944 S2 - LS3 & T56 Conversion

Ive lurked on the forums for sometime now but have never posted. Since I am knee deep in my build, what better time than now? Welcome to my build thread... I am here to make a monster, a German Frankenstein  Some may love it, some may hate it... I am going to enjoy the hell out of it and thats all that really matters! I hope you enjoy the ride too...

First and foremost... there is a huge wealth of information on this forum I have been using to thoroughly plan my build in all aspects I could think of. Thanks to everyone for contributing over the years, what youre doing is awesome! I will try to give back what I can to the community over the course of my build/ownership.

Prologue

I am not a new comer to LS engines or sports cars and I have several years of machine/fab shop experience. I am by no means a master machinist/fabricator. I have a "can do" attitude, I am not afraid to get dirty and I dont give up easily. Cars are my passion but have never been able to build a hot rod or do any serious custom work on vehicles.

I bought a Baltic Blue 89 944 S2 back in 2013 with the intent of one day doing a LS swap. Its my first foreign sports car... I learned to love it and really appreciate its handling/build quality despite being nearly 25 years old (on a vehicle platform even older). Originally I just bought it because I liked the lines/look of the car, its different and not commonly seen... it wasnt expensive and yes... rwd front engine LS swap sounded like a great plan in the future. I also knew that I wanted to get into autoX and road course stuff eventually as well

Fast forward to June 2014, S2 engine throws a rod on the way home from work, it was loud... it was nasty (did someone just drop a jar of pennies in my engine???) and I immediately shut it off buttttt the damage was done. I coasted it off the free way into a shopping center parking spot with just enough momentum. I already knew the engine was toast before I got out of the car...  and I already knew it was time for my LS swap. I was not ready to just jump into the swap full bore though... so I started planning.

Original plans were just a simple a 5.3, 5.7 aluminum block or possibly an LS2 or LY6. Nothing too radical, bolts-ons maybe a cam. I was going to keep the stock Porsche transmission assembly and just beef it up as much as possible to handle the power (trans reinforcement plate, shifter linkage, good mounts etc). I continued refining my conversion list containing all things needed for the swap, every nut and bolt... every dollar, every website link or local store.

Eventually I reached a point where I had a good idea of the cost but one of the big issues I had with the swap was doing one wheel burnouts in my 400hp sports car. I researched stock Porsche LSDs, 968 transmission, Audi LSDs conversion, Audi Trans conversions, aftermarket options like Guard etc etc. Overall the cheap options werent going to be strong enough for my needs and the better options were too expensive to still be stuck with a 5spd trans that wasnt ideal for the v8 RPMS/Powerband. What I kept hearing online was...  the Porsche setup can handle the power, but be careful on launches... and beating on it hard off the line.

I wanted more reliability... I wanted the T56 that I was accustomed to with LS power and I was going to make it happen. Sometime between the rod throwing and me deciding on the T56 swap... I also decided to get a 6.2l L92 engine. Funny how that works, go big or go home I guess. I found a good deal on a longblock that needed to be cleaned up and given a basic rebuild. Ill finally get to learn how rebuild a LS engine!

I had loosely gathered information on the T56 conversion from online anywhere I could. First validating that, yes it had been done and yes its awesome (given)  It surely wasnt going to be easy from researching what little I could find on it. I knew there would be some sheet metal work, custom axles and motor mount... etc. I had very little pictures or threads on the subject at this point... many were conjecture and talking about it but very little to help. I knew the C5 assembly well though and it dimensionally appeared very similar and compatible.

I continued researching and eventually came in contact with Sentronix who had already began the swap and had a thread with some information/pics. I PMed him and he has been a great help with pictures of his build, questions etc. Unfortunately he had to quit his conversion shortly after I began talking with him. Thank you for the help Sentronix...

I had many parts at this point, a C5 assembly off Ebay, L92 Escalade engine... but I had not began cutting. Then I found Kevin924Kevins thread on this forum... located [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Its been a huge help understanding some of the more complex issues and confirming many things I had researched and suspected. Pictures are worth a thousand words, Kevins thread helped me feel confident enough and educated enough to jump into the build finally and really get down to the nitty gritty. Thank you Kevin...

