Hydroboost mounting plate

I will be installing the booster Thursday night so I will update with pics then.

Here are the adapters I made to add power brakes back to my 951, using the Ford Mustang hydro-boost.
I put high strength captive head studs in my firewall plate, which are pressed in flush and don't rotate. I attached my firewall plate on its own, the HB and its stock mounting plate can be easily installed and removed from my firewall plate with the engine in place.
Also, I made an adapter and new push-rod so I could continue to use the stock 951 MC.

948 wrote:Here are the adapters I made to add power brakes back to my 951, using the Ford Mustang hydro-boost.
I put high strength captive head studs in my firewall plate, which are pressed in flush and don't rotate. I attached my firewall plate on its own, the HB and its stock mounting plate can be easily installed and removed from my firewall plate with the engine in place.
Also, I made an adapter and new push-rod so I could continue to use the stock 951 MC.

Nicely done!

I keep hearing about using the different mc's but what is the benefit?  Can you have those mc adapters made? Also could you take pictures of your lines and how you are running them?

zeusrotty wrote:I keep hearing about using the different mc's but what is the benefit?  Can you have those mc adapters made?  Also could you take pictures of your lines and how you are running them?

I think the only benefit is that you don't have to make an adapter plate and push-rod to reuse the stock MC   
Given the unique 951 MC piston sizes, presumably selected for the 944/Brembo combination, I felt that it was better to use the stock MC.
I designed all of these items in CAD so they can easily be duplicated; i am not personally interested in making and selling brake components because of the potential liability. I did some rough stress calcs to be sure the materials are suitable though.
Which lines were you referring to, the MC or HB?

I would like to see both. Can you shoot me the cad file on the plate? Or would you be willing to make one for me?

I would also be interested in the files for the adapter plates and especially
the adapter and pushrod for the stock master cylinder. If this is possible please let me know.
I don't think my post count will let me PM yet but I'll give you my email address.
I have a friend at a fab shop that owes me a favor and can easily reproduce them.

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=70

Looks like they have everything we need for ford hydroboost.

They have everything you need , except hose fittings that fit the ford hydro booster, hoses that fit our car (although they have the pieces) and and the adapter plates for our cars! I have talked with them about offering a kit for us, they weren't interested.

Huh... Ill bet if someone like me called them they could piece together something to spec. Eric, did you try any other companies? Also, quick question... Can I run the hose for the rack to the return line straight out and up by the firewall to the booster? Or do I really need to come to the front and up and back. It seems like it would be easier to just do it straight up.

I got the fittings for my Ford booster from Talon, but mine is from a 1996 Mustang, so it has SAE hardware, not metric.

If you go straight up you will need to make 100% sure that it is clear of any heat source.

Har, can you post some pictures of yours? I'd like to see an alternative to what we have been using. We have to buy and cut a brand new hose on every conversion because no one offers a fitting for one part of the booster.

Im on the phone with http://powerbrakeservice.net/ and they offer all of the fittings along with a line kit. The only thing is if you don't use the block on the side of the booster, you will have to drill and tap it. They are telling me they can do the 12mm inlet for the high pressure side of the rack. Eric you should give them a call. 714-330-5286

does anyone know the thread pitch on the 944 high pressure banjo bolt for the rack? Nevermind, for future reference the thread pitch on the banjo for the porsche rack is 1.5

Admin wrote:Har, can you post some pictures of yours? I'd like to see an alternative to what we have been using. We have to buy and cut a brand new hose on every conversion because no one offers a fitting for one part of the booster.

What do you need pictures of? I just used the ORB to -6AN fittings they have for the pressure lines and used the funky banjo fitting with a barb welded onto it for the return line. When I looked, Talon had a -6 adapter for the return on mine, but it looked like it was going to be a pain in the ass to use, so we just made our own.

zeusrotty wrote: The only thing is if you don't use the block on the side of the booster, you will have to drill and tap it.  

Mine does not have the block on the side of the booster. I was planning on taping it with a 1/8-27 to barb fitting since it is not under pressure. Also, without the block, the port going to the power steering is not 16mmx1.5 as in the diagram, it appears to be 18mmx1.5.

The source above makes a 3 line steel braided kit. Before you tap it speak with him if you are looking for quality braided lines. I think he is also buying a few of these 12 mm fittings for the rack.

These are the fittings i used to convert the Ford hydroboost high pressure fittings to AN. Available on Summit and Jegs.

-high pressure hydroboost fitting, from the pump: RUS-648080 18mm x 1.5 O-ring Seal to -6 AN $13.69
-high pressure hydroboost fitting, to the rack: RUS-670530 16mm x 1.5 to -6 AN $4.95

I bought a new Motorcraft hydroboost unit off RockAuto and it was also missing the aluminum block and banjo bolt on the side, i ended up just going to a local junk yard and taking one off.

Tech,
Did you have any problems with the RUS-670530 sealing? I have looked at them in the past , but never ordered that particular one.
Zeu,
I looked at their website and did not see any of the Mustang / Ford stuff.
If you remove the block from the side of the Mustang style booster there is almost no "meat" around the hole for the return line, I've looked and thought about trying to tap it. I personally would not try. Remember we are dealing with our brakes/lives with this stuff, no need to cut any corners on the braking system.

The tapping of that hole is common with that swap. I chose to keep the block and just go off of the existing barb.

Eric, about 1500 miles on the car so far; no leaks.

Techno Duck wrote:Eric, about 1500 miles on the car so far; no leaks.

I'm assuming you used the ford teflon brake line washer?

Tim, you will not need those teflon washers. The high pressure fittings to and from the hydroboost all seal with o-rings.

My only complaint with the hydroboost really so far is that the braking pressure to pedal height has moved much higher. What i mean is say 50% pedal force has moved to maybe 2" travel rather than 3" travel with the original vacuum booster / master cylinder.. those just being arbitrary numbers. As a result ive been finding it really difficult to heel / toe now. I cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum bar stock and placed it behind the pedal cover on my gas to bring it up a little. Still not enough to do it comfortably. Going to do the same with a piece of 1/2" bar stock next.

Can't you just adjust your brake pedal, ie, shorten the push rod?

Okay so hydroboost is in and I have run all of the brake lines. I am still waiting on the lines for the rack and the pump. The guy I recommended in an earlier thread is not only overpriced but he is also slow to ship.  I could have just had custom lines made locally... Any way you can see how I was able to re-use the mustang line on the second port and just rebend it slightly to mate up with the Porsche 3 way. I also re-ran new lines from the battery tray so that I could have more line, and straight better looking line coming out of the firewall.  Also installed the wilwood proportioning valve as you can see.  Does anyone know how to remove the knob from the prop valve so that I can use the remote adjuster?  That's the last step before I install the lines that aren't here yet and bleed the lines.  Almost to the finish line!! Does anyone have any ideas on coil relocation? I'm starting to think I should just drop the motor... I really need the room. Lol