HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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SPEC Clutch

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SPEC Clutch

Post  Oso on Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:25 pm

I have a 95 lt1 with the QTBH and was wondering if anyone knows if [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] fits or if its the best choice for a street vehicle.
Recommendations appreciated.
Thanks.

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  modenas on Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:54 pm

is this a 951 or 95 lt1 engine? jw. the clutch and pilot bearing wont work. there arent 23 spline clutch and the bearing is too thick
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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  Admin on Wed Dec 23, 2009 8:23 pm

Only the pressure plate will work on your motor. You would need to get them to include the mopar disk in the kit. I am not sure if the throw out bearing will work either. With that bearing you have to use a clutch slave cylinder and an arm setup. I don't know if there is enough room around the QT bell housing and fire wall to fit all that. Most people are using the hydraulic throw out bearing, which means your paying for another bearing that you can not use. The pilot bearing will not work either. The ID is the wrong size.
Just buy the parts one at a time and don't try to get a "clutch kit" It won't work out. I know this for a fact, this is what I do for a living.

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Spec Clutch conversion for LT1

Post  kelleysj on Fri Apr 30, 2010 3:15 am

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I found this in the SPEC Clutch conversion area this should work on a 96 LT1 with C5 bellhousing right? That is what how im understanding it anyway. From what i have read the SPEC clutch provides a smoother shift any info would be greatly appreciated Im learning as i go.
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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  gt1scca on Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:11 am

Correct.
I am a SPEC dealer now, and can get better prices than what you see there, FYI.

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  turbobob924 on Fri Apr 30, 2010 1:19 pm

OK I'll bite....

How much?
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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  speedracing944 on Fri Apr 30, 2010 7:51 pm

Greg,

Can you provide the correct Aluminum flywheel with the appropriate stage 2+ clutch?

What are the take-up characteristics of the clutch? Is it still smooth or more of an on/ off situation?

What would the pedal effort be like?

Speedy:)

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  gt1scca on Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:38 pm

Yes, no problem.

From SPEC:

Stage 2

Types of Driving:
Street, Drag, Pulling, Autocross

Features segmented or full faced pure Kevlar disc with steel backing. This lining features excellent drivability like the stage 1, but offers slightly longer life and higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Best for street, drag, pulling and autocross.


Stage 2+

Types of Driving:
Street, Drag, Pulling, Autocross

Features a multi-friction disc in a full faced configuration with carbon semi-metallic on one side and Kevlar on the other. Bridging the gap between stage 2 and stage 3, the 2+ offers drivability and engagement quality characteristic of the stage 2, but with a 15-20% higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift.


As far as pedal effort, I am not sure. I do know that the diaphragm style pressure plates require much less effort than other types, i.e. long style or borg & beck. The Stage 2 or 2+ with an Aluminum flywheel should be more than adequate for the horsepower and torque of even a modified LS3.

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  Arthropraxis on Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:55 pm

I already have a flywheel and pressure plate. Can I get a disc only and reuse these? This is for a stock LS1 motor.
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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  gt1scca on Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:31 pm

Stock GM?
If so, I'll have to contact SPEC Monday.

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  Arthropraxis on Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:58 pm

I mean stock as in no motor upgrades. It is the motor I will be using for my conversion. Is it ok to reuse the original LS1 flywheel or pressure plate?
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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  gt1scca on Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:14 pm

I just found this:

from David @ Spec:
David @ SPEC wrote:I like the stage 2 regardless of how stock your engine may remain. The Stage 2 is very smooth/easy to drive, wears very well and will take the abuses of 550+ engine tq should you ever change your mind. I recommend lighter parts regardless of power level, as you will benefit from ‘free’ hp gains, throttle response and the lighter parts are easier on the driveline components and engine internals. Most 944/LS1 simply use the billet aluminum flywheel and stage 2 clutch. We also offer a stock appearing aluminum pressure plate option that makes the pressure plate rebuildable like the flywheel and drops 8lbs from the assembly. Or, if you need this to be a budget build, simply use our billet steel flywheel and standard Stage 2 clutch.

There are a couple of issues with LS1 conversions that must be considered. We have been building units for LS's since 1997. Do NOT mix original equipment LS pressure plate and flywheel components without having the set balanced. LS clutch and flywheels were balanced ONLY AS AN ASSEMBLY. The individual components are not balanced. Separating them creates an imbalance. Also, LS1/6 flywheels are deemed throw-away units by GM and Luk. They are not meant to be machined. If a used oe setup is used, 2 issues must be addressed. Due to lack of throw in the LS hydraulics, dropping the stackup by more than .015 can cause initial release issues. Secondly, the OE LS flywheel castings are porous. We have seen pitting just .010 under the surface. They also come new with a slight dish, so clutch seating, particularly with a performance clutch, takes longer if at all. In review, if a used factory flywheel setup is utilized, be sure the surface is like new, or it is worth purchasing a nice billet aftermarket. You'll spend that money fixing the OE unit or replacing it in the near future. Our billet steel flywheels are actually manufactured slightly thicker, so they can be machined multiple times without worrying about release. And our billet aluminum units are infinitely rebuildable, having replaceable steel friciton surfaces.

If the flywheel you have (stock GM) does not need machining, a Stage 1 disc should be more than adequate for a stock LS1. I'll verify with David concerning the flywheel Monday, Tim.

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Re: SPEC Clutch

Post  Arthropraxis on Sat May 01, 2010 7:17 am

Thanks, I remember reading some of that now. There was some discussion as to what was really necessary. The motor I have only has 55k miles.
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