Crossmember modification

Since i'm re-doing stuff, i was interested in what some people had done to the stock crossmember: Drilling the control arm mounting hole up ~5/8" to make the control arm level again (and not using the spacer on the rear of the control arm).

In the picture i'm thinking of, the person had also welded a plate across the bottom for additional bracing. Does anyone have any pictures or information on that?

The x-member can be set up on a Bridgeport and Line-Bored at the control arm mount holes.

I think it would be pretty easy to do even with just a press and some careful measurements, but i was looking for some pictures and some feedback from anyone who's done it first!

1.25" upwards will get you in the "sweet spot" where there is thicker casting and far enough from the old holes to where structural integrity is not affected. My next swap will be line bored with 1.00" holes with 1.00" puck divits drilled for the factory 12mm Bolts and TIG welded in......

But then i'd have to move the crossmember further down, which means putting the rack at more of an angle. I think i'd rather keep it simple and just move it up by the 5/8" that my current blocks are moving it down, even if i have to pay someone to weld up the old holes or brace it at the bottom. Hmm...

I cut out the center of my crossmember, had plates welded on where i cut it, and fabbed a removeable center section out of 3x3 1/4 wall. and recreated the rack mounts out of 3/4 plate with the rack boss shape that was on the old x-member cut into it. My engine fits without shimming the crossmember, and the hood closes fine. Total cost, about $30

Mark

OK, I found this old post to bring up a question. If I drill the holes in the crossmember at a distance greater than the thickness of the spacer how will that effect the geometry as the control arm will be angle downward at the castor block after removing that spacer. The difference would be slight and I don't think it would matter but I like to hear the opinion of others on the subject?

Piece of advice if you drill the cross member to adjust A arm geometry.
The A arm will hit the rear flange of the cross member when the A arm deflects upwards.
You will have to relieve a clearance radius on the rear flange. See pic.

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fliermike,
I see the relief you ground out. What was the center to center that you raised your mounting holes and did you leave out your rear spacers.
thanks sam

3/4", no rear spacers.

also, how did you handle the bump steer?

I hate to jump on your case but a big problem on this site is not reading previous threads/posts.
I posted a picture on July 5th of my bump steer blocks.

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If you go back in time and read the threads you will see that this whole lowering/bump steer subject has been covered in detail.

Sorry to load up on you, good luck.

Thank for the tip on clearance. I checked and it's not an issue, probably because I have custom A arms and spherical bushes.

fliermike45 wrote:I hate to jump on your case but a big problem on this site is not reading previous threads/posts.
I posted a picture on July 5th of my bump steer blocks.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

If you go back in time and read the threads you will see that this whole lowering/bump steer subject has been covered in detail.

Sorry to load up on you, good luck.

fliermike45;

Thanks for providing the link.  Up until last week I as well was one of those that asked redundant questions after redundant question because I didn't understand where to find that "Advanced Search" option until a fellow member explained where to look.

I apologize to all that I may have inconvenienced as I didn't mean it to come across that way and I don't think anyone else did either.  

Today I see Admin has posted a really good explanation of where to find the "Advanced Search" option is and how to use it.


ps: I didn't know that the blocks were yours (oooppps) thought they were xschop's. I may need more info but I will read up first and if I can't find an answer I will holler.

This site is a wealth of knowledge.  Knowledge in the wrong hands can become ungrateful and arrogant.  The honor earned in a true teacher is the ability to share without prejudice.  People who are willing to share are the ones you will learn the most from. A third grade teacher will teach the same thing to new students for 35 years before they retire.

Gdopnt,
One purpose of this site is for members to share the information they acquire from performing the changes and upgrades to their cars. That information is then available for the members to freely use.

The challenge apparently was the confusion created by the two different search functions in the software, one was weak but the other is very powerful.
Admin (Eric) and I addressed the problem and you can read the advanced search instructions in a sticky posted by Eric.

No one wishes to deny knowledge to curious builders, but does one always ask the teacher which page of a book they should study when the key is to use the index to find the required topic for themselves.

Hope this clears the air.

Some people use the site to share interest and conversation. Yes some posts are repeated but like people are sharing like interests and with that they will evaluate their ability to start or finish this project. If I was going to Spend my money with Eric but I was beat like a dead dog on the web site over the search function I might go somewhere else or not start at all. You have 20 plus people all sharing required parts but setups are all different. No swap is the same. With that I believe the air can't be cleared.

Some people should just pipe down. Some people know who those people are.