HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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It begins....

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:45 am

Talked to Rich yesterday (Thanks btw!) and got much clarity on the wiring situation.

Turns out the wire I thought was the ABS trigger wire is actually the starter trigger wire. So now we'll just grab the ABS trigger wire from the passenger foot well instead. Rich also let me know that it needs to have +12v switched to it, so we'll either splice in wire and go to the alternator with it, or do what Tim did and jump it to the +12v switched power at that same plug in the passenger foot well.

As far as wiring the alternator, Rich also helped out there. I'm not sure I want to give my alternator 12v the way he is, as others seem to have had regulator problems doing that, but I'll put an inline resistor in place to give the alternator +5v and probably hit the Red Pin #15 off the PCM. Then hook up the blue cluster wire and finally know whether the alternator is charging properly.

Need to still deal with the alarm situation, as that charge wire goes through the alarm circuit and who knows what else does too. Need to figure out what relays I need to buy, purchase them, install them along with the "new" alarm ecu and hopefully that'll do it.

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Re: It begins....

Post  Rich L. on Tue Apr 07, 2015 11:01 am

You're very welcome. I hope you get it sorted for your first track day.

I hear you on the 12v / 5v thing. Was reading about that yesterday after we talked and am a little nervous about my setup now. I've kinda grafted the ls1 alternator into the 944 harness. But I'm sure it's working. What you're describing is replicating the Camaro/Vette wiring, which might be a better solution for making the alternator last. I'll be very interested in your results.

Rich
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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:33 pm

The wiring will get done in time, just found out which alarm relay I need. So as long as the alarm ECU/relay pop in and everything works on that end, we should be ok.

As long as the ABS cooperates with us and there aren't any curve balls...

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Thu Apr 09, 2015 4:31 pm

Well, looks like all the research on the alarm ecu, alternator and ABS wiring have finally paid off!

Everything works! Even the ABS brakes work. Holy crap. I think I put in the Boxster ABS stuff over a year and a half ago and now they finally are working.

Shop did mention that the pulse rate on the ABS is a little slower than they expected, so I might still have some work to do there, but they WORK. That means everything is hooked up properly and if I need another Boxster ABS unit I can it for $50 shipped and just swap it in there.

Picking up the car tomorrow am, shake it down this coming week for my first track day of the season April 18th.

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Re: It begins....

Post  zeusrotty on Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:52 pm

whos the source for the boxster abs unit? I need to get one also.

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:10 pm

Got mine from a vendor on eBay. Should be $50 shipped. I'd initially called Oklahoma Foreign, but they wanted way more.

You need to get the one with the two row plug, make sure you get the plug with about 12-18" of harness too.

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Re: It begins....

Post  Rich L. on Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:39 pm

ditto on getting if off eBay.
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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:15 pm

Well, having some fun with the alarm still, which also means the charge light won't come on since that circuit goes through the alarm.

Turns out the alarm in my car is from a '87.  Just goes to confirm that Porsche used whatever they had laying around.  So even though my car is a 1989 and *should* have the alarm ECU and relay starting with a "928" part number, it doesn't.

The alarm ECU and relay DO need to match, so not only did I get the wrong ECU, but I got the wrong relay too.

The ecu and relay I need are (Alarm) 911.637.104.02 and (Relay) 944.615.113.02

Hopefully will exchange with Lart and then it'll all work...

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:34 pm

So, the OEM Alarm Saga finally came to an end today.  First I tried plugging in the "Late" model Alarm ECU and relay I got from Lart.  The Alarm ECU is the 911 part #, from an '87 on up. The blue plug 928 part number one is what late '89's and up have.  For whatever reason my '89 had a white plug.  

You need to match the 911 part # alarm ECU with a 944 part # alarm relay, while the 928 Alarm ECU gets a 928 Alarm relay part #.

Ok, here's where Porsche started F'ing with me again.  So even though my car is an 1989, yet had the white plug Alarm ECU harness, it STILL didn't have wiring to match the 1987-1988 cars like the Part # 911 Alarm ECU has.  

So that meant that even though the Alarm ECU plugged in, it still wasn't working.  I couldn't open my rear hatch with the key and the alarm and relay were clicking away madly.

Sigh.  Time to do some more research on how to properly bypass the alarm in the 1989's.  A little while later I had a procedure that was supposed to work.  Guess I'll either burn up my wiring harness, or it'll finally work!

So I went out and did it and it WORKED!  Holy crap.  I can finally open my rear hatch with the key from the outside!  That's the good news.  The bad news is I still don't have an alternator charge light popping on.  According to my manual the bottom part of the volt meter gauge should light up, is that what you guys see?  Looks like the alternator charge wire still isn't hooked up right....

Ok, so what did I do?  

Well, first off you need to make two jumper wires with male spade connectors on each end.  Now go unplug the alarm ECU.  There are two plugs, one large 8 wire one, one small two wire one.  On the large 8 wire plug, jump the black with red stripe wire to the green wire, which should be jumping pins #1 to #3.

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Now go to the fusebox and find relay G19, which is the alarm bridge relay and remove it.  You need to jump pins 4 to 5 in it.  According to what I read, this was the red wire to the red/black wire, but on my car it was the red wire to the red/blue wire.

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You're done!  Dance a jig now that you've FINALLY gotten rid of the damn OEM alarm!

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Sun Apr 19, 2015 5:29 pm

So the good news is that I finally bypassed the OEM alarm and the rear hatch opens with the key again.

The bad news is my alternator charge light on the instrument cluster still isn't lighting up. I removed the cluster to make sure the bulb was there and not burnt out and it is there and isn't burnt out.

Ok, looks like the problem is how I've got the wire hooked up to the alternator then. Someone confirm, the blue wire at the fire wall near the master cylinder gets hooked up to which pole on a 4 wire LS F body alternator again?

