Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

Hood PIN Bracket....

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NA Radiator does the Job, just removed the nose cross obstruction.....
The turnsignals fit in the foglight holes too when the TPC nose is used.....

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Ebay oil relo adapter and oil pressure sender fits perfect behind the foglight when the driver's towhook is modded.....

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Interior is done.....
Got rid of the DJ Mann Blaupunkt too...Yeah Boi! Time for a sub update next....
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Absolute blast for a daily driver aren't they! Knock on wood a little over 6000 miles and not a ticket... I was parked behind my brother in law's Solstice last week so had to move when he wanted to leave. Couldn't help myself. To the floor and did a donut to be in position to take his parking spot when he left, bouncing off the rev limiter all the way around and the air thick with the smell of rubber!!!!!! He tried to impress me as he left!

Yeah, I've test driven a Slo-stice.....

Thought I would share my custom sub install. First off I used 60 mil EPDM self adhesive roof and window flashing (Tite Seal) from Lowe's.....$12 9" roll will do the entire rear of the 944 including the wheel well after a good cleaning.This is just as good as a sound dampener as "DynoMat". I cut off all the little nuisance brackets in the wheel well and re-primered, then cut out 3/4" birch plywood to match the rounded corner of the wheel well ....Piss on MDF it is heavy and swells if water gets on it. I used a tube of Polyurethane sealant meant for vinyl siding that quick dries...when it dries, good luck getting it off! No need for screws even. I let it dry a few hours then sound sealed the board after cutting the 12" sub hole. The pics don't show but I also stuffed the wheel well with some spare 30# fiberglass attic insulation for even more sound deadening as I am running the sub in sealed configuration with a bridged amp.....
End result is some serious bass and accurate with no ugly vibrations


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Check the specs on your speaker, I bet you only need about 3/4 of a cubic foot of air space. And even at that you should throw out the fiber glass insulation as it has the wrong mass to it and use loose pillow stuffing, I think it is made of poly ester, You would only need that if you box was to small. It make the Woofer think it is in a larger box. Yes I am sure about this as I used to be certified by Kenwood back in the day!

I do know that they make a polyester stuffing, you can use that will work better than the fiber glass. I see were you are going though.

Ran two kicker 12's under my 2001 Silverado ex. cab, even though the boxes were smaller than factory recommended air space.

I bought the sub because it is all EPDM cone and surround construction (waterproof) and it was inexpensive on top of getting good reviews. It also requires a little more air space which the 944 wheel well provides and it is DVC x 4 ohm so running it in parallel, I have a 2 Ohm load/impedance for my Kenwood amp (KAC 921) bought in 1990 and still is delivering solid hitting power. I figured the wheel well was large enough to add the more dense fiberglass material that decreases the air volume at the same time deadening the enclosure since it is steel.....works beautifully and the rear frame doesn't vibrate very much.
I do have a 3" dia. x 6" port that I was going to initially install, but wanted to hear what it sounded like at first so I could keep it all stealth and under the factory carpet. I like it so much, I will leave it as is....

Hifonics HFi 12D4
Subwoofer Size 12"
Voice Coil(s) Dual (2 voice coils)
Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms
Peak Power Handling 600 watts
RMS Power Handling 300 watts
Woofer Surround Rubber
Woofer Composition Injection Molded Polypropylene (IMPP)
Sealed Box Volume 1.25 - 2.15 cubic feet
Ported Box Volume 1.75 - 2.5 cubic feet
Sensitivity 88 dB
Frequency Response N/A
Xmax (millimeters) 11 mm
Top Mount Depth 5-3/4"
Cutout Diameter 11.0"
Recommended Enclosure Type Sealed or Vented

I see there were a few alarms in the parking garage that my exhaust note didn't set off

That's a pretty cool idea keeping it under the carpet! Sounds good? I have to finish putting together a hot tub before I can get to my subs and main speakers. I was thinking boxes or perhaps Bose 201/301 and one or two 12" subs? I have the amp and subs already...
I LOVE setting off car alarms!!

Measured 2x....
With the Iron Block installed.....

53.7 % FRONT 1600 lb
46.3 % REAR 1380 lb
----------------------------
Total 2980 lb

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sick!

I think I dropped another 5 lbs of dust when changing out the old bulbs lol. These new projector H4 bulbs are crazy bright.....

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time to change hood fenders vlance and header panel to fiberglass and make that car 50 50

F 50/50, No bucky is where it's at. If I were dedicated track....yada yada

Been well over 500 miles since the swap and took it on a high speed run to see what 5th can do...Looks like @150 mph. Not sure of the RPMs as my tach is still the only thing I haven't done. I noticed driving to work yesterday that I had vibes thru the steering wheel. Sure 'nuff 150mph will throw a stickered lead weight right off so had it rebalanced at lunch and took some pics....
The Lexus Brakes and Boxster Rotors are broke in with no funny scarring. After the cadmium coating wears off the rotors they bite even harder!....

