Hydroboost mounting master does not clear hood

Hello,
Was looking for some guidance with a hood to master cylinder clearance problem. I am using a Hydroboost from a 2004 Mustang. I have used the square mounting plate that came withe the Mustang unit. It has an angle already built into it. I also added 1/4" of kick at the bottom to get the advised angle of 12 1/2 degrees. When I place the hood on it interferes and appears to be about 3/4-1" too tall. I have the unit at the stock height of the cereal bowl center of stock master.
My question is this, If I remove the 1/4 " of shim that would drop it enough to clear I believe. This would also change my angle. The pushrod on the hydroboost has a gimbel built in to it. It seems this would make the angle of the pushrod to pedal pivot less critical.
Any thoughts or suggestions. I could remote mount the Mustang resivoirs, but I have not heard anyone mention doing this.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Seems your mounting plate is causing the HB to be high.

What mounting angle did you use for your hydroboost ?

I guess I will pull it off and recheck my angle. It seems that others are making it work at the 12 degrees up kick from the firewall.

Stock should be 10 degrees. I know 12 degrees has been mentioned but after measuring mine over and over it's actually 10 (10.13 to be exact). If you still have your cereal bowl, you should check it out.

I do still have it. I will measure it. Maybe that 2 degrees is enough to make the difference.

By the way, where did you guys plumb your 3/4 " line from the overflow tank into ? I am using a Griffin Rad. don't want to have to weld in a nipple unless I have to. Can I tee into a heater hose or add a nipple to lower radiator hose.
Thanks

for my car i went ahead and mounted my booster flush with no angle, instead i compensated by drilling a new hole in the brake petal a little farther up. this gave me a lot of leverage on the booster and i can lock up the tires with my pinky toe just about. i have over 2000 miles on my car and everything seems to be fine with the brakes. also lots of hood clearance.

Top: Steam pipe from heads.
Bottom: To expansion tank using a reducing fitting to match tank.

Fittings are aircraft aluminium.

Looking at the picture of a HB on a Cereal Bowl I think you are adding unnecessary height.
Moving the HB away from the firewall at an angle causes it to rise upwards.

My HB is mounted to a simple flat plate that is then fastened to a Sloan re-inforcement plate bolted and bonded to the firewall. The HB plate angle is set with wedges sandwiched between it and the Sloan plate.

All this was previously documented on this site.

Angle wedges.

Thanks for all the help.
I measured the plate that came with the HB and it comes out at about a 9 degree kick in it. Will use this with a couple of washers on the lower bolts and see where this gets me.
On the subject of the radiator, I 've got someone welding in a nipple for 3/4" expansion tank hose. I am going to run the steam hose from the throttle body to the top port on the expansion tank.

Did you ever get this to fit (hydroboost)?  I'm having the same issue and can't lower the entire unit any more without adding spacers between the crossmember and frame rails to lower the engine (no spacers currently).

on my install I am using 3/8" spacers on the crossmember. I did get it to clear hood by about 1/4". What is your Hydroboost hitting on that prevents you from lowering it ?

You may need to clock the HB unit a bit to clear the valve cover, but it will fit without spacers. I used Admin's mounting plate, it keeps the HB as close to the firewall as possible which is what you need. I'll try to post some pictures later today.

speedsterman wrote:on my install I am using 3/8" spacers on the crossmember. I did get it to clear hood by about 1/4". What is your Hydroboost hitting on that prevents you from lowering it ?

The valve cover.

Just use a few washers ass spacers. That way the booster will clear with minimal spacing.

I'm trying to use a plate and hydroboost that came off another 944LS race car.  I'm guessing that person had a different pedal set as the clevis was a different size.  Notice in the pic how high the HB sits in the access hole.  I can easily drill the plate to lower the HB, but then I hit the engine.



Here are two of the HB and MC. I put on the MC that came with the hydroboost, it uses a remote reservoir and should make this easier.

Ok, once I realized that the pre-made and previously used plate was not going to work, fitting it into the proper position was not hard.  Will have to weld a bit of backing plate on the upper passenger side of the plate for that bolt hole, the two bottom ones were just drilled closer to the HB body.  This should go quickly now.  With the reservoir on, it fits, but barely.  There is a good 1/4" of clearance with the engine.

Here is what I have.  Started as one of these plates from Eric:



Then I bent the center part to the angle I needed and welded it up.  I think the valve cover had to be removed to get it in there.  The stock clevis also had to be modified - one ear gets cut off and you use a bolt with nylon nut and washers to attach to the brake pedal.

It looks like your mounting plate has the HB set out much further from the firewall and not centered on the opening.  

Yes, it was not centered in the mounting plate and the entire unit had to be moved down and towards the drivers side. The plate does move the HP unit out about 1/2" at the top. The HB is in and close to being aligned, just need to add a shim on the bottom to that I can go back to the original brake mounting hole. Already in the process of modding the clevis, not sure if I'm going to cut off an ear or go with a heim joint

Here are a few pictures from when i mocked up mine. It took a couple hours of trial and error to make sure everything lined up correctly. 944convert gave me this plate, which i believe originated from TPC.

Side by side with xschops adapter;



Test fitted



Full mock up



Final instal, i did not have to modify the clevis at all, it lined up perfectly.



Unfortunately i didnt take any pictures, but i spent some time reworking the angle on the plate. It took quite a while with a chisel, a torch and some very light tapping. Once i was statisfied i welded the angled section up and had it powder coated. One of the biggest pains in the ass was retorqing that giant nut on the back side! I also cut a very thin gasket out that goes inbetween the mounting plate and firewall.

Overall i think this was one of the more tedious parts of the engine swap, it required a ton of trial and error fitment and it wasnt until the engine was installed that i breathed a sigh of relief that everything actually fit .

I think I'm going to pull mine off and put my firewall reinforcement plate on (1/4 alum). With just the backing plate bolted to the three holes, I can move the HB/MC combo a bit by hand. Although I doubt that I will need to apply much force to the pedal with the HB unit, I don't want any movement. Hope to have this done tonight.