HELP! Clutch Bleed/pedal issue!

Hello I just got done LS swapping my 86 Porsche 944 Turbo, in this Swap it uses a C5 bellhousing and a C5 throwout bearing/slave. This car has the same layout as a Corvette with Engine up front, trans in back, with torque tube in between of course. A bell housing adapter adapts from the Porsche torque tube and to the C5 bellhousing. All clutch components are BRAND NEW, Including lines, master, slave, everything. The clutch setup we are using are all McLeod stuff.

the part numbers are:
Flywheel............McLeod 460530
Clutch................McLeod 272561
Pressure Plate..McLeod 360803

the issues are clutch pedal not returning and doesn’t feel like much pressure on the pedal. The pedal is moving the slave I do see it moving, not sure if it’s supposed to travel more or not. We tried every single method in the book (that we know of) we tried power bleeding, old school bleeding by pumping clutch few times, holding pedal down then opening bleed screw and closing then repeat, we even tried giving it its own clutch reservoir by cutting open a bottle and attaching it to clutch master fluid supply line and raising it high up and doing the old school method and nothing...I can’t seem to see any bubble coming out anymore from bleed hose attatched to bleeder Nipple. Just super lost....please help.....any ideas what may be wrong or maybe somethings broken or setup incorrectly??

Sounds like air trapped somewhere. Either the master cylinder or slave cylinder probably. Crack the line out of the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, have someone depress the pedal until fluid starts to leak then tighten the banjo bolt back up snug. Then power bleed the system again. I had some trapped in my slave cylinder that took forever to get out.

there is an overcenter spring on the top of the clutch pedal. it looks like this



remove that spring. it can cause a weird feeling clutch pedal and cause the pedal to stick to the floor

in the future try not to make multiple threads, it just confuses things. but if you check your other thread thre is some info about the over center spring on the pedal.

sharkey wrote:in the future try not to make multiple threads, it just confuses things. but if you check your other thread thre is some info about the over center spring on the pedal.

my bad i gotcha. i cant seem to find my other thread anymore for some reason. what about the spring? just remove it? for bleeding? or forever? or..?

C4924S wrote:

sharkey wrote:in the future try not to make multiple threads, it just confuses things. but if you check your other thread thre is some info about the over center spring on the pedal.

my bad i gotcha. i cant seem to find my other thread anymore for some reason. what about the spring? just remove it? for bleeding? or forever? or..?

I merged them for you.

944-LT1 wrote:

C4924S wrote:

sharkey wrote:in the future try not to make multiple threads, it just confuses things. but if you check your other thread thre is some info about the over center spring on the pedal.

my bad i gotcha. i cant seem to find my other thread anymore for some reason. what about the spring? just remove it? for bleeding? or forever? or..?

I merged them for you.

oh cool thanks!

Remove the spring forever. It is only useful when using high poundage pressure plates.
Though it can be done the way you are currently trying, the best way to bleed these is from the bottom up, using a pressure bleeder/injector to force fluid up and out into the reservior.

948 wrote:Remove the spring forever. It is only useful when using high poundage pressure plates.
Though it can be done the way you are currently trying, the best way to bleed these is from the bottom up, using a pressure bleeder/injector to force fluid up and out into the reservior.

alright cool ill give that a try. i do have a remote bleeder installed that came with the kit. what tool do i use to do that?

you would need a pressure pot bleeder to do that, like one made by motive products. they are a great thing to have, but i wouldnt run out and get one right away. id try removing the spring and seeing how it works.

some people have had issues with the factory master cylinder not moving enough fluid to properly actuate the clutch with these swaps, and as a result had to swap to a 13/16" clutch master cylinder. its sort of a case by case thing, some people need it, others dont. get it working first, get the car running and see where the clutch grabs, then go from there.

sharkey wrote:you would need a pressure pot bleeder to do that, like one made by motive products. they are a great thing to have, but i wouldnt run out and get one right away. id try removing the spring and seeing how it works.

some people have had issues with the factory master cylinder not moving enough fluid to properly actuate the clutch with these swaps, and as a result had to swap to a 13/16" clutch master cylinder. its sort of a case by case thing, some people need it, others dont. get it working first, get the car running and see where the clutch grabs, then go from there.

yeah thats what i meant by power bleeder. i have and used the motive power bleeder where you pour fluid into it and screw it onto the brake reservoir and pressurize the system. no luck...unless im not using properly..

the problem with checking if the clutch grabs is i pretty much have no clutch pedal still to work with..i have barely any pressure on the pedal.

I think weve all been through this. Only advise, try not to agitate the fluid (pump the pedal) too much as this will cause little microbubbles which will make bleeding the system very difficult. Can you see the bearing touching the pressure plate springs?

It will bleed eventually.

944-LT1 wrote:I think weve all been through this. Only advise, try not to agitate the fluid (pump the pedal) too much as this will cause little microbubbles which will make bleeding the system very difficult. Can you see the bearing touching the pressure plate springs?

It will bleed eventually.

aww man i wish i knew this....i think its too late..im sure thats why at some points thwe fluid was coming out white...after letting that fluid sit for a while in a bottle it returned to its normal clear state...

C4924S wrote:

948 wrote:Remove the spring forever. It is only useful when using high poundage pressure plates.
Though it can be done the way you are currently trying, the best way to bleed these is from the bottom up, using a pressure bleeder/injector to force fluid up and out into the reservior.

alright cool ill give that a try. i do have a remote bleeder installed that came with the kit. what tool do i use to do that?

To bleed from the bottom you would need a tool like this ==> Reverse Brake Bleeder

But as others have suggested, you may want to continue to try your current methods before spending some $$.