Currently the assembly is mocked into the vehicle, back seat area was cut to fit already and the torsion tube/trailing arms have been modified into a split configuration. I tore down the engine Friday night and brought it home from work. I planned on bolting the block to the trans assembly to mock it up as well for motor mount fabrication/dimensions and final destination of trans assembly but I didnt get the chance this weekend.

I have also been working on a 3D proportional model online. Its nothing fancy, but its been very helpful for me to visualize and plan the build. I just added the trailing arms/wheels last night but its not all proportional yet. The rest of the model is pretty accurate but by no means perfect. I will be editing and updating it as I go... its just tinkercad so dont expect anything crazy. Just go to tinkercad and search "Porsche 944" it should be the only one that comes up. Ill post a link after I have permission in 7 Days.


Pre-Swap

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07/08 Escalade L92 6.2l Engine w/VVT

Front Cover
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Rear Cover
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Driver Side
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Pass Side
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Disassembled Parts
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Crankshaft
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Block
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Main Bearings
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Pistons # 1, 3, 5, 7 Scuffing to the skirt, only on one side of these pistons. Pistons # 2, 4, 6, 8 were in good shape. I will be replacing these either with low mileage oems or Mahle forged drop ins for stock rod length. It will depend on bore condition and if it needs to go over size or not to clean up.
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Overall I am very happy with the condition of the engine. Its extremely dirty and its obvious that non synthetic was used due to the heavy varnishing inside the engine. Mileage on the engine is unknown and the person I bought it through has no history on what happened etc. The whole driver side of the engine was also much dirtier/grimier than the pass side... which also points to an issue only on one side. There were no spun rod bearings or damage to the pistons other than the scuffs on ONE side of each piston. While removing rod bearings... cylinders 2468 were torqued properly and cracked loose like the should. Driver side, all rods were snugged up... some pretty tight, but not to spec at all... they didnt crack loose like the other side... but the bearings werent spun, none of them... and visually looked in as good of shape as the driver side. Cylinder heads were not pulled, I cracked the seal on those myself. So my theory here is...

Oil issues due to dirty oil/filter/oil ports... engine starts knocking, they shut it down... get it inspected. Oil pan was removed to check the rod bearings. No visible spun bearings, but maybe they spotted the scuffing on the pistons... so they snug them back up and throw in a replacement engine? My only other gas would be a piston slap issue, but it seems odd to me for that to happen only on one side of the engine and one side of the pistons.

Feel free to chime in with your theory, I am all ears...

The plan right now is minimal machine work, I want to have the shop sonic clean it, inspection/check it for cracks... do cam bearings and thats probably it. Once I have it back from the machien shop Ill use my LS engine building books to do the mains/rods myself. Then slap the rest of it the beasts heart together.

Ideally I want to do the lightest hone possible to clean the cylinder up and reuse low mileage OEM pistons I can pickup for a deal. If I have to over size it though, I am going with a forged flat top that are made to drop in on the stock 6.098 rod length and no rebalance is needed. The stock crank and rods are going to be PLENTY strong enough for my goals with the engine.

Later on if I want to do a huge nasty Turbo setup ill go all out with a forged 416 stroker and pay for the works @ a good machine shop. I doubt ill ever want that much power in this small of a car though... 400-500 is going to be MORE than enough as it is.

Couple things about the engine...

I am keeping the VVT...  Its relatively new and most people will swear up and down you need to delete it... but they just arent used to working with it. The added torque curve/power from redline to high rpms is worth it. It isnt as easy to tune, which does provide an extra challenge... but nothing I am afraid of. The DOD/cylinder deactivation is something that I would never keep on a performance engine... but luckily this year L92 doesnt have it.

DBW... its not as easy to do as the DBC but I prefer the DBW feel. There is nothing wrong with cable, but in my opinion DBW is superior. Once you port the TB/intake setup and tune it, any lag that was present is gone.

