Oil Level / Capacity

Hi all - New to the LS1 world having just purchased a LS1 951 track car.
Have been going through the car and have a question about the oil capacity. The engine has a cut down stock/GM oil pan on it. When checking the oil level, the car is filled way above the fill line on the dipstick by a significant amount. With the cut down pan, do people put the factory spec'd amount of oil into the engine or do they reduce the oil by what was lost in the pan removal?

I can't convince myself one way or another, but know that I don't want the oil level above the windage tray and getting around the crank.

Any help?

Welcome. What car did you buy?

One way the LS1/LS6 guys reduce the chances of oil starvation on the track is to overfill the oil. But you're certainly right you don't want it up over the windage tray or you're going to have foaming problems. The way I've been doing it is to get things warm and check the oil level immediately, topping off as necessary for it to be right at the upper limit. A minute or two later, when oil has fully drained out of the heads the level is a quarter inch or so above the line.

I don't know what to tell you about your oil pan. I'm running Eric's which has a nice deep sump with good baffles built in it. Capacity including my accusump and cooler is about 9 quarts.

Rich

Thanks Rich for the reply. I got a car out of Miami that had been built for the track. Gutted inside, f-glass 968 rear section with flairs for the wider rear, f-glass nose, doors, and hood, 993 brakes, LS1 with BBK intake, cam, and valve train done. Hope to have it on the dyno and scales in the next few weeks for some real numbers.
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So with the accusump drained into the pan, the oil level is well above the factory full line. I have some of the engine systems apart but sounds like I need to get it running and then use your suggestion to see where the level is. Will check it hot once one she's running again.

Oh! That car sparked some conversation over that brake booster setup. And I see you've got the same Accusump. If you have a manual valve on it, close that before you stop the engine or it'll flood extra oil into the pan. They're odd things to deal with if you haven't had one before.

And congrats, it looks great.

Rich

Whats so different about the brake booster setup.

Overall, the build looks good with many things done well. I'm certainly no expert, but the brake systems also has me wondering a little too. The car has two booster units - one where the wash bottle should be and one where the battery would go. The units are split between the front and rear brake circuits and has some pressure valves between the master cyl and the rear booster - I'm assuming to keep the rear from locking up first. I'm now looking for where the conversation on the brake booster was to maybe learn something from what people said - can you point me to where you recall seeing it?

Anyone know what booster units those are or where they came from? Previous owner seems to have forgotten....

The accusump is an electric unit and switched with the ignition. IMO, the AN6 lines coming from the unit is way to small to provide any substantial volume of oil to the engine should the pickup lose its feed. I've also never been sold on the idea of adding 3 extra qts of oil to the pan when it empties (presumably under hard braking) and then the resulting overfill when you're back on the power. Another thing I'll have to look at the track before I make a final decision. For now, it's winter in NY and will have to wait some time until I can test her out.

Those are single line remote brake servos from maybe a Land Rover.

Scroll down to post #103

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I think we dug up those units to be an AP Lockheed part from older Land Rovers. The brake master and booster is always a hard part of these conversions and what you've got is a unique setup. I'll be very interested in how it works when you get the car on track.

I've got -10 lines to my Accusump and agree -6 is too small. I'm not a fan of the EPC switch and plan to change mine to a manual ball valve. But even with the electric switch, it shouldn't dump under braking unless your idle oil pressure is lower than the pressure switch. I think mine has a 7 PSI pressure switch and hot idle oil pressure sits around 20-25.

Rich

Awesome guys, thanks! Should have thought to check rennlist, but searching for a needle in the haystack there...

Will certainly post more as I get some seat time with the car

Sorry for the public question, still too new to send a PM

Rich - I got the car running last night and checked the oil level after turning it off. Attached is a picture of where the level is - red line showing the oil level. You thinking it's too high also? Looks like the previous owner made a mark on the dipstick there for some reason
(I didn't check, but assumed that the accusump was filled back up from running the engine)

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Interesting that there's such and obvious mark and that the oil reaches it perfectly. Makes me think it's intentional. And yes, with the EPC switch running the engine should charge the Accusump. I notice in your picture above that your dipstick is vertical. Notice in this picture how mine is bent forward. I had to do this to make it tuck under the hood.

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I wonder if the guy cut your dipstick tube instead of bending it. That would mean the dipstick would insert farther and the oil full line would need to be higher. Perhaps that's why the obvious mark. I'm just guessing. Can you examine the end of your dipstick tube? Mine is nicely finished and painted and flares slightly. Is yours a sharp cut-off with no flare?

I can get a better picture of mine tonight.

Rich

Cutting the dipstick tube. Why didn't I think of that.

Hey Rich,
Good thinking on the dip stick cut job. The tube still looks like it has a nice bulge and flare to it, so I don't think it was cut down on that end. I will have to look if he cut the bottom of the tube though the mounting bracket then wouldn't line up...

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I'll Email him again and see if I can get an answer.