944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Plucky948 Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:00 pm

Hi folks,

New project here in the final stages. Really only 2 items that are kicking my butt are the ls3 tuning process, and getting the clutch pedal off the floor to actually function.
Starting off with the clutch system it has the renegade slave unit from the kit and master is using the stainless hoses. I have always been a fan of the metal hard lines but if pfte braided lines are better and do not kink or collapse I will try. Has anyone with stock 944 brake master cylinder blocked the feed to clutch(blue hose) and found a remote clutch master reservoir works any better?

With a power bleeder at 10psi I cannot get enough fluid running out thecremote slave line. This is the hose from the renegade housing that relocated bleed valve up to the firewall. Makes it easy to get to, but I can't get enough fluid through it. Any tips?

Tuning.. right now I have a baseline tune that is custom. Is it worth my time to pay for MVPi2 with HP tuners software to get the actual tune file for ls3 480 loaded or efi live. I am new to these products but not new to tuning. Just need to backup what I have working and load the base file to see the differences before making any changes.

Thanks,

Dave
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Post  sharkey Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:29 pm

are you getting any fluid through the clutch bleeder with pressure on the reservoir? it sounds like something has a blockage, first thing id check is to make sure the pedal isnt loading the master cylinder. if the clutch pedal is holding the piston slightly in it will block the reservoir port and it wont allow fluid through.

for tuning, well, pick your poison. i myself use hp tuners, i picked it years ago because they supported the non v8 cars i was tuning, where efi live didnt. back then it was said efi live was better for v8 tuning, im not sure if thats still the case, ive used hp tuners to tune many gen 3 engines, along with some gen 4 stuff and never had an issue with the software. with how they have now branched out to cover all domestic brands it makes it a good thing to have.

im not sure your tuning experience with oem computers, but with gm stuff you cant just load a whole tune file from one computer into another, one, it costs extra credits, and two, if there is a firmware mismatch (almost always is) you can brick a computer. in hp tuners editor there is a feature that allows you to open a file to compare to your file, what you need to do is copy each table and paste them into your file. now, the crate engine tune files really arent that great and leave a lot to be desired. they open up the min/max fuel trim limits to allow for variation in installs, along with being fairly conservative. its sort of like buying a complete carbureted crate engine, sure itll fire up and drive, but it can always benefit from tuning. so that being said, you can use the crate engine tune to reference things, but i would just start tuning what you have.

is your engine a take out or a crate engine? if its a take out, is it dead stock or did you do anything to it? and when you had the custom tune done did it just have the vats and emissions codes removed, or did they try to give you a good performance tune?

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Post  Plucky948 Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:46 pm

Thanks for the reply. I just ordered the blue hose that supplies the clutch master fluid from the brake master. It is from 1986 and it might be adding crap into the system. When bleeding do you leave clutch pedal up or down? I did this when up, 10psi pressure on the master and fluid came out just not gobs of it, more like a trickle. Will elevating the front end bit anything with a power bleeder.. probably not.

The crate ls3 480 is new, so are the electronics. Vehicle ran lean while cruising, but was OK when starting to get on the throttle. Idle is pretty nice, a little lumpy as expected with the 480 cam. For now I just want to get the cables and do some logging for an expert to analyze. Need to fix the clutch first. Are you using the Bluetooth interface mpv2 or cables for monitoring? I figured its free after getting cables and monitoring with hptuners but didn't get them setup yet. Ecu has stock tune I do not know about VAT yet but I will find out making a call to the supplier.

Dave
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Post  Plucky948 Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:50 pm

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Post  sharkey Sat Sep 15, 2018 2:30 pm

you have to have the clutch pedal up to pressure bleed, if you push the pedal down it blocks the reservoir and fluid wont flow. you will only get a trickle of fluid through, the orifice in the bleeders is pretty small.

it sounds like you have driven the car, so whats going on with your clutch? is it just grabbing close to the floor? many people have found that the stock clutch master cylinder is too small for an ls clutch setup and change the master out for a 13/16 wilwood master.

i use the older hp tuners cable, the bluetooth interface is still fairly new, and really i see no need to go to it.

how do you know the engine is running lean at cruise? do you have a wideband on the car? the o2 sensors are cruise should be correcting the air fuel ratio to keep it as close to 14.7 as possible. really what it will all come down to is the mass air flow tables in the ecm. even when you set up the air intake and mass air flow sensor exactly as the instructions say, the maf tables are way out to lunch. this is why i mention that every crate engine needs tuning. scaling the maf tables isnt too hard once you have hp tuners and a basic understanding of how to do it, and its likely all you will really need to make the thing run well.

