Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

Did you just tell them you needed the two row Boxster ABS pump harness? Or did they want a specific year, etc?

docwyte wrote:Did you just tell them you needed the two row Boxster ABS pump harness?  Or did they want a specific year, etc?

Talk with Gary, he knows the diff. I told them a two-row from an early car (pre psm).

Lookin' good.

I got a connector on eBay from a Mitsubishi Diamante that uses the same Bosch 5.3 ABS. It plugs into the Boxster pump correctly but I need to shift some of the pins around as it's in the front wheel drive EDL/TCS setup.

Rich

This is how I started my day, now just about everything is wired up, except the wire to the OBDII port. I should have ABS :-) Still lots of tidying up to get the wires out of the way.

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Any progress on building your front splitter? Any pictures?  

Thanks

Powerman951 wrote:Any progress on building your front splitter? Any pictures?  

Thanks

I'll try to get pics and post tonight. Still a work in progress, but needs to be done by this weekend for test and tune on Monday.

A couple of people asking about the brakes. They are on and the boxster ABS system in plumbed in and wired. I will be at Tigpri on Monday for a test and tune and will report back after that [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] .

Spent the day at Taladega Grand Prix working on the brake system. In general I am very pleased with the Integra 6R setup/cayenne rotor setup. Braking was moderately better than the Turbo S setup that I was running. Again, the benefits that I am looking for are heat reduction, longevity of consumables (pads and rotors), and cost of consumables.

Tigpri is notoriously hard on brakes, lots of hard braking but not much straight running to cool them off. Coming off track rotor temps were 750/550 (front/rear) and front calipers were 300 (IR pyrometer). Need to pull the wheels and check my temperature indicating paint to see what max temps were.

Although I was able to get the balance where I wanted it using the DMC balance bar, the throw on the pedal is a bit long for my taste. I currently have 3/4 masters on both the front and rear (rear calipers are turbo/968 rears; previous setup with Turbo S fronts was 5/8 front 3/4 rear). If I race in three weeks I will stay with the current setup since it is tested, but at my first opportunity (DE), I will likely increase both masters to 11/13ths. This should fix the pedal throw but mean I have to push harder (manual brakes) to get the same pressure at the pistons.

I never did get into the ABS, so I don't know if it is working or not   

All went well in the morning, however, when I started the car for the 2pm run, it would not go into gear. I shut the engine off and I could catch every gear easily. Pressed in clutch, hit starter and it started to roll, thus the clutch is not disengaging. Clutch pedal feels good, but I bled it to make sure, still would not disengage. Not sure of the problem, will have to tear into it this week   

Something is definitely amiss in the clutch. I can hear something metal rattling around when I turn the engine over by hand. I managed to pull the transaxle and TT yesterday, will pull the bellhousing and clutch either tonight or this weekend.

Powerman951 wrote:Any progress on building your front splitter? Any pictures?  

Thanks

Been meaning to post these up.

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If your adapter plate wasn't recessed for the C5 TOB this will cause premature wear or breakage of the pressure plate tines. When one breaks the clutch won't disengage.

He is using the bellhousing adapter plate from Eric...so did you mean the C5 TOB must be trimmed properly in 3 places to fit the adapter plate's groove?

944convert wrote:He is using the bellhousing adapter plate from Eric...so did you mean the C5 TOB must be trimmed properly in 3 places to fit the adapter plate's groove?

Correct, I am using Eric's adapter.

Depends on the adapter design. The machined face of the c5 TOB must set directly on the plane of the bellhousing/Bh adapter.

I just did mine last weekend and happen to have pictures.

The adapter is from Eric.

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Hopefully this will help.

Found my problem   

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Springs using the FW bolts as a grinder.

cause ?  fix ? seems that it is related with the wear of the clutch disk contact surface and maybe a shim would help?

xschop wrote:Springs using the FW bolts as a grinder.

Just checked all FW bolts and there's not a scratch or rough surface on any.  The clutch plate is cracked between a few of the springs.

I'll go down to Spec on Monday and have them inspect and order a new one   

Shouldn't complain too much, got 2.5 years out of this one. Still lots of clutch material.

hmm...that may explain why the other springs are not grooved. still strange "clutch plate is cracked between a few of the springs" seems like it is flexing for it to crack.

And you're sure the rear hub spline is not in contact with pilot bearing?

xschop wrote:And you're sure the rear hub spline is not in contact with pilot bearing?

Top two bolts attaching the TT to the adapter were missing.  I'm guessing this allowed quite a bit of flex.  David at Spec said first off that it looks like a flex failure.  

I attached the TT to the adapter (no clutch or flywheel) and the rear hub spline is not in contact with the pilot bearing.

Just spent 1/2 the day getting the pilot bearing out, damn, what a PITA with the engine in the car   

Clutch went back in yesterday and the car is back up and running. Still lots of little jobs to do before racing next weekend.

The 6-puck disc had to be replaced and the flywheel and PP had new surfaces attached.

Did you go with a spring loaded disk or a solid? I'm running a solid in mine and have been happy with it. You can't dump the clutch since those springs aren't there, but does eliminate problems like this. I did two disks because the springs went like yours