Tubular cross member

This just the start of the brackets, just thought ya'll might want to see.

Nice, you know what I need. Sold early mounts that will owrk on early and later transaxles.

Do you mean solid trans mounts? If so send me some dimensions or at least a good picture.
My cross member should be close to complete by weeks end. I am hoping to get the motor to sit low and the suspension back up where it belongs.

Awesome Eric!
Then I won't have to make these damned spacers NO MO...

Admin wrote:Do you mean solid trans mounts?

Yes, but I want one that can bolt to all trannies. The early tranny has extra bolt holes, whereas the late is missing one.

Maybe I'll buy one and send it to you.

Which mount are you referring to? The cross member That I am working on is the front one under the motor that holds everything in. If you need a solid type mount for your tranny, I have an 84 na that I will be taking a part real soon, I can make a solid copy of that. If that is what your wanting, Got pictures?

Admin wrote:Which mount are you referring to? The cross member That I am working on is the front one under the motor that holds everything in. If you need a solid type mount for your tranny, I have an 84 na that I will be taking a part real soon, I can make a solid copy of that. If that is what your wanting, Got pictures?

Yes, I want your crossmember when your done, and yes a solid tranny mount for an early would be what I'm refering to, but try to make one that will bolt to a turbo transaxle......

I only have an NA car here at the moment, I am in the process of buying a couple more and I might get lucky and get the turbo tranny. If not , if you can round up a spare stock mount I'll duplicate it in all steel for you.

Wow! So this means no more spacers, no more cutting/welding oil pans and no more special engine mounts/set back plates??

Looks like its gonna be heavy???

Shouldn't be much heavier than the stock cross member with the uprights bolted on. You will still have to use the set back plates on the LSx motors, but not on the LTx or gen I blocks.
I hope to be able to eliminate the leaky oil pans and relocated oil filters. No more spacers under the cross member or the struts. I have to get it all to gether to see what kind of problems might come about in the tie rod areas. Hopefully not much.

Hey Eric, the inner crossbrace at the ends should be angled upwards more away from the Control Arm Pivot bolt. If the end user (or yourself) drills the control arm pivot bolts higher, that brace will interfere with the control arm in tight corners where the control arm/strut is about at max compression....
Other than that, looks like a good set-up and a great idea.

Unless you plan to do some 20ft jumps there is more than enough clearance for the control arm pivot. I am designing these on the computer and not just in my head.
I have put a lot of thought into these before I even made the first cut or weld. I did not just start drilling and welding. These have to be identical geometry to the factory mount locations and that is what they are.

Admin wrote:Unless you plan to do some 20ft jumps there is more than enough clearance for the control arm pivot. I am designing these on the computer and not just in my head.
I have put a lot of thought into these before I even made the first cut or weld. I did not just start drilling and welding. These have to be identical geometry to the factory mount locations and that is what they are.

Aww, I make 30' jumps on my weekend job. I really can't wait for you to be done and look at the final product. Are you going to make the center section removeable?

Now our car really isn't all Porsche anymore......

I figured one of you guys would tackle this at some point. I'm really glad this is coming together.
Could never sell myself on the spacers.
If your intention is to make these in quantity and sell them, I'm down for one.
I know once I start buying parts there'll be no going back!!

I just ran into the fact that the inner bracing on the stock CRAPLOY x-member "MAY" interfere with the control arm, especially since I was about to drill it upwards exactly 1.25". What you are doing there is the way to go, awesome....

What, no SMS modeling.....oh sorry ERIC, forgot you are not an RH employee
Seriously, a 1-off X-member will solve some problems. The Steering rack still has to be dropped at least 1" in relation to everything else, and to get a stock 5.3l truck pan to fit without touching it, the back side of the crossmember should be angled down some, not so with a factory Moroso 20140.