New convert under way

Yes it is. The realization of many years of work has really got me excited to see my vision come to fruition.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Touch Down.

You may need longer shock springs. Looks maxed out and you don't have all the weight on the rear yet.

Looking great! Are your structural mods fully welded or tacked in at this point?

Hello first shocks have not been adjusted to drop the car. That's tonight's project. My bottom of rockers are sitting just about 9.5 in. Of the floor. Going to drop down to some were between 4 and 5 inches. Structural is tacked in place. Balance if my cage should be at the boarder. Waiting for my gas tank to hit the boarder then I will grab all at once. Valve covers should be there already. I have had trouble posting pics?? Anyways I will keep trying.

O[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
You can see the nose is a little high right now.

Ah ok. That makes sense. The first pic of the back of the car doesn't really show the ride height. Carry on.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
So not familiar with inverted shocks. How much lower can this go?

Ideally, you want the shock adjusted so that it's in the center of it's travel while fully weighted. This gives the same amount of travel in both directions while driving over bumps and dips.

Ok. I have lowered the car but will waite for full weight to adjust properly.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Here is my intake set up.

That'll work good. Straight is the best intake. I would prefer a little more tube between the filter and MAF, but it'll be fine.

That may happen. Once we finalize the front bumper area height the filter could change. It will stay straight but the plan is a direct opening in the nose and fully shielded from the rad discharge. Work in progress should not change much.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Hydro boost / clutch plate ready.

That's much smaller than the mustang hydroboost, but the mustang has everything in one unit.
I'm sure you know this, but you can open the nipple on the brake fluid reservoir and run a hose from that to the clutch master cylinder.

I was going to ask that. Just to confirm.

kevin924kevin wrote:I was going to ask that. Just to confirm.

Confirmed

Thank you. Much appreciated.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Coolant lines installed to rad.

So my plan now is I will bend aluminum tube to match the design I have layed out and just have the rubber hose at rad and water pump.

I think you are going to have a very hard time bleeding the air out with the hoses like that. I feel you need the left one to be mounted where the tubing is up high. I always route the upper hose from the water pump to the left upper radiator nipple. And the hose from the thermostat goes to the lower right nipple.

Morning I have routed my lines wrong? I will put a burp point in the heater lines to bleed.

Yes, they are routed wrong. The top nipple on the water pump goes to the top left nipple on your radiator. It should be built in a way that is stays high in the engine compartment. The nipple on the thermostat needs to go to the bottom right radiator nipple. This is the correct flow for an LS. You need to install a coolant reservoir like originally came on the 924-944. This will need to be your highest point in the cooling system. I can't tell from your pic if the radiator has a 5/8" nipple for the coolant reservoir to attach to. It will need this to fill the cooling system. There should be a small 5/16" coolant pipe under the front of the intake. This needs to go to the reservoir as well, so that the air will bleed from the heads.


This pic shows what needs to be done.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]