fittings

Hello,

I have ordered all the specific fittings from Summit, some aren't going to be here for a while so I can't actually play around with how they all fit, but I've got a couple of questions while I wait.

Is the below a special fitting to use the Tick Performance Bleeder? Is there any other way of bleeding the system without buying this. Also mentioned in the manual was just a 3/8 24 bleeder valve with some ss line, will the bleeder valve snap into that? All I can find online are the little bleeders for the brake calipers, this isn't what is meant is it?

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Also, I can't find the 12mmx1.00 banjo bolt?? I don't know where this comes into the whole chain of connections yet, but all I can find is a 12mmx1.5 or a 12mmx1.25 but no 12mmx1.0. I haven't even heard of that thread.

The last quandry was the fuel line hookup, what should I use to hookup into this? Can you just put a different fitting on there or what? Just looks specialty.

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Thanks for any help!

Is the below a special fitting to use the Tick Performance Bleeder? Is there any other way of bleeding the system without buying this.

You do not have to buy the remote bleeder at all. It just makes things easier. The stock long hex bleeder (to the right of the hose in your picture) will work as well.

Also mentioned in the manual was just a 3/8 24 bleeder valve with some ss line, will the bleeder valve snap into that? All I can find online are the little bleeders for the brake calipers, this isn't what is meant is it?

No, You either may use the tickperformance setup, or the stock setup as you have right now. They will not interchange. The Tickperformance remote bleeder is made up of a 10 X 1.5mm to -3AN threaded fitting, a copper crush washer, and 4 foot section of -3AN SS hose and a simple 3/8-24 speedbleeder at the end. This is all for simply bleeding the clutch. [Now I just have to throw this in there... It just so happens that I recently got to the bleeding-the-clutch part of my conversion and I cannot say enough about how happy I am about buying this thing! I simply cracked the bleeder, put it in a can, pumped maybe 3 times and POW! Done!]

The hose you have your hand on is the supply line from the clutch master to the clutch slave. It has (should) a special "quik" coupling that connects to another hose from the clutch master. You cannot use this hose anymore unless you somehow graft it to the stock Y/F/W body hose which would cost more than simply buying the required fittings and hose.

What I did (and what worked great btw) was buy a 26" pre-made AN hose with fittings already affixed, a roll-pin to -3AN adapter to adapt the C5 clutch slave to the AN hose, a 12 x 1.0mm concave to -3AN fitting to adapt the clutch master to -3AN, and a 90 degree male to female -3AN fitting. This was a perfect mating and works great. Part numbers in pictures below.....
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This is how my setup looked before final install.....
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Also, I can't find the 12mmx1.00 banjo bolt?? I don't know where this comes into the whole chain of connections yet, but all I can find is a 12mm x 1.5 or a 12mmx1.25 but no 12mmx1.0. I haven't even heard of that thread.

The 12mm x 1.0 to -3AN banjo was something I found just after I placed the order for the above. It would be used instead of the blue aluminum 12 x 1.0mm concave adapter out of the clutch master and also rids the use of the -3AN male to female 90 degree fitting. These banjos are common on Harleys I guess. I just mentioned it all to Greg before final print as a possible alternative to aluminum fittings/price.
Anyway, the reason youre not finding it is because you have to split them up. Look for a 12mm to -3AN banjo alone. Then look for a 12mm x 1.0 banjo bolt. For instance....
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The last quandry was the fuel line hookup, what should I use to hookup into this? Can you just put a different fitting on there or what? Just looks specialty

That is a female double-bead fitting. It is a quick fitting used by GM. You will need to either convert from the fuel rail with Russels 640850 double bead female to -6AN male fitting and continue back with -6AN SS hose....
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Or, you can use that hose and simply buy the fuel repair kit at a local parts house (I havent done this...so Im not sure what it entails). On my conversion, I used the above adapter fitting at the fuel rail straight away to a -6AN fitting and hose to Russels 640940 double bead male to 6AN male...
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Try this thread for more on this.... [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Hope this helps!

Wow!!! Thanks a million, that was a better response than I would have ever hoped for. As I go through it in more detail I might have some questions, but looks like you covered most of it.

This is still the only 12mmx1.0 banjo bolt that I can find: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

You dont have to go the banjo bolt path. But if you do, you may want to call pegasus racing and ask them. They may have them!

Well I've already got the AN side of the banjo bolt setup laying around so I'm definitely going that route.

THese guys look to have a whole lot to chose from.

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Maybe just a phone call away?

Will this work? It's aluminum, but so are the specialty adapters. I was hoping to save more money than this bolt will, but I'm half way there so I can't change horses now.

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Most frown upon useage of aluminum fittings with brake systems. When fitting an aluminum fitting to steel, you are coupling two different metals, in which case the steel electrolytically corrodes the aluminum....aka galvanic corrosion....http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion


You should try and find steel fittings......Ye be warned.

Nonetheless, I am using the aluminum adapter at the master to AN hose. Also, I believe GM's clutch throw-out is aluminum with a steel threaded bleeder???? But, just putting this info out there for ya.

As far as the banjo route, I really dont know. Pave the way though and let us know!

Great, thanks for all your help

Try here...you will have to call.
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This is the Goodridge part number, 992-04-M121; I think you have to add a "P" to end for zinc plated steel.
Try this place.. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

awesome, thanks for the tips. I'll call them tomorrow.

nopedy no

did you try these guys also?

