Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

So it's getting chilly in the mornings and my heater doesn't blow hot enough or warm up until I'm actually at work since I'm running no T-stat. The CSR KIT T-stat is short and doesn't block the hole that causes the coolant pressure to push the hot coolant from the block to the Heater core. I fixed that problem by installing the Truck T-stat in the CSR adapter housing after machining down the inner T-stat step by 0.18". The problem is that the CSR adapter plate doesn't let the taller truck T-stat seat all the way to the bottom either.....

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Ace hardware has 0.5" I.D. x 2.75" length springs perfect for the hood pins for lift assist so you can get your fingers under the hood

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Good call on the hood pin springs, I may have to pick a set of those up...

How are you liking the manual brakes?

I like them, they stop really well and have a good road feel to them. I see why the pedal-pushrod should be drilled upwards by 3/4 to 1". If not it would take too much foot pressure to really stop quickly. With the Dual MC's I've got it dialed in where the fronts clamp hard instantly and the rears pick right up and the 300 LB springs do not let the car dive with the V8.

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After running hard for 1 1/2 hours with fans on at 180 degrees thermostat installed.

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Good job. What have you decided for paint?

I will do something like Cfgoija posted in the spring. I just got a brand new windshield installed ($150 cash talks) and if there is a warm weekend or two, I will start the sanding and do some more body work. I also have one last major mod/project to do.....relocated vacuum booster

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I also have one last major mod/project to do.....relocated vacuum booster

Very much looking forward to this! Servos???

Hell no, all hydraulic with a Wilwood MC off a firewall plate to the same size Wilwood to the back of a C5 Vacuum booster and MC bolted backwards to the battery firewall. I can't believe no one has done this yet. You guys can brain storm the line re-routing as there will need to be a few hardlines made.

Do you have a diagram or picture of a car with this type of system. I tried a google and got nothing.

I dunno...you're talking about a single point of failure here!
The hydroboost is a pretty cheap option, i paid $140 for my setup, shipped!

Wouldn't the RHD 944's be a remote vacuum setup? Basically then it would be a copy of that system with the booster in the battery tray area.

If I can find this gearset, we have 0.64 ratio 5th gears for our boxes.....
Come out of Audi 2.2l boxes coded 2U,3U,4U,5U,6U
Audi #016311159P
Audi #016311353G

Ooooh, that would be nice!

Hey Robert,
You can find these gears on an 83-84 or 88-91 Audi 100 trans. code 3U (5-speed) or on an 84-88 Audi 200 with the same trans. code.
Sorry we weren't able to help you more with these items. Have a great day.

David Morin
Parts Dept.
Audi Dallas
214-561-1808

Allright I fibbed. Am doing another desperately needed mod. These inner strut mount donut absorbers feel like stiff foam and less like rubber (may be corroded) Anyways they collapsed under the weight of the V8/old bushing/ 120mph stoppies LOL. The strut top rebound washer is sticking past the stop-rings by 3/8" and I am hearing the rebound clunk.

I found that the 924 stop-rings will fit. Porsche/Audi part# 477-412-411. I have to get a set somewhere,
And Audi part# 0403-214-20 is stamped on the strut thrust bearing. Did some research and INA 823412249, and part# 357412249 are a match. I'm not 100% sure but I think the 1J0 412 249 is an upgrade with rubber seals that fits later VW's. Anyways I have my new thrust bearings and won a 4" x 8" stick of red 60A polyurethane from Ebay. The poly is easy to lathe but also easy to efup so it took me a few hours to get them done with the mirrored dimensions of the old 944 absorbers and I added 1/8" to the height dimension so they will last forever......

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Thats pretty cool right there.

Took 2hrs to install the polyurethane strut mounts yesterday. I just loosened the top strut lock nuts and jacked up the front and the coilovers came right out. Bolted up the newly assembled poly-loaded strut mounts with new thrust bearings packed with Molybdenum grease. Took it on a long spin this morning. The Handling and steering is way tighter now. Those rubber donuts were FUBARed. I really doubt I'll ever have to change the strut mounts again. Maybe install new thrust washers about every 100K miles or so

And yes, I am VERY happy with my homebrewed colover kit that cost less than $300/pr to build with new hats, 300# springs, KYB strut cartridges and late offset spindle mod (If I were tracking I would spend the cash on the Koni inserts)

Here's something Cooler-er..... No Centering rings needed, just some 17's. Forget trying to get these under 16's, not gonna happen.... The 77mm offset of the 928 GTS rotors allows for a thicker bracket and CAN go on the TURBO 94mm spindles for even bigger brakes..... I checked a GTS rotor and it even clears my fat bump-steer knuckles....

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Re-posting for future reference on Poly steering bushings. If I can't find a 40mm inner Dia. poly-u bushing for the passenger side of the Power rack, I will have to set up and CNC the inside of this Prothane part #22-701 set. This may fit the 944 MANUAL rack diameter if it is 36mm......

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Wow, $12 for those at amazon.com!
Don't they need the grooves on the back to stay in place though?

What about emailing prothane and asking them to make a part for us? Seems like they'd be pretty willing...and i'm sure they'd sell quite a few at those prices.

Looked everywhere and this is the only solution I could find. And prothane just made a mold of the Mk1 volks mount as the Audi/Volks # is molded right on the poly parts. So Yes, they should be making a set for our cars, I would pay double the $12 but don't tell them that. I do have 2 sets on hand and this is going to go down either way.

Just confirmed that the Prothane kit #22-701 is a direct fit for the 944 manual rack (thanks MN944S)

I've got a solid 2K miles on the swap now. I noticed after installing the stiffer Poly strut mount inserts that I have a small subtle erratic "click" at speed over bumps. I rocked the front wheels back and forth and it seems the small click is in the wheel bearings of which were brand new when I modded the hubs/spindles. Question is, do these bearings have to be readjusted/tightened after so many miles break in? Or are the 18's at 150mph the culprit lol.

on a standard vechile like my explorer 92 4x4 i did it at 500 miles, tightened them down, and no more problems