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Re: It begins....

Post  phlip on Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:48 pm

according to alldata for my 02 camaro ls1 there only 2 wires going to alt.
large red is B+ from battery, other is small red from PCM terminal 61 on connector 2
that says "generator turn on".
I don't use the blue wire in stock wiring harness, the harness I had made from Speartech
turns on the field for alt through the pcm. I have the blue wire in stock harness terminated to nothing and my car charges and charge light goes out when engine is started. Not sure why though.
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Re: It begins....

Post  phlip on Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:50 pm

Oh, and alldata says it is terminal "L" on alt.
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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Fri May 01, 2015 2:19 pm

Success! Since I finally was able to wire past the alarm ECU, so the charge light circuit would work, I could now play with the wiring to the alternator. Turns out the two wires were just transposed, once we flip flopped them, the charge light popped on! Woohoo! Wiring is complete! Car is now fully sorted!

Well, until I break something...

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Mon May 04, 2015 4:42 pm

So when I finally think I have everything done, the car bites back.

Picked up a neighbor today in the car, plan is to drive out to HPR, where One Lap has stopped and check everything out.

He gets in my car, I go down the block and back, put the clutch in and the car dies. Won't restart, won't bump start.

I've determined that the fuel pump isn't running. I initially thought my friend had somehow jostled my aux relay/fuse block that's mounted down in the passenger foot well and knocked a wire off the fuel pump relay.

I just removed the fuse block and I can't see anything loose or missing, all fuses are good. Car still won't start. Fuel pump is relatively new.

WTF?

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Mon May 25, 2015 10:24 pm

Got the wiring fixed, it was the ignition power wire to that aux fuse/relay block. Moved the aux fuse block to the glovebox to keep it out of harm from passengers feet.

Car seems to be at 100% now, future plans are that IFC fiberglass cowl induction hood and a Brooks Motorsports rear wing.

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:10 am

Well, since these are project cars and the project never really ends...

Went to the track this past Saturday for the first time this season. I'd been a little worried about the placement of my oil cooler. I thought that putting it in front of the radiator could elevate the water temps, which is something I certainly don't need help with!

Turns out I was right to be worried, while it was a hot day, water temps were higher than before. Drat! Looks like I'll be going back to my old setup where it was mounted parallel to the ground just below the passenger fog light hole and I duct air down through it.

Boxster ABS brakes work! That was a real surprise and now I have to relearn my braking technique as I haven't had working ABS in the car until now. With the hydroboost there's very little brake pedal stroke and if you jump too hard on the brakes you can actually get the ABS ECU to go into "Ice" mode, where the brakes basically stop working.

Also discovered that only one of my radiator fans is working on "High" speed. Not sure if the other fan is dead, wiring to it is broken or what, but that's another thing to sort out...

New motor works great! Tons of power and torque, ran smoothly all day. Had another 951 one check out my car, his Lindsey Racing 2.8l blew a head gasket at the very least and it was the third motor in his car. That validates my LS swap right there....

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Re: It begins....

Post  Sterling Doc on Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:05 am

You may be hot from more power. Twisted Evil Ducting is really key. Make sure all the air that comes in must go through the radiator. Venting the hood can help as well. I'd try these things before moving the cooler.

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:30 am

Already vented the hood and built custom ducting. So those bases are covered. I shouldn't have mounted a gigantic oil cooler in front of the radiator...

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Re: It begins....

Post  Sterling Doc on Mon Jun 22, 2015 12:41 pm

Sounds like you are doing it all the right (hard) way!

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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:25 am

So I ordered two more hood vents that I'm going to place much closer to the center line and just behind the radiator. Those should help pull air through the radiator.

Also going to move the oil cooler and go back to my old setup of mounting it parallel to the ground just below the passenger fog light opening and duct air down through it. I may add a 2nd cooler mounted the same way on the drivers side and run them in series.

What are you guys using for radiator fans? I have the RD radiator with 2 11" Spal fans (unshrouded fans) and they're not effective enough to control water temps if I get caught in stop n go traffic here in the summer. (100F temps).


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Re: It begins....

Post  Rich L. on Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:44 am

Wizard rad with stock n/a fans. On the 100+ days down in eastern Oregon the cooling doesn't keep up and I have to back off after 3 or 4 hard laps.
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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Tue Jun 30, 2015 11:32 am

The water temps aren't stable on the street in stop n go at 100F ambient temps.

On the track, same as you, I get a few hard laps in, then have to back off. Hopefully moving the oil cooler back to its old spot will help, along with a few more hood vents...

It's just too damn hot up here and the thin air isn't doing me any favors.

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Re: It begins....

Post  zeusrotty on Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:26 pm

You should do what I did Doc. That ebay scoop I showed you works very well.

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Re: It begins....

Post  Lemming on Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:10 pm

I have a griffin with single 16" spal.  Mine does run hot in the summer, not enough to stop me going in a race, but I was not running the power that you do, that is until my next event Twisted Evil

I've not looked back through this thread, what does you cooling system look like (crude diagram might be helpful).  Ducting was the key for me, but maybe something is not hooked up right?
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Re: It begins....

Post  docwyte on Wed Jul 01, 2015 8:23 am

I have the RD/RH radiator with 2 11" Spal fans. Still have the factory AC condenser in place. Two reverse louvered hood vents on the outboard side of the hood. Custom ducting to seal up the opening and force all air through the radiator. Large oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

Plan is to move the oil cooler and add two more louvered vents that sit more directly behind the radiator. Then add better CFM radiator fans and shroud them.

I'm trying to control water temps on the track as well as on the street when I get stuck in stop n go traffic. Street temps are fine as long as I'm not sitting in traffic at 100F temps...

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