Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

I shortened the factory knob for stereo clearance. I don't see how you can get a substanstial throw reduction at the shift knob without the long shift rod hitting inside the tunnel....

I'm in the shop building another one of these since I had a spare shifter. It would be very time consuming to machine all new parts including a new 15mm Dia. Rod.... If it is not 15mm, there will be slop where it inserts into the long shifter rod that goes thru the tunnel.

I made the longer lateral throw rod again, but looking at the factory part that I lathed off, it could be cut and welded (extended) quite easily since the welder is fired up anyways.....I won't bother with a drawing because it's a no brainer, but you can cut and extend it out exactly 12mm (30%)

But here's the beef.....

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Designed my Wiper delete plug with a stainless set-screw....no more leaky....
I'm not sure if I want to machine the "948" insignia as I will install Mike's Badge when the paint is done. If someone needs the rear window wiper FREE, just PM

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xschop wrote:Looks like we'll have another 948 owner this summer. After a test ride in mine, the shop owner got on the phone and bought a Silver 944 from some lady that threw a belt and towed it to his shop. Of all his P-cars I was more impressed that he's doing a ground up rebuild of this.....Wonder if I could talk him into a GM V8 swap lol...

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THATS RALPHS SHOP...

Yeah, he's got a lotta P-cars. And one that is being converted to a 5.3 with some goodies

I had to post my newest creation up as this mod is a keeper. Adjustable bump-steer kits are mandatory when you drop the X-member due to the Power steering rack which sticks up farther on the X-member. The only problem is the heim joint needs a protector boot and mine had already heat/dry rotted, so I came up with an inexpensive plan "B" that I've been running for months now at my 1.25" drop....These are precision machined 4340 steel and permanent 0.75" drop....So, from now on I will include a set of these with a Modded X-member and 0.75" billet crossmember spacers......Hood clearance and bump-steer issues are history....

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Little update. I've got over 18,500 miles on this daily driver since I did the swap with many long trips to Tulsa and Stillwater, Norman too. I'm about to rebuild the Power steering rack as it has begun leaking like a sieve. Other than that it has been ZERO troubles and an absolute blast. I am most impressed with the $40 Dodge clutch disc that has stood up to my daily flogging...still no signs of slippage.

Anyways Mike sent me his Power steering shaft and the Rennlisters say the Manual shaft is exactly 25mm longer and I would like a confirmation if anyone can confirm.

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The Power Racks stick up almost and inch higher on the 944 X-member than do the Manual racks so the X-member has to be dropped and I've done a few now where I'm confident to say that 0.75" is the sweet spot on the drop. Reason why is you avoid geometry correction pins at the Control arms/Spindles (like rennbay sells) by drilling the front control bolt holes (12mm Dia.) UPWARDS by 0.75" and adding 0.75" X-member spacers. This also eliminates the need for rear control arm spacers...The next issue to be resolved since the rack is dropped with the X-member 3/4" is the outter tie-rod to steering knuckle offset and that's fixed by running 3/4" drop adapter blocks (uses EARLY outer tie-rods M14 x 1.5 male threading)

Here's a pic of Mike's....

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The last piece of the puzzle that I forgot to post previously is the X-member needs to be clearanced by 3/4" for the relocated Control arm pockets....

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I'm going to machine long slots in the spacers like Van did and weld it back up. Depending on you header configuration you can flip the shaft if there is coupler clearance.....And like Forest said, "That's all I got to say 'bout that".....

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Is "Mike" 87-944S?

If so, this pic really helps alot in showing how he did his AC line routing...

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That's Fliermike's build. Also NOTE**** TPC's engine uprights allow for AC compressor clearance and the 3/4" control arm relocation at the X-member requires trimming the bottom engine upright stud down to the nut surface for arm clearance.

xschop wrote:That's Fliermike's build.

Excellent, thank you.

You might also note in the pic that I have incorporated KLA Industries anti roll bar strut braces.

They fit under the x-member flange instead of on top of the flange due to the 3/4" drop of the x-member.

The cable wrapped in a corrugated protector runs from the Alternator to the Starter Solenoid. I found it easier to run it around the front of the oil pan instead of behind.

Anyways Mike sent me his Power steering shaft and the Rennlisters say the Manual shaft is exactly 25mm longer and I would like a confirmation if anyone can confirm.

Mine (manual shaft) is 9.25 inches between the joints... versus your 8.25.

