Tell me about your brake booster setup

I have searched and read soo much info on brakes that my head is now mush.  I noticed most of the reading I did was what people were in the process of doing, or were going to do, and that those threads are all pretty old, some a few years old.  So, my question is, what did you do for your brake master cylinder, hydroboost or manual, BMW or Mustang?  Why?  Would you do it that way again?  
My car (84) came with a Tilton dual cylinder setup that is new, but not installed.  It’s bolted to a simple aluminum rectangle.  
It also looks like I have the regulator for the BMW hydroboost setup?  And the reservoir.  

This will be a street driven car, with an autocross a month during the warm months, and a track day or two in its life.  What’s your recommendation?  

Edit:  I think it has the LS430/951 brakes on it.

I've got the Mustang hydroboost and should be driving the car around the block this weekend. I'm also using a Wilwood proportioning valve since the Mustang master cylinder isn't stepped. Hopefully I can let you know how it works after this weekend.

One proviso: I'm not using the same pump everybody else is because I've got a Ford V8. I'm using the same type of pump that would have gone with the booster from the factory. That may or may not make a difference from the Turn 1 pump I've seen recommended for the Chevy engines.

I have a dual MC setup with a balance bar using factory '87 turbo brakes. I chose them to simplify the build as a manual steering rack was used. The car is street driven. So far, there has been no issue other than some heat soak after sitting in a parking lot after driving. The MC's were wrapped in a heat barrier that helped, a change to higher temp brake fluid is the next step. The brakes modulate very well but lack some of the initial bite found with power brakes, may be pads, I used Porterfield street pads. Next time i am going to try the factory Porsche pads.
My front MC is .625 and the rear is .70 with the bias bar .55 to the rear, so just off 50/50 with a slight bias to the rear.

BMW hydro-boost with a BMW M/C, Turn One pump modified to increase pressure for the Porsche rack. I rebuilt the BMW booster, I used braided SS Teflon hose to build the high pressure lines. I also used the BMW reservoir, as the system needs a large capacity one. I have a Wilwood proportioning valve, big blacks up front with 993TT rotors, 968 M030 rear rotors, with 968 front calipers on the rear. That's a whole lot of brake power!

I have a question that might apply as well. I'm running a Lexus setup up front with Brembo Turbo Fronts in the rear. Using the BMW hydroboost system, I discovered that while my master cyblinder bolts right up to the BMW hyrdaulic booster, the N/A master cylinder doesn't have the right brake bias. So the question is...

A. What proportioning valve do I need? 5/18?
B. Am I better off to just get a remanufactured 87 turbo master cylinder with the resevoir and all from rock auto?

What valve did the BMW use?
FYI, I used the proportioning valve and master cylinder that came with my Ford Mustang H/boost.
Balance seems perfect with the Xschop LS430/Mazda set up.

I'm using the stock N/A 944 master cylinder, not the BMW one. It bolts right up to the BMW hydraulic booster. So I guess the valving would be whatever came in the N/A 944 set up. That make sense?

The prop valve is separate, screwing into the master before the rear line. My 87 n-a had no prop valve at all from the factory but there are several you could try from various cars: 18, 33, 45, 55. Lower numbers give more frontward bias.

Rich

The 5/18 is the standard valve that came on the turbo and S2. It will do just fine for street and track use. The 5/33 gives you a little more rear brake which increases stopping power at the expense of potentially locking up the rears.

Thanks folks. I'm leaning toward the dual MC setup mainly because I think it'll be easier since I don't have all the hydro parts, and a few other considerations. What's the hot setup for strengthening the firewall? Should I just make my own plate or does someone offer one?

I have an adjustable rod from the strut tower to the mount to counter the movement under braking. Look in Xschop's build thread for pictures of how he reinforced his MC mount.

I've got the Mustang Hydroboost with the Turn1 power steering pump a power steering cooler and a Tilton adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

If I had to do it over again I'd use the BMW hydroboost system with the stock 951 master cylinder. With the Mustang system the brake bias gets all screwed up. You can't really feel it on the street, but it definitely grabs your attention on the track under heavy braking!

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Looks like I'll be going with 5/18 or 5/33 prop valve. Again, I'll post pics asap.

Look at my previous pic to see the stainless steel plate bonded and bolted on the firewall.
Came from Sloan but I guess he's PNG now.

Pic below prior to engine turning and final fit.