Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

Lemming wrote:Just spent 1/2 the day getting the pilot bearing out, damn, what a PITA with the engine in the car   

It's a pain with it out also. I had one that had to come out in pieces.

I went with the same stage 3, 6 puck, spring loaded disk.

Car is 95% ready for the race next weekend. I even cleaned it and touched up the paint today   

Tim, looking back at around page 7 of this build thread i saw you are using the 13/16" Wilwood master. Do you remember which part # it was?

Also are you using a shim inbetween the bell housing adapter and throwout bearing with your Spec setup?

Techno Duck wrote:Tim, looking back at around page 7 of this build thread i saw you are using the 13/16" Wilwood master. Do you remember which part # it was?

Also are you using a shim inbetween the bell housing adapter and throwout bearing with your Spec setup?

John, I'm using the Wilwood compact master for the clutch, see [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I am not using a shim on the throwout, when I measured the distance, there was no need for it. Engagement of the clutch is right in the middle of the clutch throw.

Appreciate the info Tim. I am still trying to figure out my disengagement issues. Bled the system today just using the pedal and its still a no go, going to vacuum bleed it tomorrow.

Jon,
The part number above 260-10374 is .875 bore and a 1.2 stroke-the stroke is not listed you have to call summit or go to wilwood site to get the stroke.  the part number your using is 260-6088 those are different because they list a stroke of 1.4 .

gdopnt wrote:Jon,
The part number above 260-10374 is .875 bore and a 1.2 stroke-the stroke is not listed you have to call summit or go to wilwood site to get the stroke.  the part number your using is 260-6088 those are different because they list a stroke of 1.4 .

Correction on the stroke 1.12 but still different.

gdopnt, i am aware of that; thanks though. I am just trying to get an idea of how much fluid has to be displaced to move the Spec pressure plate enough to disengage.

Stroke on the compact master is 1.12, see [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Snow has melted and I dropped the car off at Barber this evening.  Test and tune tomorrow, racing Sat and Sunday    Tires came home with me, it's suppose to be right around freezing tonight, can't have that with race rubber.

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drive fast, take chances!

Saturday, 3rd in ST2, 3rd Overall for Thunder.

1st in TT2

Going to 60oF today, race in 6 hours   

Sunday, finished 3rd in ST2 and 4th overall in Thunder. Not bad considering that my group started last of the three splits, so my grid position was actually #25 to start the race.

The new Wilwood Integra 6r brakes worked well, there was absolutely no fade over the race, which is a first for me. I used DTC 70 pads this weekend and everything felt great. Back edges of the pad reached a temp of 425oF but the calipers never exceeded 300oF. My seat of the pants data recorder suggests that the stopping power is better, but I will overlay some data and do a direct comparison with the Turbo S when I get a minute.

New clutch felt and worked well but is noisy when disengaged, but I'm not sure why. Will talk with spec this week to see if they have any ideas.

Car sputtered a few times under heavy load on Sunday. I'm guessing the plugs are fouling given the amount of oil in the intake. Will pull them this week to diagnose.

Congrats Tim on the finishes! Nice job and great to hear about the brakes. Car looks good!

Ok, I believe that I found what was causing the sputtering, appears the the #7 spark plug wire was loose at the plug (passenger side rear, is that #7 or #8?). Guess I knocked it loose when I was replacing the clutch last week.

Techno Duck wrote:Appreciate the info Tim. I am still trying to figure out my disengagement issues. Bled the system today just using the pedal and its still a no go, going to vacuum bleed it tomorrow.

Not sure if this as been covered, but a pressure bleed may be in order.  When I v8'd my Audi 90Q I had to use a pressure bleeder to effectively get the air out.  I ended up getting a Motive power bleeder...about $40.

Motives rock, I own a few, best investment for home mechanics to bleed brakes and hydraulic clutches. Nice to be able to handle this by yourself, without someone doing the up/down stuff with the pedal. I have found it is 100% successful, versus the manual up/down system, and uses less fluid.   

Howdy Tim. On your ABS wiring harness, a couple of questions. First, what did you do with pin 15 of the ABS connector? The diagrams indicate it would not be used but some of the text you posted says it should get battery positive.

Second question, what do you think of leveraging the ABS sensors for the LS1 computer's VSS signal? I guess that'd be either pin 23 or 24 to get a rear wheel speed signal. Perhaps you don't use VSS at all.

Thanks,
Rich

Rich, I did connect 15 to a fused 12V. I have run one weekend on the new system, but never got into the ABS, guess I need rain    I have a PCA DE this weekend but will not get a lot of time to test since I'm the CDI. I may rain on Saturday morning, in a way I am hoping that it does. If so, I'll head up to the top tier of the paddock to see if the ABS is working.

No VSS on my car.

Thanks. "Fused" seems a little odd for an 18 gauge wire. Could that actually mean "switched"? Is the "fused 12v" you gave it also switched with the ignition? How about the big pins 17 and 18, did you give them switched power or just B+ all the time?

Would love to hear if your ABS is actually working. Hope so but it sounds like you and your car are damned fast with or without it.

Rich

Need to check, not sure. Everything is hopefully still labeled. I should have time to look tomorrow after work.

Tim, I just ordered the plug/harness from Oklahome Foreign.  Does the new Boxster unit have it's own control unit?  Or are you reusing the 944 ABS control unit?

The pump and brain are one unit on the boxster ABS.

Great, that's what I thought, thanks!