a motor. Obviously I would've preferred to not have this happen and lose a bunch of the season, but the shop has been truly spectacular as far as customer service and their willingness to stand behind their work/product.

I should have the new motor up to me July 18th, hope to have it in the car and tuned the following week.

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Post  Sterling Doc Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:16 pm

Holy cow, that should be monster!


Last edited by Sterling Doc on Fri Jun 27, 2014 5:24 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  docwyte Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:30 pm

Hopefully! Just can't wait to get the car back up and running again correctly! It's been a long road. Had to replace the oil cooler core too, somehow that sprung a leak.

Haven't even had a chance to test out the Boxster ABS yet.  Crying or Very sad 

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Post  zeusrotty Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:36 pm

Who makes that coil relocation kit? How does it work with your hb?

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Post  docwyte Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:45 am

It actually clears the HB! So you do have access to the two rear coil packs. I bought it from Summit Racing, part # PRO-69520, you need longer plug wires, I used the MSD 39849...

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Post  docwyte Fri Jul 11, 2014 4:59 pm

New motor build is on schedule! 383 Stroker is getting shipped on Monday, should be here next Friday. Will be in the car, tuned and ready to go when I get back from deployment at the end of the month.

Just in time for me to get the requisite 500 miles on it before the PCA Club Race/DE mid August.

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Post  zeusrotty Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:12 pm

Cool, my new coilovers are on the way along with Xschops big brake kit. I should be driving it again next week. Tons of track days coming up!

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