That's great news. So I'll post up pics what I did in the shop this afternoon to mod the Power Shaft thanks to a tip from Van. Lengthening the steering shaft properly got a little easier and now one can be confident that an extra 1.00" can be thrown into the adapter so the MANUAL RACK SWAP doesn't require the rare and expensive Manual Shaft.... You want to chop the factory shaft in two at 1.70" from either end. That leaves about 5/8" between U-joint butt and adapter so a good weld can get down in the chamfer nearest the U-joint... 0.75" is primo for the Power Shaft...

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I don't smoke and I hate having to remove, dump and shake the worthless ashtray to get some change. I don't have to worry about the celly going airborne either when I dump the clutch

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Should have made it a CUP HOLDER!

Is anyone in the swap process where they can measure the 2 factory steering shaft U-joint angles?

Rob,

I have not fitted my modified shaft yet. Can I help you get angles?

Mike

Sure, if you can. Just thought someone may have their engine removed and steering shaft and rack still in place...
I'm asking because I can clearance these 35* Borgeson joints for more angle if need be....And I'm not crawling under my car anytime soon. I just swapped in a good used Power rack and don't want to see PS fluid for a while

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XS, how much for that steering shaft? I had modified mine to be collapsable by cutting the slip joint out of a s10 and welding it into my P/S shaft, but i had to remove the oil pan from my engine recently and used the opportunity to slot my crossmember to slide your uprights to the passenger side, and cut the passenger side engine mount pocket off to give clearnace for my headers and center my engine better in the engine bay and now my steering shaft hits my header on the drivers side and i may be able to get clearance simply by going to that smaller diamter shaft.

thanks man.
I can get you a rough estimate on angle if you like since my steering shaft is currently offand can easily be put back on (nice aspect of the collapsable shaft.)

You assume I built something smaller than factory Diameter.
It's 0.75" diam. SS rod that's going on my swap. I'm building a 3/4" longer one for the X-member I just modded for use with Eric's Uprights which they are a tad taller than the ones I used to build.
I know you made custom headers and you can set your engine to the side by an half to 3/4" and it won't hurt anything.

If I build these to spec, you're looking at $300 shipped because the Borgeson joints aren't cheap. And I would build the DD rods only as 1-piece 4340 chromoly. I burned a new $40 end mill on mine because machining Stainless is a bitch. As for the joints, what's cool is they can be modded to make the U-joint needle bearings replaceable as well

You assume that I assume that you made it smaller than stock!!! Actually mine being modified for the slip joint is about 1-1/4"... Let me think about it, I knew the Borgeson joints were expensive, and i will need to do that eventually, but i think the best solution is the one that makes me wanna cry, more cutting/welding/grinding on those darn headers... If i EVER do another set of custom headers again i will pay a pro to tig them once i have them tacked...

Mark

Who's on 1st? LOL

Can you swap ends and get the part of the smaller dia. near the headers?

LOL! Dont you have stuff to build with all your cool fab tools? There needs to be a jealous Emoticon... Anyway, Yeah, I tried that, but I welded the slip joint directly in the middle of the factory shaft, i obviously thought i had ALOT more clearance to the headers... Anyway, Im heading out there today to pull the headers and get them ready to weld the collectors on and modify that one primary i guess. And i can get you the angles you needed.

Mark

Well, I'm re-fabbing my billet door knob pulls to get a fatter and taller finger pull as I have manual door locks.... I'm gonna see if I can get a small LED incorporated

Selling these for $36 shipped US-48 ONLY......just PM

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Hey XSchop what parts from an LS conversion kit will work with the 5.3l Gm truck engine? I plan to go this direction and wish to start buying all the parts needed over the next year or so before the install. What bell housing works with this set up as well?

All LS parts fit the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 truck motors. Get a C5 2-piece bellhousing (fits 168T flywheel) if you are going bigger than a 10.5" clutch (153T flywheel). I'm about to finish a 1-off swap kit with custom modded X-member if you are installing a power steering rack as a 3/4" X-member drop will gaurantee hood/TB clearance. You'll need a set of Eric's uprights and modded oil pan. I've put well over 18k miles on this engine with ZERO problems besides the damn power steering rack, but it's not GM so there you go.

So basically if I ordered Eric's LS conversion kit it would work with the 5.3L Truck engine. I'm trying to buy all the parts over time that way it less of a hit. For the computer what had to be done in order for it to work correctly? Did you use the Porsche one or a GM computer? Also with the 5.3l engine are you still able to use the Porsche brakes and brake booster? I have an 86 951 so I was hoping to stick with the stock brakes for a bit.