Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

Having some issues with my boxster ABS pump. The pump is continually cycling on/off. My shop seems to think it's because the pump I have is a CAN-BUS pump. I got a pump ending in "00" with the two row plug, isn't that the right one?

Do I have it wired wrong? How/what do I do to solve this?

Note to self, anytime you change out the clutch (Jan 2014), you should also change out the hydraulic slave cylinder  

Bummer. Note taken here too. And it might be soon as I smelled the clutch a few times out on track yesterday. No obvious slippage yet, but I have noticed the friction point getting higher, like the slave isn't retracting all the way. Spec stage 2 setup, will it go suddenly?

Rich

Rich L. wrote:Bummer. Note taken here too. And it might be soon as I smelled the clutch a few times out on track yesterday. No obvious slippage yet, but I have noticed the friction point getting higher, like the slave isn't retracting all the way. Spec stage 2 setup, will it go suddenly?

Rich

I don't think it will go suddenly, unless you try a few standing race starts. I would go up to the stage 3 six-puck setup for your next clutch, they are great for the track (not much fun on the street).

Looks like I'm going to take the next couple of month off from the track. Need to install the new clutch slave, so WHILE I'M IN THERE!!!

1. I'm going to replace the torque tube. The tip (pilot bearing end) on the one installed is bad shape.

2. Take out the spare tire well and cut off TT fins to that it's easier to remove/install TT.

3. Install new front end (Broadfoot racing narrow body fiber glass piece).

4. Repaint the car.

5. Install hydroboost.

6. Refresh engine.

7. Lower car another 1/2 to 3/4" now that it is tightly sprung (900 lbs on all 4 corners).

Ha. My car will be down for the next 4-6 weeks as well. My new motor is going back to the engine builder as it's not making the expected power. They're going to take it apart and build me another one.

I'm debating rebuilding my torque tube while the motor is out, got a quote from Constantine, $1200. Ouch.

Do you already have the Broadfoot pieces in hand? If not, I suggest you read of other peoples experience with them. They have an extremely checkered past as far as actually delivering on parts ordered...

docwyte wrote:
Do you already have the Broadfoot pieces in hand?  If not, I suggest you read of other peoples experience with them.  They have an extremely checkered past as far as actually delivering on parts ordered...

Yes, I had read of the issues with not getting parts on time, but I still think they have the best looking fiberglass (made by HarryGlass, but BF owns the molds). I got my front piece in less than three weeks, in fact in came a few days before I was promised   

Giving up on manual brakes?

Sterling Doc wrote:Giving up on manual brakes?

I believe so. It's not that they don't work when you get you the ball of your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal. The issue that I have is that when I only get a few toes on the brakes, it's a sketchy proposition. In the end, I think that forces me to brake earlier than I want to.

Have you decided which hydroboost setup you will use? Any consideration out into using a pedal box?

Techno Duck wrote:Have you decided which hydroboost setup you will use? Any consideration out into using a pedal box?

Leaning towards the Mustang setup at the moment.

Pedal box won't help the force needed to "mash" the brakes. Plus, I would have to move my seat back even more, putting my head way to close to the roll hoop.

The Mustang setup works well, just make sure you have an adjustable rear proportioning valve installed...

docwyte wrote:The Mustang setup works well, just make sure you have an adjustable rear proportioning valve installed...

There's already one in the car that will stay. I ordered a reman unit and power steering pump from Rockauto.

While the brake setup is out of the engine bay, I thought I'd go ahead and change out the valve stem seals, since I'm still having issues with some smoking on startup at the track (after a hard run).

My remanufactured Cardone hydroboost did not come with the output rod, spring, or retaining plate. I could have gone to pullapart but found new here [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Butch at Talon suggested making my own output rod from 3/8" cold rolled steel. Both ends will have to be radiused and with a 20,000th air gap when the hydro unit is fully retracted. Hope this helps others.

That place has a lot of good stuff for us.

I need a GM Fbody power steering flywheel. The OEM part is NOS but can be found for $40-50. I don't like that design because you have to pull the pulley to remove the pump. Looking for an alum or steel with holes that allow for pump removal. Yes, turnone sells one for $85 and ebay has them for $100. Are there any other pulleys that work and have holes? Steel is fine, don't want plastic.

I sent the Cardone hydroboost back to Rockauto for a refund.  After a number of discussion with Cardone, it turns out that it was put together incorrectly and had both old and new parts (pre-99 and post 99).  Got a used one to put on.

Just go to a wrecking yard for one. I got mine for $50.00 locally. Plenty of wrecked mustangs out there.

I'm running the Mustang hydro boost as well

Car is currently in pieces due to numerous projects:

1. Hydroboost system being installed;
2. New clutch slave being installed, replacing damaged TT while I'm in there;
3. Cut out the spare tire well;
4. Installing new transmission cooler (951 stock loop was in bad condition and leaking);
5. Simplified some of the wiring, had become a real mess;
6. Installing new broadfoot racing front end and new splitter;
7. Lowering rear wing;
8. Considering building a rear diffuser;
9. Body work then paint!

Trying to do all this before mid September   

Checking engagement on replacement TT.  [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Here's an update on my summer build.

1. Hydroboost system being installed;
Unit is installed and aligned, just waiting on the cooler and pulley to arrive.

2. New clutch slave being installed, replacing damaged TT while I'm in there;
Completed.

3. Cut out the spare tire well;
Completed. This makes pulling the TT a breeze, no need to drop the torsion carrier.

4. Installing new transmission cooler (951 stock loop was in bad condition and leaking);
Completed. See pics below.

5. Simplified some of the wiring, had become a real mess;
Completed.

6. Installing new broadfoot racing front end and new splitter;
Not yet started.

7. Lowering rear wing;
Completed.

8. Considering building a rear diffuser;
Still in consideration.

9. Body work then paint!
Not sure it I will get to this before my first event in Sept, still on the books to complete.

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Tim - I'm also thinking of an external cooler, but have always wondered how you fill the trans to the correct level when the cooler is over the trans like that. The oil level is set when the car is stationary and would be the same level when the car isn't moving/pump not pumping. But when the car is moving, and the pump is running, wouldn't the oil level drop by whatever gets pumped into the cooler once the car starts moving? I'm guessing the lines and cooler would hold just under a quart?

Just concerned about running the trans/diff low on oil

I have the cooler set up so that it can be dropped easily.  When I added oil, the cooler was below the level of the trans and I also turned the rear wheels to make sure the cooler filled.  I then put the plug in the case and mounted the cooler. So, when not moving the trans is overfilled.