Engine
L92 6.2L Long Block (L92 Water Pump and extra VVT Cover)

C5 T56 Transmission
1997 C5 T56 (MM6) 37k Miles Assembly wMGW Shifter w/Knob & Spec Clutch
C5 3.42 GETRAG Differential - June Young Brooklyn NY/CRAIGSLIST
C5 Bellhousing - Ebay
1-1/2 Square Tubing .250 Wall (24ft) - Local
T56 Transmission Crossmember - Custom
Having a T56 to go with your V8... PRICELESS!!!

Engine Mount/Crossmember
TPC LSX Motor Mounts
Crossmember Bolts M12-1.5x100mm Grade 10.9 (4)
1/2" Crossmember Spacers

Torsion Bar Delete/Rear Coilover Suspension
Koni 30-5325 (2)
Lower Shock Mount Adapter
FloFlex Rear Lower Body Mount and Inner Control Arm Bushing
Allstar ALL64147 Sleeve Kit (2)
Hypercoil 2.5" x 10" 450lb Coil Springs
Daystar 911 Spring Plate PolyGraphite Bushings
Upper Shock Hardware Grade 8 - 1/2"-13x5in Hex Bolts & Nuts/Washers
Control Arm/Suspension Crossmember
Solid Upper Rear Suspension Mounts

Custom Axle Shafts
C5 Z06 Axles NEW
SwayAway 28 Spline Axles
930 CV Joint (2)
C5 Differential Seals
930 CV Boot Kit (2)
930 CV Bolts (12)
100mm to 108mm Outer CV Adapters
CV Adapter Bolts (12)

Engine Rebuild Parts
Comp Cams 251 Freeze Plug Kit - Summit
GM Lifter Trays (x4) GM# 12595365
Camshaft Gear/Phaser/Bolt and Thermostat Housing
Pilot Bearing GM # 14061685
Barbell Plug - GM# 12573460(x1)
LS3/L92 Head Gaskets 4.065" & Head Bolts
Block Machine Shop Work (Clean, Inspection, Hone & Cam Bearing Install)
DSS Racing 1830CSX-4070 - LS3, 4.070 Bore, 3.622 Stroke, 6.098 Rod
Summit LSx Rocker Trunion Bearing Kit
Melling 10296
LS7 Lifters GM# 12499225
Mahle 4075MS Piston Rings 4.070
Clevite P Main Bearings CLE-MS2199P
Bolts for Engine Assembly
Durabond CHP23 Camshaft Bearings
Fel-Pro Timing Cover Kit, Water Pump Gaskets & Oil Pump O-Rings # TCS45993
LS3 Valve Stem Seals
Oil Pan Gasket GM# 12612350
Clevite P Rod Bearings CLE-CB663P
Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal Set # BS40640
LS2/LS3 Timing Chain Dampener 12588670

Exhaust
Mid Pipe and Exhaust Piping
LS1 Block Hugger Headers
O2 Sensor Bungs M18x1.5

Engine Oil System
Moroso 20142 LSx Oil Pan
Moroso 38541 Oil Pan Stud Kit
Mr. Gasket LS2/LS3 Oil Dipstick
WIX 51522 Oil Filter
Modify Pickup and Windage Tray

Accessory/Serpentine Parts
FBody Starter, Alternator, AC, PS Pump w/brackets & bolts
Balancer Pulley Bolt GM# 12557840
L92 Truck VVT Water Pump (Modified Inlet)
LY6/L92/L99 Crank Pulley
3/4" Aluminum Spacers for Alternator and Power Steering Brackets
Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Pulleys

Coolant/Heater System
944 S2/Turbo Radiator
160 SLP Thermostat
Heater Hoses - Dayco 80414 & Dayco 80405
Radiator Hoses Dayco E71317/E71751 & D71500
Four Seasons 74800 Heater Control Valve

Intake Manifold/TB/CAI
LS3 Intake Manfiold & LS3 Throttle Body
CAI 4" Pipe, Connectors and Filter
PCV/EVAP Hose

