VATS Bypass/Delete

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
My swap(97 LT1 with 95 PCM) was done 2008. Confirmed good PCM with vats deleted.
Chasing a crank no start and found hidden rudimentary kill switch and what appears to be a vats bypass based on search of subject and the fact A27 fuel enabler blue wire connected to this mess. See pics. for effect.
So, my question is those who have a 944 LT1 swap with vats deleted pcm is your A27 fuel enabler wire connected? and are any other devices required?

My '95 LT1 948 does not have any of that junk attached to the fuel pump relay. My car has the VATS turned off through coding the PCM, and does not use the blue fuel enabler wire.

I would try to remove that stuff to avoid future issues, even if that isn't the cause of the current no start problem.

It is my understanding that VATS will allow the fuel pump to prime and the engine to start, it just cuts power to the fuel pump afterwards so the engine shuts down a second or two later. If you are not getting the fuel pump to prime at all, it's probably unrelated to the VATS. Although it could be related to that anti theft device you just found.

Porsche 944T with 97 f body LT1 motor and harness using 95 pcm. Not my build. Purchased complete and running 10 months ago.
Current Issue: cranks no start No fuel pump prime.
I'll try to be brief. From purchase ran perfect. No issues starting/running. Current issue started as 20+ min. drive shutsoff while driving, attempts at restart no fuel pump prime, cranks no start. let sit cooldown? 30 min +/- FP prime returns starts runs 5-10 min. Repeats for 3-4 drives until current issue. Confirmed pcm has vats deleted and tests good although scan "in car" no communication. Found previously installed "quasi" vats bypass/ kill switch wired into ignition switch and blue fuel enabler pcm wire along with 30A relay and a single resistor and rocker switch. My search on subject is basis on my assumption of vats bypass.
New Opti, Coil, ICM tested good ICM connector key on 12vdc pin a and d No 1-4 acv cranking pin B and good ground. PCM 12vdc orange "but no power key on drk grn/wh A7 1-2 sec. fp prime and No power Pink B 30 and D3. No power Opti connector or injectors. PCM ground good. All grounds found clean/tight.
Note: Disconnected Quasi bypass and have tested PainlessWiring 3 wire 64024 vats bypass no change. Also have a 5 wire gm vats bypass coming to try.
Thoughts?
Ron Dion

Rob thanks for reply, I believe your correct on not likely vats issue. Above post copy sent to LT1 Swaps.
My fuel pump appears to run via DME relay although I have no idea how? No seperate wiring tied to fuse panel top or bottom side. No seperate relay found. I've heard about not running thru dme relay, what is your setup?
Thanks Ron

My fuel pump does NOT run through the DME relay. I do not even have a DME relay in the car any longer. My fuel pump has it's own relay in the passenger floor board by the PCM.

If yours is wired up to run through the DME relay, make sure you try a new one as those tend to fail. Or jumper the relay socket pins to see if you can force the fuel pump to run.

Relay is good. Jumper does run fuel pump.
Can you tell me how you have your ignition wired to send key on switched power to pcm? My setup uses 2 spare fuse panel connections to send power to gm harness pink wires pass side firewall eng bay. 1 sends power to ICM and Coil and the other to injectors and opti harness along pass side intake man. I confident my issue has to do with ignition key (ign. switch good)switched power. I'm obviously novice but even my gm retired mech can't figure why/how no power getting to pcm B30 and D3 (single pink eng bay to splits to 2 to pcm)

Did you say you replaced the ICM, or only tested it?

I have had an ICM test good but actually be bad. Replacement solved the issue, similar to yours.

Also, I agree with those who have suggested just turning the VATS of, in the PCM.