Broken brake line right at MC, and other brake stuff

Hey guys, when pulling my brake MC, the last line (furthest from firewall, I think it is the one for the rears) broke. The connector must have been seized in that large brass fitting. I have seen a tool to flare the hard lines discussed here, available cheaply from harbor freight or similar, is this what I want to use to fix this? I'll need a new connector also, but I suppose I should figure out which MC I am using for the size? I will be using unassisted brakes, from what I gather, the dual MCs is the way to go, is there an absolute best solution as far as the size of the MCs? I have been following a few threads on this, but I'm not sure I have seen a clear "best solution" in any of them. I'll be using the stock turbo brakes for now.

Hey guys, when pulling my brake MC, the last line (furthest from firewall, I think it is the one for the rears) broke. The connector must have been seized in that large brass fitting. I have seen a tool to flare the hard lines discussed here, available cheaply from harbor freight or similar, is this what I want to use to fix this?

To be absolutely correct, you need a "bubble flaring" tool. But, I use a regular double flaring tool and the methods posted all over google (and videos) to simulate a bubble flare without the bubble flaring tool. You can just rent a double flaring tool from AZ or a similar parts house.

I'll need a new connector also, but I suppose I should figure out which MC I am using for the size? I will be using unassisted brakes, from what I gather, the dual MCs is the way to go, is there an absolute best solution as far as the size of the MCs? I have been following a few threads on this, but I'm not sure I have seen a clear "best solution" in any of them. I'll be using the stock turbo brakes for now.

The "connector" youre referring to is called a brake line tube nut.

Im using the wilwood tandem unit and Gregs firewall plate. It uses 3/8-24 tube nuts and so I had to convert it due to the stock Porsche tube nuts being M10x1.0. What I used was two steel 3 AN banjo fittings straight off the MC (to get as far away from the headers as possible). Then I cut the old M10x1.0 porsche lines, used some steel 3 AN tube sleeves and tube nuts, and flared the stock lines with a 37 degree flaring tool. Its cool like that because the stock lines are 3/16 and the AN conversion is 3/16.

Depends on which MC you go with though.

I need a freaking hydraulic fitting dictionary. You used the banjos off of the MC, but I am having a hard time visualizing how it all went together- wouldn't there have to be some kind of plug at the end of the line... or am I missing something?

This makes sense to me:



but I'm not connecting how to do this with the banjos coming from the MC.

You may just be using that picture as reference but dont use aluminum fittings in the brake system.

Yeah, the banjo fittings I used are just like that but steel.

Heres how it is:

Two steel 3AN banjo fittings connect to the master cylinder. Then, two 3AN SS braided brake lines go through the firewall. One of these SS 3 AN lines (for the rear circuit) is connected to the stock rear hard line with a 3AN tube nut and tube sleeve. The other line (for the front circuit) goes through the firewall and, with another 3 AN tube nut and sleeve, connect to a 3-way 3AN "T". From the 3AN Tee, another 3AN SS line goes back through the firewall and down through the front drivers side wheel well to the caliper. Finally, the stock passengers side brake hard line was attached straight to the tee with a 3AN tube nut and sleeve.

It sounds horrific but its really quite simple.

Yeah, that ano'd piece was just for illustrative purposes. That last pic you added gave me the perspective I was looking for- I though you meant the banjos were going out of the MC, which made no sense.

You have a very clean, simple set up. Which MC are you using? If I recall correctly, you have 993 brakes w/ no boost? Just the last few minutes of reading have me questioning whether it might not be more cost effective to go with hydroboost since I am using the stock turbo brakes, as opposed to the dual MC w/ adapter. Ideally, a single MC with bias adjustment... might have to see how it works with the pedal drilled .75 up before I invest in a braking system.

Anybody have a recommendation for a single MC to run manually, with a bias valve, with stock 951 brakes? I am not running PS, so I'd prefer to keep an extra pump off the car if possible.

Edit:
Wilwood 260-7563 MC 1
Wilwood 260-7563 MC 2
seems to be a popular choice?

That looks to be the one Im using. Although, mine has allen set screws (flush) on the side near the valve cover where he has those bolt heads.

For a stock system isn't the 1.00" bore a little large?