Engine Control and Ignition System
GM Wiring Harness
E38 ECM w/Escalade Base Calibration
LS2/LS3 Coil Packs and Bracket
Fuel/Coil Pack Harness
DBW Escalade Pedal = APS265
Front O2 Sensors
LS3 MAF (MAF0034/AFH70M-43)
LS3 Low Mileage Plug Wires
TR55 Spark Plugs
LS3 MAP Sensor GM# 12591290


Electrical Supplies
GT150/GT280 Release/Pick Tools
AllDataDIY Subscriptions
6 Pin DBW Throttle Connector
VVT Connector Delphi #13519051 (Harness Side) & #13519053 (Cover Side) GM#12607409
SA-1000 Fuse/Relay Standalone Kit - Relays, Fuses, Wire, OBD2 Connector
Weatherpack Crimper
Tape/Vinyl Wrap, Heat Shrink, Wire Loom, Metri-Pack 150 and 280 Pins
TXL WIRE, 16 (1.3mm) 18 (0.82mm) 20 (0.51mm) and 22 (0.35mm)
Escalade Accelerator Pedal Connector
12047938 = Female Regular LSx Coil Harness Connector for Engine Harness and terminals/seals
8 EV6 Injector Connectors 15419715 and terminals/seals
8 ea #15439568 & #15423278 & Terminals/Seals LS2/LS3 Coil Pack Connectors.
Reuse 3 Pin Map Sensor Connector from Harness - (S/C Barometric Pressure Sensor Connector)
Reuse 5 Pin MAF Sensor Connector from Harness

Porsche VDO
REUSE - Porsche Oil Pressure Sender VDO360009
VDO 323-095 Temp Sender & M12x1.5 to 1/8" NPT Adapter
M16x1.5 to 1/8" NPT Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter

Fuel System
LS2 Injectors & Fuel Rail
C5 Fuel Filter - Microgard 33737
12" Fuel Line Repair Pipe w/Push on flares - NAPA BK 7304931
(2) 3/8 Hard Line Compression Fittings & (1) 5/16 Hard Line Compression Fittings
Fuel Line and Fuel Rail Adapter

Clutch/Hydraulics/Shifter
T56 Remote Bleeder 48"Speed Bleeder
Flywheel and Pressure Plate Bolts  - 11569956 (x6) and 12561465 (x6)
Stage 3 Spec Clutch & MGW Short Shifter
GTO Slave Cylinder - # 900058
SS Clutch Line - Russell 641001 -4AN adapter for Slave & -4AN to 3/8-24  Banjo for Master
Modify Clutch Pedal Clevis and MC Pushrod Clearance

Brakes & Power Steering
New Pads, Caliper Rebuild Kit & Stainless Braided Brake Lines
99-04 Ford Mustang Hydroboost Setup & Custom Lines
Custom Lines from GM Reservoir to Rack and from rack to Pump
Firewall Reinforcement Plate/Hydroboost Mounting plate
Hydroboost 944 MC Adapter Block & Pushrod

Suspension/Handling
MOMO Wheel and Hub
Weltmeister Front Control Arm Bushing Set PB-1030
8oz Supension Bushing Grease
MOMO Horn Retaining Ring

Fluids
AMSOIL Water Wetter
Brake Fluid (Two Large Bottles)
Brake In Oil
10w30 Mobil 1 Oil 5QT Jug (2)
2 Qts 75W90 and 4oz LSD Additive
Dexron III (4 Quarts)
Distilled Water (4Gal)

Supplies
Brake Cleaner
Block Assembly Supplies
Hose Clamps
Plasti-Gage x3
Aviation Gasket Sealant

Tools
Piston Ring Filer
Flywheel Lock
4.060" Tapered Ring Compressor SME-904060
Valve Spring Tool
Torque Angle Gauge
Feeler Gauges, Verniers Calipers , Bore Gauge & Micrometers

To get everyone up to speed on what I have done already here are some more pictures.