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Try some motorbike stores. Some of the clutch and oil feeds are M12 x 1.0
If not find a M12 x 1.0 and drill it...BTDT

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Excellent, thanks xschop!

I've got two more questions:

1. When you said that you ran 6AN hoses all the way back did you replace all of the 944 fuel lines? What type of thread are already in place on the 944? I can see exactly how the push connectors work with a 6AN system, but I can't identify the thread on the stock (Porsche) lines and I was wondering whether they have to be completely replaced. Sorry for the stupid question. I guess I don't fully understand how it'll all go together. Also to go from the filter to the stock lines you would need some sort of female to female coupler. The picture is cut off again, I didn't want to reduce the res too much when I uploaded it though.

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One potential Setup would be:
Fuel Rail: RUS-640850: 6AN male/male hose to rear of car: RUS-640940: Fuel Filter GM, 10299146: RUS-640860 for return line: ???? to Porsche return line by the tank: RUS-640850 for feed line to filter: ????? to Porsche feed line from tank.

2. My other question concerns the brake lines and brake fittings. The wilwood master cylinder is all mounted in the car, but there is only one port for the rear and one for the front. The Porsche cylinder had two ports for the fronts. I was wondering if I should do the obvious, add a tee for the fronts. Also, what are the thread sizes for the Porsche brake lines and the wilwood connections? They obviously are not the same and I was wondering what adapters other people used. There weren't any thread sizes/types listed with the WilWood master cylinder.

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Sorry about all the questions, I just haven't had any experience with the millions of different fitting types and special threads that go along with them. I'm learning a lot and I appreciate the patience. I will obviously put the stock Porsche rear proportioning valve in series with the rear brake lines.

Thanks,
Luke

Ok, something like this should work, right?

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I brought the old fuel filter up with me this week so I can get the thread sizes for that tomorrow, but if anyone knows what the standard sizes for the brake lines are that would be helpful. Both on the Wilwood and Porsche ends.

Thanks

Well, youre just everywhere at once arent ya.

My other question concerns the brake lines and brake fittings. The wilwood master cylinder is all mounted in the car, but there is only one port for the rear and one for the front. The Porsche cylinder had two ports for the fronts. I was wondering if I should do the obvious, add a tee for the fronts. Also, what are the thread sizes for the Porsche brake lines and the wilwood connections? They obviously are not the same and I was wondering what adapters other people used. There weren't any thread sizes/types listed with the WilWood master cylinder.

The tube nute in your picture is 10mm x 1.0 bubble flare. The brake tubing itself is 3/16". Yeah, you will need to "T" off the fronts. The wilwood is 3/8-24.

The fuel lines are:
supply = 10mm --3/8"
return = 8mm --5/16"

The fuel fitting is 16mm x 1.5 I believe. I just cut mine and used these: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Summitracing sells these (as their own brand via Russells) for 5/16 and 3/8 to 6AN.

Tip: on your Wilwood master cylinder, take out the bleeders and switch them to the other side of the master, for more room at the head.

Well, youre just everywhere at once arent ya.

Hahaha, yeah. I'm trying to get this on the road by the 21st. So far all summer I've only had the evenings on the weekends to work on the car (I only come home for the weekends to work a second job), so I try and get all the ordering and figuring done during the week. Luckily I have a solid un-interupted week to work on the car before the "due date", but I would like to leave as much of that time open to troubleshooting and final details.

So, would this work for the fuel system? I'm trying to find a picture of the fuel line that comes through the firewall and to the fuel rail, I think it's a soft line though. So I would need another ERL adapter as I have shown on the diagram. All the stock fuel lines are in good shape, that's why I'm not hesitating about using them. Eventually I would like to put all AN everywhere, but I don't have the time or $ to do that right now.

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For the brake line I'll need a 3/8" to 10mmx1.0 adapter to go to the proportioning valve on the rear brakes, and then a 3/8" to 10mmx1.0 adapter to to a 10mmx1.0 T, not too bad I guess. I had a quick look on Summit this morning and didn't see anything like that immediately, but I'll have another better look.

I havent checked the part numbers but it all looks like a good approach!

Ok, I've got the Fuel fittings all figured out I think. Once all this is said and done I'll post all my parts and solutions, but I want to make sure they'll work first.

The brake lines are still giving me trouble. I need a T with a 3/8 24 thread and a concave seat that I can screw into the master cylinder, the other two branches need to have female sockets for a 3/8-24 bubble flare, right? All I seem to be able to find is AN fittings, which isn't what I want for this. I also don't know where to look for an adapter from 3/8-24 to 10mm/1.0 so that I can screw the rear brake bias valve into the master cylinder.

I think I just don't know the right terminology to find the parts I'm looking for, I'd love any help.

Thanks,
Luke

Luke, I got all the brake fittings and adapters from Pegasus racing. If you go thru my gallery and look at my brake lines it will give you an idea on all the adapters I used. I'm sure there's another way to do it though. The way I did it cost a small fortune... I can't find my receipts for the part numbers right now... If you need them let me know. I should be able to look up my order history on the pegasus site.

It's really a lot more simpole than buying a bunch of over priced fittings.............
Just go get you some new 3/16 x 24 flare nuts at the auto parts store and cut the lines and reflare them. $10 and your done..............

great, that was what I hoping to do. But what about the adapter to add the bias valve for the rear brakes. That is still 10mmx1.0, and it'll need to go into a 3/8"-24