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My camera phone broke a few weeks back and here is a shot of the hub mod that was lost. I lathed off 5.5 mm from the face of the hub cover insertion so the inside of the Turbo Twist II's would fit without any grinding..... there is still plenty of grab for the hub/spindle stub cover and comes off easily with a punch from the side.....

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Only the best for the DD Beast......100% petrol with a 1/640 ratio of Acetone/petrol......
The alcohol blends are sluggish in the 948
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hows ur rx arms supporting?

Mine work awesome, I'm assuming his are equally awesome. They are so good I'm swapping them onto my S2 cab when that project starts.

Tight handling with all Polyurethane isolators and they are quiet. I have checked the ball joint locknuts a few times.....SOLID.

Come to OKC we have the best roads for control arm R&D and that's on 4x4's LOL

Was at Ace hardware and discovered their ILCO brand key blanks for 78-95 Audi/Volkwagon fit our 944's... $2.99 + tax
ILCO 73VB-P

Snapped some pics of the initial install of my rear Bumper mod to go with Eric's Front Bumper delete. I shaved off about 4-5lbs aluminum from the rear bumper and installed it right back with the fiberglass 1-piece..... I trimmed the side contact edges down flat and used 2-part Plastic Epoxy to bond.....It works great and only cost $3 per side. I used Liquid nails where it mates to the rear bumper. It's solid as I took it over 100 mph for a minute or two yesterday at my favorite desolated straight run LOL....

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My spare TPC VSS kit arrived....Looks like 200g lighter than the modded 944 Cam gear!
Good workmanship too. Thanks Eric.
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how all the mods working out for you that you have done? mirror, rx arms, brakes, body, what it like down the highway?

If you've ever ridden a superbike with very firm handling on the high runs and instant nimble agility on the curves......it's like that with 4 wheels.....It has twisted acceleration in 4th on the Hiway and enough torque to continue the G-force assault in 5th all the way up to 150mph where the NA tranny 5th calls it a day........I think I'm going to nickname the 948...... "Holeshot"

Huh, hadn't seen the VSS kit before. Looks great! Probably change that on my car one of these days but for now, mine is working...

Yes, the XSchop version works like a charm with the $19 VSS sensor I posted. I am going to machine Eric's sensor bracket for the 1.00" sensor and 1/4" bolt hole for next install.....

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Look Ma, NO CATS! ....... F! CARB LOL......
Took it to the exhaust shop today to check for a leak as I started getting a backfire only on top end deceleration....lucky enoough to know after building many bikes that that means exhaust leak close to the exhaust ports....sure 'nuff a bolt came loose at the collector flange and was about to fall off...cranked it down and back off to the races..... I think I'm going to buy some Copper collector gaskets soon anyways....

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I had coated all welds with rust converter when the exhaust went in.....rust free.....

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I have a very small leak from the valley cover gasket that I need to see to next.....
This is the original C5 adapter plate......Doesnt look so shiney after 600 miles......
But the contour of the exhaust pipes after the modded Hooker 2312 headers makes the C5 2-piece BH removable bottom shroud a breeze to remove/install.....

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The Oil relocation lines clear the left exhaust by about 4 inches with the 2312 headers also.....
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While I had it on the lift I closely inspected my RX7 arms and custom suspension/brakes/tie-rod/bump steer kit and Modded early struts for late spindles......Rock Solid....

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RX7 calipers on the Rear 951 rotors broken in with no unusual scarring either....
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These fit right in the 3 main gauge cluster housings after the glass-filament bulbs are removed....
Only takes 3 and you have a spare.....
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T5 bulbs fit in the smaller indicators if you can find them in twist-lock style like factory....or you can solder the regular T5 leads in the old ones after the glass-filament bulbs are removed

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I only put in.....Blinker indicator......"Parking Lights" warning......and High Beam indicators......and last but not least tossed the large red WARNING! bulb out, it's useless on the 948

All tail lights are now 42 LED 1156 bulbs.If you have a Euro/Canada car there are extra parking lights in the housings FYI.
Also I got rid of the factory 3rd brake light as it is bulky and in the way of my full view when I leave some smuck behind Reinstalled a slim adjustable 32 LED 3rd brake light bar...Like it so much I ordered a 60 LED one at 2x the width if anyone is interested in this one in the pic....Pretested by XSchop....

While its on my mind, just spliced the red/white wire in the driver's side taillight housing round socket connector to the red(+) wire of the LED bar and ran the black ground wire to the same as my amp....

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