Supported on Jackstands
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Stripped most of the Interior First
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Adios Mr. 3.0 S2 Engine... sorry about the catastrophic heart failure. You have my respect though and thats not easily gained being a 4 cylinder. Truly an amazing engine for its time...
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Comparing Old vs New Trans Assembly
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Time for Surgery
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Modified Torsion Tube/Trailing Arms
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Coilovers
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That should bring everyone up to speed.

Right now my current step of the build will progress something like this.

• Mount engine block w/pan to trans assembly for mock up
  
• Cut hole in trans tunnel for shifter and mock fit
  
• Mock Fit Crossmember w/power steering rack for Oil pan/crossmember modification
  
• Take dimensions, rough out designs for engine mounts (already have the setback plates)
  
• Begin Templates for trans mount, seat support/structural brace and engine mounts
  
• Finalize designs, modify templates if necessary to refine fitement etc
  
• Order Materials
  
• Fabricate all custom parts for drivetrain to mount in the vehicle... improvise as necessary
  
• Mount entire assembly back in the vehicle... verify fitment, make final adjustments if needed
  
• Take Final measurements for customs axles and finalize designs.
  
• Build axles and test fit... modify if necessary
  
• Remove entire assembly, send engine block to the machine shop to begin rebuild process
  
• Clean and prep trans assembly for final install
  
• Rebuild Engine
  
• Mount Entire Drivetrain in the Vehicle
  

I am just taking it one step at a time nice and slow... its nothing that can be rushed. Once I can turn the crankshaft and see the wheel hubs turn in gear... its all down hill from there. Still going to be a TON to do... but at that point its normal things that everyone does with their conversion.

Ill keep everyone updated as time allows... and you can count on more pictures!

Nice Job!

Here are pictures of the templates, I havent finished them... consider this a rough draft. I didnt take a ton of time with them. Its giving me a good idea of exactly what is needed though and showing some of the tight spaces up near the gas tank that you have to work around. They will be completely re made before I do the final version out of metal. I want to add some cross supports from the cradle to the upper support and somehow integrate the upper support into the two gas tank bolt holes for extra mounting points other than outer points on the frame. The seat support will be double up and much beefier than it appears right now.

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Looking forward to seeing how the rear trans support is going to come out.

I am doing the exact same swap in my 83' 944 except for iron block LM7 with turbo charger.

Good luck with the build it is looking awesome!

Glad to see another 6 speed getrag going into one of these 948's.
I am curious what your outer CV adapters look like, or have you machined them yet?
Kevin sent me pics of the tapered 930 CV adapters and that's what would be needed for an inexpensive 930 axle drop in because those factory inner trilobe races on the differential are 28 splined and any 930 axle slips right in. I cut a few for Dinsdale's LS builds and now our V12 builds.
In the 928 I machined billet mounts that hang poly isolators that attach at top of differential.

I used 2"x2" .1875 wall steel tubing for the x-member and machined a recessed area for the billet mount to bolt into....

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xschop wrote:Glad to see another 6 speed getrag going into one of these 948's.
I am curious what your outer CV adapters look like, or have you machined them yet?
Kevin sent me pics of the tapered 930 CV adapters and that's what would be needed for an inexpensive 930 axle drop in because those factory inner trilobe races on the differential are 28 splined and any 930 axle slips right in. I cut a few for Dinsdale's LS builds and now our V12 builds.
In the 928 I machined billet mounts that hang poly isolators that attach at top of differential.

I have not machined the outer CV adapters, but they will be the same tapered ones that Kevin and Sentronix were planning on using. Aaron on GrabCad has a 3d model I would like to get the dimensions from... but I really dont need the dimensions. Its pretty self explanatory I just need to work on rough dimensions for a 2d cad file. I am providing the dimensions and CAD stuff to my Father who is a mechanical engineer... and a very experienced machinist/fabricator. He will get it all worked up on CAD and help with the more difficult aspects. I will do as much as I can with my own hands... but I like having his guidance. Hes knows material strength and design work far better than I probably ever will.

