RS Technic Conversion...

I really cannot answer that.
I'm using my NA shroud and that appears to bolt right up.
I may have to move a couple of the mount holes, but it seems to fit fine.
I'll be working on it this weekend. I'll look into it and post some pictures of my set up. Hopefully that can help.

Didn't get everything I wanted done this weekend, But I do have a few updates and such.

I did complete my budget Air/Oil separator. I used a $30 catch can from Ebay, 2 pieces of galvanized steel mesh, a length of silicon vacuum tube, 6 washers, 4 o-rings and 2 rear caliper boots I had from my last rebuild. Hopefully the pics are self explanitory. This design is rather common in the aviation world, which is where I got the inspiration. The tube from the valve cover goes through and below the mesh. The 2 mesh screens are 45deg offset. This forces the air/oil/gases to go through both screens before exiting the can. The screens act as a physical and electro-static (from the constant air flow) barrier to the heavier, higher mass elements. This causes them to condense on the screens and fall to the bottom of the can allowing the air/gas to pass on through to the intake. The PVC valve is placed between the valve cover and the can.

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One important thing to point out is that all edges of the wire need to be contained to prevent possible engine damage from metal ingestion (fliermike knows this as FOD). The small, single strands on the outsides of the cuts must be contained. I simply RTV'ed them before mounting them in the boots and on the washers on the silicon hose.

I will let you all know how well it does or does not work.

I am almost ready to prime, paint and re-line the engine bay. You will notice I have or will be removing all unneccessary brackets and mounts spot welded to the frame and body.

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I will be removing and rebuilding the steering column also.

Speaking of steering, mine came with manual steering, that being said I have everything I need to install power steering. Because I'm going with hydroboost brakes, I opted to get a turn one pump. I had them build it up for both HB and PS. The beauty is that if I don't like the PS I have everything I need to switch back to manual   
I got the PS rack and steering shaft off Ebay and saved enought to purchase the rebuild kit, new boots, both tie rods and rod ends for less then I could find a rebuilt rack.
So here are some pics of the rebuild.

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More on the way...
As always, questions, comment and concerns are welcome and encouraged.

jpkinerk - I haven't forgotten you :)I just haven't been able to get back to where the radiator and shroud are being stored. I will attempt to get to it tonight and post pics.

jpkinerk -
I'm sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner.
Here is what I found.
My NA fan shroud does line up with the 6 mount holes of the radiator, however, I am going to have to trim the top sides to fit around the fan temp switch and the top passenger side coolant hose. If you are not using the stock fan/switch set up, the supplied plug on the radiator fits and does not require any trimming on the drivers side.
The passenger side trimming is minimal, just enough to clearance the hose and clamp when mounted.

I will post pics shortly.

Hope this helps.

RS,

No worries. I just appreciate you taking the time! That's good news. However, I have a turbo shroud and fan setup, is this the same? When I purchased the radiator I was skeptikal when it said for NA or Turbo 944's, but this weekend I'm finally going to have all the parts in one place so I guess I'll find out!

Thanks again,

JP

Ok...
So has this happened to anyone else?  

What started out as a (relatively speaking) simple LS1 conversion has become a restoration.
Has anyone else said "...I'll never have it torn down this far again, if I don't sand it down, fix the dings and dent and repaint I will be kicking myself forever!"?

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I had installed the dynamat when I installed the stereo. I'm most likely going to pull it and the stock asphalt deadner and spray it all with lizard skin (not a product endorsement) both the sound damping and the ceramic insulating. Has anyone used lizard skin before? Good? Bad? Fantastic?

On another note, the torque tube has been stripped and is serviceable. It appears as though the bearings had been replaced as they are rock solid with no shaft spin in the two outer bearings. smooth with no play.
Once again "...I will never have it torn down this far...", so I'll probably be installing new Uber-bearings.

Thanks to Lart I should have an AOR within a few weeks.
BTW for those who know him, Lart and his family have had a loss recently, lets keep him in our thoughts.

