Garage queens

I have 2 944s I bought the blue 87s which be receiving the conversion. The plan is a street car project. A 2000 Trans Am donated the motor and accessories. The motor has 62k so I will wait to rebuild and keep cost down. Currently working on getting the motor out. The bolts are all loose just need to start removing the electrical. The car has turbo brakes and I plan to use hydro boost. I have been reading a lot of the posts and will be needing all of them. I will update my project as I go.

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This one is a good running, good shape and wanted to leave it alone.
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Welcome! Always good to see another conversion underway. Can you re-post your pic? It just shows your local path.

With 62k miles on the engine I wouldn't consider a rebuild for just a street cruiser. That engine is going to be fine. Eric is using a used engine for my conversion. No worries!

Removing the motor wasnt too bad, a lot of up and down being by my self. I lowered the motor to the floor and the 21 inches in height from the book was wrong so i lifted the car with the hoist and pulled the motor out the wheel well.
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I measured the torque tube to the end of the shaft and it is 5.626"

This is what I have on the pilot bearing install. The crank end was 15mm deep and the cup and bearing were 25mm total so the cup sticks out 10mm.
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The cross member was trimmed a little for clearance. the oil pan needed a rubber mallet on the inside of the pan to clear the tray.
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Sorry no fly wheel bolts , they have become slow to get because there metric
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Engine is installed.
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How it started
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And the purpose for my test fit. Adjusting the shaft was not so hard. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Next thing is to pull it all out!

Looks great! Keep up the good work.

what happens with side of the oil filter housing?


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You screw on the oil block off plate from the factory pan. Make sure you use a new gasket as well.
What part did you have to move with a rubber mallet?
I test fit/build these pans on a LS1 motor with a full windage tray in place as well as I build them without a gasket in place so they will have a little more room once the are installed on the motor permanently.

Oil filter side, I moved back and forth enough to make a mark just in front of pen.
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The extended bolts that were sent for the cross member are the wrong size, the black which were sent are 1.75 and the silver ( i only have two so far) are 1.50 thread pitch.
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Little things really kinda like the block off plate walking away with the stock oil pan I sold.

Thanks for the heads up on the bolts, I went and checked my inventory and the wrong parts were sent to me. I should have the new bolts coming in tomorrow, I'll get a set to you ASAP!

I went to a Chevy dealer and found Night race blue metallic from a new corvette, its darker than the Porsche blue. Complete color changes are harder so I wanted to keep this part simple. All paint is base coat clear coat.
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Since my last post. I had the motor rebuilt and the heads done, new valve train and cam from EPS.
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A new double roller chain. New SLP oil pump this pump is made to be in front of the double chain no shims
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The oil pick up tube mount did touch the cam cover
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Less than 2 minutes grinding to correct
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After
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The back side of the oil pump
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The LS6 PCV valley cover
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I had the bolt holes line board up 1/2 inch and then a plate welded in on all four sides. They opened 1mm from welding but that can't be all too bad because they did not just slide in being raised.  Longer bolts will be needed.  The rear A arm spacers will not  be installed.
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Clearenced in the rear for the A arm because I raised A arm mount holes up. I cut the same angle 1/2 up.
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2000 Ford hydroboost with TPC mount plate with the rod threaded for the porsche bracket. Although I have not cut off the one side of the fork  for those who look close.
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I purchased a PAINLESS harness and have a camaro ecm also ordered TCP long tube headers.

BTW- Thank you Eric for all the help and  parts

Installed a remote line for bleeding the clutch that is no where I want to reach later.

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Found it better to drop the motor down on the creeper and I didnt have to raise the car any more than where it was. Pushed right through the fender well.

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Motor finally back in

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Also installed hydroboost
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These look nice.
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Just as easy to install as any thing else.

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Shoehorned  

Steering shaft Lengthened 1/2 for my 1/2 cross member spacers. Scribed  a center line and cut in half. Machined a sleeve to lengthen  a 1/2 and scribed a center line.

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Drilled and taped with allen heads for test fit.

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After a test fit it was welded.

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Hardened pins were inserted and welded in.

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The upright bolt was turned around to clear the steering knuckle. Then the shroud on the alternator was trimmed for the bolt.

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This is from experience.

When I worked with Xschop on my steering shaft we found that the length should be increased by an amount LESS than the amount you drop the cross member.

Imagine the steering shaft to be the hypotenuse of a right triangle, the perpendicular is the dimension that increases when you drop the cross member, therefore the hypotenuse will increase some amount less than the drop. Can't remember exactly the amount used but I believe we settled on 1/2" extension for a 3/4" cross member drop.

Don't forget to retain the U joint clocking.

simon123 wrote: but I believe we settled on 1/2" extension for a 3/4" cross member drop.

Don't forget to retain the U joint clocking.

That's what Rob says here:

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Its all a learning process and I wasn't in on the geometry but I used his drawing so what next is test it. If its wrong I'll do it over.  I have a machinist and welder who dont mind helping and at times we labor trade. Its nice that this information is here but not nice if parts are left out.  Thats why I show my progress counting on feedback to fill in what is not out in the open.

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Slow posting but moving along. The motor is oil primed all fuel connections done. Debating the position of the key and computer power. I pulled power right from the switch but with my electrical experience decided to go back to the DME. Yes the most unpopular relay in the bunch, reason being the position in the ignition switch. The DME gives power in the #2 position of the switch and tapping in to the red black would power the computer in the #1 position. I weeded out the lines of the DME so only power coming out would go to the pink computer wire. Of course subject to change. Goal at this point is to fire the motor, then move on.