As for the the inner side, yes I am going to use the stock C5 trilobe CVs. I was trying to confirm if the 28 spline profile was the same as the VW... it appeared to be but I dont have 930 VW axles to verify I was just going on faith. What I do know is... the inner CV has two C Clips/retaining rings on the actual tri lobe that floats inside of the trilobe housing. One on the very end of the splines and one just below the tri lobe... this makes it so the axle doesnt actually float or move inside the tri lobe... the tri lobe moves inside the housing (I am sure you already knew this though). So I will need to machine those grooves on the 930 axles I buy.

Plan B for the inner CV iss to use Empi 091 bus to 930 drive flanges which are 40 spline, although I believe too short to mount directly into the C5 differential (possibly different spline too). Theoretically you could chop off the female 40 spline shaft on the C5 Inner trilobe though... machine the drive flange out to accept that splined shaft. Do an interference fit, weld it in solid... probably add material in certain areas for more strength and then machine it on the lathe to run true. This would require two more 930 GKN CVs though, added machine work and heat treating if you wanted it to actually survive. If I dont have to spend more money and complicate the build anymore than it already is to accomplish my task, I dont plan on it.

I have taken dimensions at full compression of suspension/maximum plunge depth for the axles. It was about 19" from the inner trilobe CV to the outer 944 stub. I need to do some work on drawings for the axles before I can determine my final axle length. What I am trying to do is make sure the axle I buy is an off the shelf length that fits perfectly with the correct plunge needed. To do this... I will have to get everything on CAD and then adjust the outer CV adapter width/depth in the drawing to make the axle length needed an off the shelf empi length like...  15-5/8", 16-1/4" or 16-3/4".

As for your mount, that rocks! My initial plan was to utilize those exact two mounting holes for the diff to the transmission case. It definitely would be far easier to just mount it at the top of the diff and not screw around with going under it. I just didnt know if that area was strong enough to take all the abuse I am going to throw at it and not crack the housing/diff case eventually. Thats why I was trying to mount it at the factory location designed to take the load.

If that mount you made has worked in other vehicles... and not caused any issue with damage to the trans/diff case then its surely the way to go for simplicity sake. Ill be working on my templates again this weekend, looks like I should give that top mount a try. I know youve done your homework and I trust your knowledge/experience...  if you say its good, I believe you. I appreciate you sharing that with me... should make things muchhhh easier and shed some weight from the mount.

P.S. I want to see that v12 build

i can confirm that the vw 28 spline is in fact the same as the gm. i just completed a project a few months ago for the sema show that used a corvette transaxle with our specially built sidedrive setup. long story short, it uses a porsche 930 output flange and we had to adapt it back to a gm outer. we used automatic c5 outer axle ends in the outer hubs with empi 28 spline axle shafts.

as an alternative, [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] makes axles for the c5/c6 corvette that utilize 930 joints. it uses a flange that goes into the diff that converts it to a 930 style joint.

I ground a carbide part-off insert to fit the width of the C5 C-rings.... Then cut the axle grooves 31.2mm between them to hold the factory tri-lobes....
Simple solution.
I compared the top area and 2ea 10mm bolts on the mount I designed and the factory 2 bolt mount areas at the back and decided to go top mount because its perfect for the 928 install. I could see you making a top mount that attaches to the seat area arch mock up in your pics. Maybe even attach at 4 bolts on trans/ torque tube interface.
We will debut the first V12 6-speed soon and then start on the twin. Forged rods are on our radar so we can safely put some boost to them.
Definitely keep us posted on those axle dims as we'll eventually build one too with some extra cylinders of course.

This was our 1st install of the six speed. The first mount went underneath the trans but still only bolted to 2ea 10mm bolts on each side with a Chevy poly trans bushing in between. I test drove the first one that was mated to a supercharged 928 engine. Many miles on that one already...

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Welcome. Great progress, love that color blue.

Thanks 948, I really like the blue as well... I am a real stickler when it comes to the color of a car. I specifically looked for a blue car when I was searching. I woulda settled on black or something else not too flashy. The red was absolutely NOT happening...

I havent made much progress lately, played with the template desings a little bit but nothing post/picture worthy yet. I have been without a car since June trying to tough it out to get the build done asap. I finally came to my senses and picked up a daily beater. It will also be a big help for taking parts to/from the machine shop for the build.