I have finished modding Eric's oil pan line block. I went through a bit of brass to make it work. This will allow me to run the remote oil lines next to the engine, behind the exhaust, under the engine along the crossmember and forward to the dual oil filter assembly I have mounted using the mounting points the AC compressor used. The lines then go forward to a thermostat that connects to the oil cooler mounted in front off the radiator. I'll provide better pics once I have it all mounted and connected.

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and yes. I have painted most of the accessories high temp black "crinkle".
The first muscle car I was exposed to was my cousins 1969 RS/SS Chevelle with the 396 big block.
It came from the factory with black crinkle valve covers, air cleaner ect.
Call me nostalgic.

Also, I want to thank this forum and everyone on it. The information and support are fantastic.

More later,

Reed

An update on the exhaust.

My muffler has arrived   

I went with Magnaflo as I have had excellent results with them in the past.

It is a dual 2 1/2" to single 3".

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I really like this series as they are reversable.
I'll run my 2 1/2 duals in and a single 3" stainless resonator tip out the back.
It may actually fool some that the car is stock...until I start it   

Does anyone have any experiance with flexable exhaust pipe?

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I plan on welding everything but the x-pipe, for easy removal/maintenance.
It seems to me that connecting the headers and the mufflers to the system with flex pipe would be much easier then bending pipe (especially since there isn't a mandrel bender within 400 miles). I would have better control of the complex bends needed for a custom fit. I could also go back and make adjustments if needed.
Any thoughts?

Later Gators...

I used flexpipe for a down pipe on a turbo race car once. It was easy to do and worked but didn't last very long. Maybe it was the heat from the turbo, but the pipe split after 6 months.

As for your project scope creep, I admire your perfectionism but was careful to avoid it myself. Schedule was important for me to have a good summer driving season. I blew the 4 cylinder engine in September, pulled it out in November and was back out on the race track with the v8 in March.

Rich

Rich L. wrote:I used flexpipe for a down pipe on a turbo race car once. It was easy to do and worked but didn't last very long. Maybe it was the heat from the turbo, but the pipe split after 6 months.

As for your project scope creep, I admire your perfectionism but was careful to avoid it myself. Schedule was important for me to have a good summer driving season. I blew the 4 cylinder engine in September, pulled it out in November and was back out on the race track with the v8 in March.

Rich

Yup.
My buddy helping me keeps using logic against me. He is constantly reminding me that when I am done I will have a virtually new Porsche and I'd have to spend more than double to get a newer one with the same performance. Plus I get to customize this however I see fit.

Was the flex pipe stainless or galvnized?

No, it wasn't stainless.

Rich

Two thumbs up for Lizard skin, good stuff. Scope creep is always a problem, and if I didn't pursue XYZ I'd be on the road. But I have no regrets in my approach, I have chased the shiny object a few times, OK more than a few, but the final product will be worth the wait.   

Haven't posted for awhile, so here is a quick update.

I have received my AOR tranny from Lart (absolutely excellent to deal with, highly recommended).
I'll be taking it down to clean, repaint and replace all the gaskets and seals.
I will also be replacing the 5 gear with my NA's 5th for a "road gear".
I'll post pics as I go so you, the home viewer, can enjoy my progress   

Does anyone have prior experiance with the cooler assembly? As in performance. Does it function very well on it's own or are they being swapped for stacked coolers? I would need it mounted in the stock location as the spare tire well is not really an option. I'm not going to race it, just a few DE's and such.

I have also received the Lizard Skin ceramic insulator and sound deadner. I'm stripping the interior of all the old, nasty asphalt and felt fiber and will recover the entire interior.

Does anyone have a Brey Krause R-1020 Harness Guide Bar they would be willing to part with? I'd like to install it before I spray so it will blend into the interior.

Also, Does anyone have experiance with GT Racing body parts? I'm thinking of replacing my front fenders and hood with fiberglass. Since I don't have the electric sunroof I may replace this as well. Should be lighter and the pics of the underside of the hood appear to have no brace where the throttle body usually makes contact.

I'm almost to the point where I'm done tearing down and can begin building back up.
Let the real fun begin!

Lemming stuck a temp gauge in his trans with the stock cooler loop and temps were fine. This was racing down in Atlanta. Based on those results, I decided to just stick with the loop.

Rich