Late Spindles on Early Struts

This is the proper way to convert an Early strut to accept Late spindles and retain correct geometry....
I've seen some sh*tty attempts at this conversion with scary tactics...So I devised my own method...

First disassemble the Early strut and set the end up on a mill and cut the edge perpendicular to the strut housing right at the lower stationary bolt hole edge...I measured 3 different ones at 1.81"

Mill out some adapters with that 1.81" Dimension and that convert from the 20mm spindle mount width to the new 18mm width for the late spindles. The new spreadwidth Centers are now 63mm and this is even a stronger design....



I machined mine to fit perfectly in the slotted camber hole of the Early strut outter clamp so there is no shoddy upper hole modding to do.....




Make sure everything fits before crackin' ot the welder....



Weld along side the 1.81" Dimension and sides, and then the top and bottom just like the factory did. This will be even stronger than the way the German guy did it....



Don't half-a** it, put some pretty paint back on there...



Works like a charm.....The Main Point of the story is they rebuild with the simple inserts and Early Koni inserts just using the screw cap

Damn.

I guess if people dont have a welder they can use JB weld?

944-LT1 wrote:Damn.

I guess if people dont have a welder they can use JB weld?

Not necessary, just use duct-tape.

Edit: Awesome post xschop!!!!!!

For you guys with a mill.....
They are time consuming, but hella accurate

Besides being able to run different size rims. Is there another improvement this allows. If you can sway spindles that that allow for the use of late model control arms? If that is possible then what about Strut and Spring upgrades? Are they not still limited to early model options?

I am running a 1/85 and my suspension is complete worn.

I am not sure what to do yet. Any help would be well taken.

sky's the limit...

this is pretty sweet. just like all the other stuff you have made. i got one request though, can you make a lambo door set?

Hey Homer, the 944 needs a different mechanism than the swinging cam BS that fall apart after 10 openings.

As for the moral to the story of this exercise, It's just one more way to bypass shelling out for anything that rhymes with "orsche" or "ennlist"

modenas wrote:this is pretty sweet. just like all the other stuff you have made. i got one request though, can you make a lambo door set?

NO!
Ugh, jeez...next it'll be underchassis neons.

Porch wrote:

NO!
Ugh, jeez...next it'll be underchassis neons.

\

yep alreay there, got to have color so someone knows a POS blew their D*** doors OFF

You're gonna wind up with a Cheech and Chong ride before long dude.LOL
Hey, is there a stoner emoticon?

Ok I am back again. I know that sky is the limit and pretty much it depends on how much money you can throw at a problem to make it work.

I know alot of the conversions are in late models. I didnt know much when I bought the 944 and wound up with a 1/85. I am curious what it takes to put late model suspension on early.

I know I have to change the control arms, spindles, and out tie rods. But as fas as the struts and springs, if I do this to my current struts will late model springs fit or am I stuck to early.

I have been reading alot about the differences, I am just not sure what is a good way to go. I want to track occasionally, but mainly I want to drive the beast around and be proud of the conversion.

cfgioja wrote:...how much money you can throw at a problem to make it work.

I know I have to change the control arms, spindles, and out tie rods. But as far as the struts and springs, if I do this to my current struts will late model springs fit or am I stuck to early.

...I want to track occasionally, but mainly I want to drive the beast around and be proud of the conversion.

Early offset = 23.3 mm
Late offset = 52.3 mm

*Wider track translates to better weight distribution @ tire contact patch (the center of gravity is moved inboard in relation to the wheel), meaning better handling...although a minor difference (~60+mm) in track width probably would hardly be noticeable in a "street" car...

I have a "donor" complete '87 suspension BTW...
PM if interested.

Hey I see you are a fellow Okie. Welcome aboard BTW. Here's my solution to all these problems...Why not be able to do it all. Some nerd on Rennlist spent a whole lot of time and Jack putting Early offset Fuchs on late control arms, which I'm still kinda confused on his reasoning. The Late control arms are longer between Ball-joints and x-member pivots than the Early Cars as pointed out by Greg. I'm gonna run Phone Dials in the winter with taller sidewall meat and 18's with low profiles during the warm months here so I can put the car on the Oklahoma Autobon (Turner T-pike) and see what this contraption can do....

thats odd. So the only good thing about that setup is to be able to run both offsets? Do you have a complete picture of that. It is cut off on the right side.

I was thinking last night as I was laying in bed, All this talk is about the front control arms. What difference does it make for the rear?

Right Click on the pic and choose "View Image"
The other problem with the 944 alloy arms is the ball-joint pockets are week. The right side arm on the car when I got it had a bad strut which caused the ball-joint to "mushroom" inside the pocket. Any further and it was about to pop right out of the thin weakened alloy seat. I Made the RX7 arm with adapters to mount Early 944 replaceable Ball-joints...Problem solved
The rear IIRC, can be done with spacers between hub and wheel, or change to later rear control arms.
I have an 85.5 NA car so the Turbo Twist II wheels that I have will drop right on the rears with no spacers needed anyways.

thats preety cool. I have bad struts too. I never thought about the ball joints getting destroyed.

What all had to be done to those arms to make them fit the 944?

Better double check them, they need to be tight in their sockets when you remove the spindles to inspect.

Here's some reading material on the control arms....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-used-parts-sale-wanted/498907-custom-arms-pic.html

There is a bit of info I have never divulged (only because no one ever asked) is that another 7mm of X-member drop is obtained when switching to the RX7 arm that the rear control area doesn't get because of the beefier polyurethane bushing. I have a 32 mm x-member drop and the ball joint are in their stock locations so the springs/struts and tophats are also their stock dimensions.

Thats crazy, I have the early ball joints that bolt to the control arm. My control arms dont even have drop downs for the sway bar.

Thats pretty sweet though. I read the other article you sent. That would be a crazy swap to do. I might have to check it out one day.

I see where the benefits of the setup would come from. Man some people just get bored. I like this group. If you ever make your way to Stillwater, you should call me I'd like to see how it works. My # is 479-209-4864. Its an arkansas number.

I just need some help, something like overhaulin for my 944. LOL. Oh well the life of a grease monkey.

GT1SCCA hey give me some info on the suspension or the parts car. I sent a PM but I am not sure if I did it right, still new to the page.

PM Sent.

so, to be sure I'm reading this correctly...
early struts have 1.8" between the two bolt holes, center to center.
and late struts are 2.48" correct?

I'm having a custom set of coilovers made, and need to confirm the center to center of the .5" dia. holes.
thanks!
-a

2.48" (63mm) are the C2C on LATE spindles
2.28" (58mm) are the C2C on Early spindles

I never made an adapter to put Early spindles on any offset. This reminds me I have to build another set. I use 300lb Black Magic springs for the V8 swap from Southwest speed. My inexpensive KYB G2's are holding strong too.

got it...so 1.8" is not C2C.
thank you!