Looking forward to posting up some more progress on the build soon...

dead post no more news that t56 bolted in

 I havent been posting because progress has been slow and I have had little time/budget to devote to it the build right now. Never fear though... I am not one to give up and it will be finished one day. Right now I am working on getting it moved to a devoted storage location with concrete floor and electricity.

Most of what I have been doing is design work, 3D printing full size pieces and then test fitting.

Here is what I have accomplished since last post...

• Transmission Tunnel has been further modified to allow for the offset shiter and shifter linkage. MGW C5 shifter installed... verified working and damn does that shifter feel amazing!!! May need additional clearance for linkage depending on final height of the torque tube in the trans tunnel.
  

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• Engine Block has been bolted to the trans assembly. Cylinder heads, valve covers and intake manifold bolt on for mock fitting. Crossmember bolted in, and spacers made to replicate Moroso oil pan thickness of 1-13/16" to mock for fit engine height, crossmember spacers and hood clearance. Have also decided to go with Moroso 20142 Road Race pan instead of 20140. Same dimensions, comes with diamond baffle system, removable oil filter block/remote filter block. Once I have the pan, I will modify it and verify final fitment.
  

• Designed & Fabricated Tubular Transmission Crossmember Mount/Brace - Still needs holes drilled for final placement... and bottom mounting plate fabricated w/isolator mounts. Test Fitted, confirmed it will fit but did not mount to the frame rails. Need to finish engine mounts and have engine bolted into final location to determine exact location for the transmission mount holes. Where the original crossmember was located I will drill 2 holes through each frame rail... up into the trunk/hatch area. I will then use all thread and backer plates to sandwich the new crossmember securely to the frame rails in the same location as the original crossmember.
  

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• Designed, 3D printed and test fit ABS compatible 100mm to 108mm CV adapters. Once engine and transmission are mounted solid... I can move forward with determining final axle size. Ideally I want both axles to be the same length... and have the CV adapters different heights to counter the 1-2" offset in the drivetrain towards the pass side. Although I am not opposed to ordering the 930 axles with the 3" long splines on both ends... then cutting one shorter and leaving the other longer to make up the offset length. I will cross that bridge when I get to it and determine which route I will take then.
  

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• Designed, 3D printed and test fit Upper Torsion Tube Solid Mount. I am taking all the slop out of the original torsion tube mounts and bushings. The Upper mount sags a ton ever since I cut the torsion bar into two trailing arms. This single solid mount... completely fixed the trailing arm sagging and brought everything back close to the original geometry. Full solid sprint plate bushings, inner A arm bushing/pivot and lower body mounts will also be installed before making.
  

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• Designed Suspension Cradle/Brace, not final version... and it still will need major design changes. It will progress more after the drivetrain and suspension are mounted solid. The Suspension Cradle/Brace will tie the two independent A Arms back together and solidly mount both torsion tubes to the beefed up seat brace area. Much like the new trans crossmember... I am going to be sandwiching the torsion tube/a-arms through existing seat brace and reinforced suspension cradle/brace with all thread and backer plates or something similar.
  

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Reserved...

This is an entraining build. Please keep it coming.
Would you be willing to sell some of this transmission swap parts or drawings?

email me please. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

SITH944 wrote:This is an entraining build. Please keep it coming.
Would you be willing to sell some of this transmission swap parts or drawings?

email me please. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

One day I may consider that but I want to prove the parts I am fabricating work well first. Once its all been fleshed out and I am confident in the design I would then be ok with sharing it.

Ill keep posting updates though...

Trans Crossmember is getting holes drilled in it and some finishing touches. I have also decided to bite the bullet and buy TPC Motor Mounts/Uprights sometime very soon.

I just dont have the time to fabricate them and I need to get the drive train mounted ASAP so I can work on the suspension modifications.

I am trying to move the car to an indoor storage with electricity but I want to be able to roll it onto a flat bed... which cant happen until the suspension and wheels can go back on it.

