Rear Ride Height Adjustment - 924, 944, 968

I found this info at Tech-Session.com by Paragon Products


Porsche 924/944/968 rear ride height can be lowered (in most cases) by approximately �" using the following procedure. This adjustment was originally designed for factory ride height settings across the rear of the car.

Procedure:

Lift vehicle SAFELY!
Remove wheel(s)
Scribe lightly OR use paint to mark the current location of the Trailing Blade.
Loosen the 24mm Mounting Nut (pivot).
Loosen the 24mm Eccentric Nut.
Turn the 36mm Eccentric Bolt (bolt B) in the appropriate direction to raise or lower vehicle.
1 degree of change = ~5mm of change in ride height (compare against original location)
Moving the Trailing Blade up lowers vehicle ride-height.
Torque nuts to spec.
Replace wheel(s).
Lower vehicle SAFELY!
Notes:

In the picture, the trailing blade is at the highest possible setting (lowest ride height).
Maximum realistic range is ~4 degrees (~20mm or ~3/4" actual ride height)
Some folks recommend unloading the sway bar (remove lower drop-link bolt) prior to making this adjustment.
Once lifted and lowered, the suspension may need to be driven on for a brief time in order to accurately gauge the results of ride height changes.
Measuring ride height should be done from a common point in the suspension... not at the fender wells. A common point of rear suspension measurement is the center or bottom of the torsion bar caps.
Most US models came from the factory with positive rake set to the rear... this is due to US bumper height restrictions. The top edge of the bumpers were set to: 522 +/-20mm Rear, 526 +/-20mm Front (533 +/-20mm for S2).
Illustrations:

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Application: 78 and later 924, 944, 968

Tools: 24mm socket or open-end wrench, 36mm open-end wrench.

Torque: 180 ftlbs. for both

Credits: Skip Grehan

�"

Weird.

Great Post!

944-LT1 wrote:

�"

How about...

...� of an inch

[From the RH LS Instructions]

do you have pictures of this? I am trying to figure out which bolt is which to check where my car is set at right now.

i totaly disagree with lowering the 911 , 944 ,924 and so on in this way . does it work YES ! but if you ever want to scale aka balance the car you loss almost all or any rear ajustment to jack weight from the rear of the car . only letting you do the balancing from the front .

i totaly disagree with lowering the 911 , 944 ,924 and so on in this way . does it work YES ! but if you ever want to scale aka balance the car you loss almost all or any rear ajustment to jack weight from the rear of the car . only letting you do the balancing from the front .

I thought that when the 944/924 (can't speak for the 911, but would assume the same) was brought into the USA they had to raise the rear to get it to pass the regulations for the rear bumper. Using this method you could lower the rear back to where everything was level again. Is this not true?

I thought that when the 944/924 (can't speak for the 911, but would assume the same) was brought into the USA they had to raise the rear to get it to pass the regulations for the rear bumper. Using this method you could lower the rear back to where everything was level again. Is this not true?.

Not just the 944... most porsche cars US bound underwent this regulation. 911 GT2 and C2's owners are all over this. The most commonly known example was the 959 ... one of the reasons it never made it here. But Porsche isnt the only one. Audi gets it bad too.

what i'm saying is if you want to put the car on scales to corner balance it . if you lower it the way stated here you loss almost all the ajustablity in the rear only giving you the front to try and balance the car . this i have first hand experience with as a business owner that builds rally and road racing cars . so weather or not the car comes to the USA with a higher ride hight or not . does not change the fact that you loss the ability to ajust the rear because you pretty much have maxxed out the ajustment . so can it be done YES !

Best way to lower the rear is to re-index the torsion bars. It's a PITA, but it retains the ability to weight jack/corner balance the rear the proper way...

what i'm saying is if you want to put the car on scales to corner balance it . if you lower it the way stated here you loss almost all the ajustablity in the rear only giving you the front to try and balance the car . this i have first hand experience with as a business owner that builds rally and road racing cars . so weather or not the car comes to the USA with a higher ride hight or not . does not change the fact that you loss the ability to ajust the rear because you pretty much have maxxed out the ajustment . so can it be done YES !

Ahh, I see. thanks for clarifying.