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Post  Plucky948 Sat Sep 15, 2018 4:07 pm

Initially I had help with the base tuning and logging but did not get a knowledge transfer other than its lean and needs some tuning. So, no biggie since I have done this on my old turbo engine it's 4 more cylinders and no turbo so how hard can it be? Famous last words...lol. I do have aftermarket aem gauges a/f, oil pressure, coolant temp though no logger yet.

What you mentioned about the clutch master cylinder may be the case where it's too small for what it's trying to do. If the blue hose does not help flow I will start taking everything apart or at minimum testing flow from clutch master to slave. At least that plate comes off for access but I never really had issues with clutch hydraulics when the turbo engine was in, and bleeding was harder to get to but accomplished.
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Post  964ruf Sun Sep 16, 2018 12:41 pm

nice looking swap

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Post  Plucky948 Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:29 pm

Thanks, trying to better the vehicle as to not let it roach from sitting. Finally I was able to get the clutch pedal to come up again after 15 power bleeder attempts. When testing if you bury the clutch pedal it sticks down every 20 presses now which is about the same from the beginning. I am using the renegade kit slave master and it just don't cut the mustard. You can hear the slave squeak on each press so I do not know if it needs some sorta shim or is either rod is too long, too short. Shift point is pretty low so it appears maybe adjusting the master rod outwards might be next step.

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Post  turbobob924 Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:53 pm

Cool air filter intake setup

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Post  Rich L. Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:17 pm

I've always had trouble pressure bleeding the clutch system. So I put a SpeedBleeder on the bleed line coming out of the clutch slave and now bleed by pumping the pedal. Works much better.

Rich
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Post  Plucky948 Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:46 pm

There was crap in the clutch line due to old blue hose coming out on bleed. I ordered new hose from Lindsey plus other stuff. It never ends but as long as you have another working sports car to take away you are good. Hope it's easy to get that stuff out but my guess is it will require more effort than if everything was just new on an '86!
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Post  Plucky948 Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:32 am

The GM power steering pump unit has not been working out well with a 951 rack. I have already purchased a 944 sport manual steering rack to deal with it. The steering was so vague and noise while turning almost like there was not enough pressure built by the GM unit. Anyway it will clean up the engine bay and add a better old school steering feel.
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Post  Plucky948 Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:39 pm

What's cool is the new motor is at the 1k mile marker. Yes time for an oil change. Amazingly nothing has broken other than an HP tuners file that suddenly stopped working after a firmware upgrade. I had to go back to the stock file ls376 480 hotcam file and hella re-tweak the hell out of it to make it driveable again. It's like starting from day 20, but she's still fast and the stock AOR is solid.
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Post  Plucky948 Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:42 pm

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With the hotcam ls3, on a dyno is fine to get top end and mid power adjustment but cruise speed is not really adjustable here with the straps are on. On the street it bucks only at 10% throttle until hot. Still trying to tweak that out.
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Post  erioshi Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:05 am

Plucky948 wrote:... On the street it bucks only at 10% throttle until hot. Still trying to tweak that out.
Different cars, but when I had a bucking problem on my Evo 8 after switching it over to E85 and 1000 CC injectors I found I needed to rework the injector scaling a couple time to get driveability just right.

There was a lot of push from the forums to copy what everyone else was doing, but that left me with with a check engine light, finicky cold starts, bucking when cold and the odd miss here and there when warm.

I ended up pushing my injector scaling up one step, shortening the injector timings slightly to compensate, and then re-tuning around that new combo.  It took a bit of work but, I ended up solving all of the driveability problems and ended up with a great tune.  The car ran great in everything from cold starts at -30 F in Nothern Minnesota winters to 110 F hot starts in Texas and Arizona summer heat.

The key seemed to be working the injector scaling and injector timings to make sure both the short and long term fuel trims were within about 2.5% of the baseline. My short term trims were within .5% of baseline. It was quite a bit of futzing to figure out the right settings for this, but it really paid off in driveability.
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Post  Plucky948 Sat Apr 20, 2019 7:55 pm

Thanks for the reply. Moving from motronic based tuning to HP tuners has been slow for me. There is so much stuff to look at with e67 ecu where I know enough to be dangerous! Small steps have not made much progress plus I think my vacuum lines are not quite correct and the intake is custom lengths.
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Post  9sec Sun May 02, 2021 12:25 pm

did you move the hood latch over to the drivers side? any pics of the underside of the hood ?

