Headers, headers, HEADERS!

OK everyone, what's the latest situation on headers? I'm not going forced induction right now, so I'd rather not do the reversed cast iron truck manifolds, and I'm certainly NOT going to spring for the RH ones. Please post your thoughts and/or experiences here. Are we limited to custom built ones?

As of this moment, yes...custom built is the only alternative for the LM / LS engines. xschop is searching diligently for an easier way. Several fellow [ex-] PHB members have built headers...NONE want to do it again.

If only I could weld, well...

Whoever finds or builds a good set of LSx headers will unlock the key to an optional "kit" to the RH stuff
Everything else has been done. I will even make the Brake booster stuff if need be.

And so Arthur and his knights of the round table begin the Quest....for the Holy Headers.

I think it would be tough to find a someone to make headers in small quantities for much cheaper than RH. The long tubes for my FD LS1 are Sandersons, made for one of the swap kit producers (JTR). They are a few hundred cheaper than the RH headers (they also use more tubing and are 1.75") but I think they sell quite a few more due to there being far more FD swaps.

Will RH sell their headers even if they don't sell you the swap?

Yes.

$849 RENEGADE CUSTOM BUILT LS Series HIGH FLOW HEADERS: With 1½-inch primaries and 3-inch collectors.

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I'll say something that I probably will regret later lol...


I'm a fairly proficient welder, and I have a very small fab shop setup in my garage. I usually make BBQ grills and pipe bumpers. If someone can take some good detailed pics, and GOOD measured drawings, I would be willing to fab up a test pair.

If they work out good, I would be willing to make up a few sets for people that want them.

I'm currently unemployed, so I got time lol.

I have the Hooker 2312 set of headers. They fit nicely but of course the driver's side #3 is in the shaft path.....
I was thinking 2 different solutions besides cutting up and rewelding.

Here's the easy and Inexpensive option....
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The other option is a custom gear box that bolt right to the top of the steering rack and has 3 same diameter gears in it that moves the shaft over 4-5 inches and rearward. It can be done, but would not be cheap.

2 of these and a stationary shaft bearing and it would be a go.....
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cutting and welding the 3rd tube would be easy easy....

Is that all that needs changed? (I haven't yet started the swap, so I have never seen what hits where)

Could a set of stainless shorty headers from summit be used if the 3rd runner on the driver side is moved??

RH wants $850 FOR THAT?!?!?!?!

I've got to imaging that modifying a set of off-the-shelf headers will be cheaper than doing the steering mods. Both Jegs and Summit sell the Hooker 231x Block Huggers at the following price points:

black painted - $215
Ceramic - $389
Stainless - $549

If we could get buy-in from a few people on the forum, and agree on a decent price, we could use these as a starting point. Each member could purchase a pair, have them shipped to M7 for modification, who would then ship them on to the buyer once completed. I don't mind buying a set and cutting it up - I can at least tack weld. I could then take the proper measurements and send it out for final welding. At $215 a set for the basic model even if I screw them up it won't be too much of a bother.

We need to decide whether these are the right ones to go with first. 1 5/8" primaries and a 2.5" collector seems reasonable. These would be good for 5.3 and 5.7 litre displacement motors - not sure if 6.0+ litre people want 1.75" primaries. They also come with all the hardware and gaskets, which is nice.

I agree with this. Even though I have a set of headers (I was one of the few idiots that paid $$$ for the RH's as we did not have a logical solution.

I would be in for a second set though for another planned swap as well as for the sake of R&D- This really is the only peice of the LSx puzzle that's missing.

I have a perfect set on hand. I would let someone with experience R&D them . I did a few set of custom headers for bikes and the material is the same. I just used a wire feed and then shot them with black VHT paint afterwards

Happy to do the R&D side (at least getting everything cut, fitted, tacked, prepped, checked, measured, diagrammed, and published, etc.). I would rather someone else handle the final welding, though - I'm OK with my wire-feed MIG but I'd rather someone with the right experience and equipment finish it up.

JJ Quoted .....""""I'm OK with my wire-feed MIG but I'd rather someone with the right experience and equipment finish it up."""""
I agree. I know 3 of the best welders in this part of the country. The best one works right from his garage and uses a TIG. I go to him because he is a stickler for precision/quality.

I'm fine with whatever you guys decide.

I'm available to weld up some headers anytime. My disadvantage would be that I haven't yet started my swap, so I don't have any experience with the actual parts that are involved. I've only seen pictures.

Someone with an actual car they had access to, to fit parts as they weld would be better suited I think.

But, as Johnny said, if someone wants to fit and tack the pieces then send them to me for welding, I can certainly help out.

This sounds good to me. Once I've got the Hooker units modified and tacked, I'll ship them to you for final work.

Hey Johnny are you wanting me to ship my driver's header only to you. Or are you going to get the driver's side 2312 and ship to me after you are done fitting. Wasn't it you that had the tube modeling set?

Either is fine, though it's probably faster for you to send me yours rather than order a new pair from Summit or Jegs and wait for them to ship. Are yours basic steel or stainless?

I use ABS plumbing pipe to mock everything up quickly before cutting metal - much cheaper and easier to work with.

I will ship mine. I would only need to send the driver's side, right?
Oh yes, they are 2312 (basic steel)
PM your addy. lets get this ball rollin

Either is fine, though it's probably faster for you to send me yours rather than order a new pair from Summit or Jegs and wait for them to ship. Are yours basic steel or stainless?

I use ABS plumbing pipe to mock everything up quickly before cutting metal - much cheaper and easier to work with.

Driver's side is all I need. PM sent.

It'll be in Saturday's mail

Hey Johnny, the passenger's side is a great fit. The driver's side header 3rd exit from the left can be modded up 2 different ways to let the steering shaft go thru..... PORH
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Without having them in front of me, I can't be sure, but the second layout looks like it might interfere with the brake MC? In any case, I'll be taking out the intermediate shaft first, fit the headers as is, and then start playing around with them. Perferably I would like a solution that does not require us to remove the shaft to remove the headers, but I don't know how feasible that will be. Time will tell all.