I love the build and it looks like we are both going the same route with the T56 setup. I am very curious with how your Transmission mount turned out so please post pictures once you get it installed.

I am going to try and install a complete rear subframe from an 04 Z06 only thing I am missing now is the rear diff.

Did you have to widen the torque tube channel at all to make the vette torque tube fit? I have heard some years you don't have to but other years you do. I have an 83' and it looks like a tight fit.

Good luck with the build!

Small Update, just ordered my TPC LSx Motor Mounts...  


I will post extensive pictures of the transmission mount in the future. The transmission tunnel on mine was JUST big enough to raise the torque tube all the way up into the tunnel. I had to remove the old brackets for the exhaust heat shields to allow more room in the tunnel... and I also cut off those aluminum tabs on the C5 Torque tube. Its a snug fit after doing this... and visibly you can see that it does bow the tunnel just a little bit. The shifter linkage is pretty close to the top of the trans tunnel.

So there are two plans of action... leave it, deal with the vibrations/noise transferring through and deaden it as best as possible to avoid having to widen the entire trans tunnel. Plan B is cutting the top off the tunnel, widening it and welding sheet metal back in. I am trying to avoid plan B... but if it needs to be done I am going to bite the bullet and do it right.


As for installing the complete rear subframe/cradle... it has been done by admin I believe. He used the complete suspension, upper and lower control arms... wheel hubs etc. He completely eliminated the Porsche suspension. There is a big thread that Admin had going which had all the pictures in it... I didnt come across the thread til after I already started my build.

A few things to note about what I saw in his thread though.

- He deleted the gas tank I believe, and relocated it to the trunk/hatch I assume. The reason for deleting the gas tank appeared to be for a large tubular frame/mount that the corvette suspension cradle bolted at the correct location.

- Frame rails were notched to retain the top control arms. So it did have upper and lower control arms.

- I had read in one place randomly here they were having issues getting the geometry and suspension all dialed in correctly. I am not sure if they were talking about Admins car or someone elses... but they were talking about a 944 that had the full C5 rear suspension installed. Either way the C5 suspension is superior to the 944 and I see no reason why it couldnt be dialed in to work well with the 944... it will probably require some trial and error though.

New TPC Motor Mounts Installed! They fit great... I used some temporary spacers for the crossmember.

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In order to mount the engine the driveline had to be moved back about 2". Here is where everything sits with the new mounts. Its a perfect fit... and I couldnt be happier. The shifter location being moved back 2" also helped improve the shifter location. Its dead perfect, with the offset towards the driver and being farther back... I dont have to reach forward its right where my hand is with my elbow still tucked at my side. I also was able to verify that I dont need to widen then tunnel, there is enough clearance at the top for the shifter linkage without rubbing... and everything else in the tunnel is fine. It does touch the sides a bit, but I will probably attempt to hammer in those areas if needed for a little extra clearance and then put some good sound deadening in that area.

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The output on the differential and the control arms/axle stubs line up even better now as well. The only issue now is the differential is really tight on the passenger side. So tight that the bolts on the differential cover actually rub and flex the gas tank about 1/4 inch. Its minor, but I will need to look into solutions for clearance there later on. I am hoping I can use a heat gun and remold the gas tank and reinforce it in that area if needed or make some type of metal protective plate. If I was in a wreck and the drivetrain got shifted backwards, ide like to know there is a metal plate there to deflect the drivetrain instead of letting it just puncture the tank easily.

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I also received my racers edge rear lower shock adapters and rear poly/delrin bushings. I test fit my coilovers and they fit perfect, no pics of those yet. I picked up a set of the polygraphite daystar 911 rear spring plate bushings. They were only $50 so I couldnt pass it up. I read that you can modify the 911 delrin/polygraphite spring plate bushings to be used in the 944 setup. One bushing on each side has to be cut in half.

Ill post up another update with pictures of the suspension reassembly and hopefully the trans mount which I havent picked up to test fit yet. I do know that moving the driveline back 2" might mean redesigning the trans mount now... but it "appears" like there might be just enough room for it.

Keep It Coming!!!!