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Post  Plucky948 Wed May 26, 2021 9:13 pm

The metal support holding the original lock and everything above the radiator was cut out. Where the headlight bar holders sat on the frame there are now hood pins. For safety the forgot to latch hood pin hook and spring were placed in the hood slot right to the left of center on drivers side. The receiver for safety catch was put in an aluminum shroud that covers the hole where the frame support was cut. Now you have a big hole to run the air intake straight to a filter that sits where the intercooler used to be. Because a 5" was too big of a filter it was teed to dual 3 or 4" filters that fit. And now it blocks the radiator cooling a bit and I am looking to redesign something. The original hood latch that was on the middle of the hood was just moved over a foot to driver's side. Nothing special there other than alignment.

The heat has beaten the car down after 3 years of WOT driving I popped the starter to smoke, and looking for time to install the big hood vents I bought last year.
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Last edited by Plucky948 on Wed May 26, 2021 9:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Plucky948 Wed May 26, 2021 9:20 pm

This isxwhat it looks like with nose removed. I am going to cut it and custom place a painted stealth looking Nascar style vent to get more air over top to the filters and hopefully squeeze a backplate to force air to radiator top by leaning the plate towards the front to get deflection to top of rad behind air filters. Is it legal to just remove the hood and nose and street drive it? Really I am still struggling with heat issues in the bay, cockpit as components are breaking after 3 years the hood needs a sledgehammer buzzsaw on it.

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Post  Plucky948 Wed May 26, 2021 9:28 pm

On another note, the power steering rack has shaken loose at the shafts, u joints and tie rods were bad. I replaced tie rod assembly,  installed cup adjustable coilovers,  custom adjustable strut plates, put in steel control arms that now dink on the exhaust header y pipe connector. The aluminum arms clear but now I can't even do castor properly.. rework.

Another project is my c7 vette drive by wire pedal. It has a standard Yukon pedal on now but the c7 floor mount needs a custom bracket on the little floor 8mm bolts. The alignment is a little tall for a pedal depth of c7 so working on that to get brake pedal and c7 floor mount drive by wire to be even and comfortable.here is the c7 unit and pigtail made by Stuttgart.

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Post  Plucky948 Mon Oct 18, 2021 8:21 pm

Does anyone know if the 86 944 manual sport steering rack shaft has the same distance as the 86 turbo power rack where is connects to the steering shaft linkage? Initially I had to have the intermediate shaft shortened at a shop to fit but not sure if the rack shafts differ.
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Post  948 Tue Oct 19, 2021 8:07 am

The manual and power intermediate shafts are different, I cannot recall the differences, a search on Rennlist and here will give you answers. I have a spare manual intermediate shaft, if you need one.
Manual  - 944.347.027.01
Power- 944 347 027 02
948
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Post  nphd2000 Tue Oct 19, 2021 10:51 am

Plucky,
I'm interested in how you are mounting the pedal. I will be tackling this over the winter and looking for options. I have the stock pedal from an 04 Tahoe but it seems ginormous to fit it in the Porsche. I'm looking at a small plastic pedal GM 23362231. Found one for $20.00 so I'll give it a shot.

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Post  Plucky948 Tue Oct 19, 2021 1:36 pm

I made an aluminum plate that attaches to the 2 gas pedal bolts. You have to recess it to attach it. Then a bolt in the plate to hold the dbw pedal to the floor. You can trim the bottom plastic hooks on the bottom of the pedal to give more downforce support into the plate. What I am struggling with is the pedal angle because it can be too tall or too forward. And being level with braking pedal is another task thinking about moving your foot back and forth. I had it mocked up but didn't permanently install yet because of other drivability issues buts almost there adjustment wise. Looking for a way to attach the top back of the plate can run up the firewall to another mount hole.
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Post  stu wright Tue Nov 09, 2021 11:23 am

Best way to bleed a clutch master is with handheld vacuum pump .Find the hole inside master that goes to hose or line out and use small tip on hose on vacuum pump and insert it in hole leaving room for fluid and pump it will suck all the air out while replacing with fluid .
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