Changing Position of Air Filter Intake

I'm considering changing the position of my air filter intake.[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Currently it is a 90* elbow towards the driver side. I'm considering removing the hood latch and going with a straight shot under the nose panel. Will this effect my HP Tuners tune? Any advice or options would be great.

any time you change anything with your air intake on a mass air flow car you change how the maf reads. however, its not nearly as bad with your style of maf, and being in a straight section the change will be fairly small.

Mine is similar but extends further over to be behind the headlight and I've added a heat shield above the frame rail up to the hood. This acts as an airbox with a supply hose forward to a duct replacing the fog light. I didn't go forward under the header as that's the location of my oil cooler. On a chassis dyno, my engine produced the same power it did on the engine dyno at the rebuilder's shop. So I conclude that this intake isn't hurting it at all.

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You can see that I cut out my hood latch and added pins. These work fine, and I'm yet to be "that guy" with the smashed windshield from his hood flying open on the track...

Rich

Rich your setup might be the route I go...just trying to create some room because I'm installing hydro brakes and need to install a PS pump. Thanks

This is the setup I'm running now. Wanted to keep the hood latch and lights. Never dynoed so don't know if I'm losing anything in the upper rpms. May have to click on the pic to see the whole thing.

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fanatic, nice setup. Where's your MAF?

Here's a couple more recent pics of mine. I've added a ps pump, a heat shield and a hose to supply fresh air from a high pressure area in the bumper. Note that there's a lot of room because I don't have a headlight bar or hood latch.

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I ran 3.5" all the way. 4" just wouldn't fit. I did have to notch and reweld one spot where the headlight arm rotates. The MAF is on the filter. I cut a section of the sheet metal out under the 8" long K&N air filter because it was to long.


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Thanks for all the pics guys, super helpful. After looking thru too many pics I think I'm going to be removing the hood latch and using AeroCatch hood pins.

fantic wrote:I ran 3.5" all the way. 4" just wouldn't fit. I did have to notch and reweld one spot where the headlight arm rotates. The MAF is on the filter. I cut a section of the sheet metal out under the 8" long K&N air filter because it was to long.


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Did you also remove the stop bar for the headlight?

I didn't remove anything on the head light. One problem I had was with this set up at high rpms I would get a knock sensor code. I would also notice the engine revs would fall off about 4500. I determined that the 3.5" pipe is not big enough for the amount of air the engine needs at high rpm's. I ran it with a 4" pipe and air filter briefly and revved so much better and no knock codes. But could not operate the headlights. I have since sold the car so I don't know what the new owner has done with it.

Ah, ok. Good to know. My original setup was with 3" pipe and it has the same issue. The air filter actually started to collapse in a bit.