Forward fitment of V6 to keep stock brakes - doable ?

Ok, here's a question for you all, firstly ignoring the (solvable) problem that the drive train would need extending, would it be feasible to install a V6 (any type) in the engine bay somewhat forward so that it clears the brake booster vacuum unit - thus preserving the stock braking system intact ?

Obviously a V6 where the left bank was shifted forward of the right would be better for this, I'm sure the old Ford 3.0 V6 I saw at my usual repair shop was of this type, so it wouldn't have to have been moved that far forwards to fit in...

Seems like alot of added work & cost for nothing.

Can we steer clear of the cost/benefit/effort angle for now, in my view it's a case of how do you want to skin your cat.

Either somehow keep the stock brakes (in my case that includes ABS as well which as far as I can tell no one who's done a swap has kept or had to start with) which the modification of would likely cause me issues when I came to have the change certified (UK or NZ, not US) or modify the existing brake system in order to fit a V8.

I'm far less concerned about extending a couple of pieces of metal than I am about fiddling with my brake system and all the issues that entails...

As for the actual engine I have in mind, one of the newer 24v GM LY7 style V6's would be the ideal candidate - provided it fits in !

It's going to be more complicated than "extending a couple peices of metal"... goodluck

People have changed the master cylinder and kept ABS; The abs unit is separate

It's doable. You'll need an extention between the front TT flange and BH adapter. Then you'll need to cut, extend, and rebalance the rear trans coupler. This would be ideal in getting the TT shaft set perfectly into the pilot anyways.

>Spence - ABS
That's interesting, I must have missed those posts in my searches. I wonder if the different master cylinder setup have any adverse effect on the performance of the ABS system ?

>X - Rear coupler.
I was more thinking of, given my torque tube bearings are on the way out, replacing the actual inner drive shaft with a longer (and toughened) unit at the same time. It has been mentioned to me that the shaft itself often wears where it connected to the coupler when the bearings get sloppy so changing it at the same time depending on condition is maybe an option also.

X2 to what Xschop mentioned.

Just install a hydro boost type system and the ABS will work just fine, I've done enough of these and have had no complaints!. Got to be way cheaper.
You know the V6 has been done and Best I remember we kept the stock booster....

Korenwolf
Talk to Constantine, he is the Torque Tube Guru. I have seen the new inner shafts he makes. I'm sure he could customize as nexessary.

I think he may be from the UK... It would cost him a fortune

Another possible V6 engine choice would be the GM 60 degree engine from the Camaro, S10 and Jeep.
It can be had as a 2.8, 3,2 and 3.4 and can use carbs or EFI. It's a narrow engine.

That's what's in my MGB with a Holley Carb.There is nearly 10 inches between the water pump and the radiator, quite a neat package.[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Constantine is where I'll be getting my new TT bearings at least will come from, he's getting a new batch soon so I'll be getting a set of them long before any drive shaft changes occur.


> fliermike45
Looks nice, plenty of room at the front for a huge intercooler !


> Admin
Question is, would the 60 degree V6 it fit in the 944 engine bay with the stock brake booster at the back, or did you manage to keep the booster and fit the engine to the rear with the older GM 3.8, which is a 54 degree 2 valve head IIFC ?

I'd personally prefer the 60 degree 24 valve unit myself provided it fits, and there's no major issues associated with the newer V6 engines, the latest Direct Injection version would be even nicer, but that could be a pain to get up and running with a stand alone ?!?!


It would be a lot simpler for me to get the car certified (UK, or NZ which is where I'll be when doing any swap so I have a garage bigger than a shoebox...) if the brake system is kept as stock, which is one of the main reasons for trying to find a way to do so, as swapping the engine for a similar powered unit is easy enough to get through, but when you start seriously playing with the suspension or brakes the certification process gets a whole lot more stringent...

ON my original chevy V-6 engine swap, I was able to offset the engine by about 1/2 to the right and move the mount of of a small 924 vacum booster up and to the left.

It did clear the booster this way.