Engine Computer

Hey,

I'm looking at an LS1 from a GTO, should I buy the computer from that? Are they all equal or would a computer from a vette be better, would it work on the LS1 from the GTO? What about the Wire harness? I'm assuming I need an alternator from an LS1 powered car, not the stock Porsche unit.

Thanks,
Luke

I am using a GTO LS1. If you need some wiring schematics let me know. IIRC the low speed fan relay and A/C request comes from the BCM that you won't be using. Not a problem, when you send the computer off to get VATS and emissions removed you can pin have #42 on the blue C1 connector programmed for the low speed relay.There are various connectors that can be removed that are used for traction control and such.

You'll have to get the computer tuned for the car at some point, and once you're in there with some of those tuning products a computer is a computer! I would say grab it. Whatever little differences you come across will be easily tuned out.

Do the computer and engine harness have to be a matched pair (from the same car)?

Not strictly, but i would definitely try to keep them related. It's not uncommon for a pin or two to change between years.

Hey,
I need some quick advice. I can buy a complete GTO dropout (no tranny) with everything (including AC) and shipped for 2800, it has 76,000 miles and 190-200 comp on all cyl and good oil pressure. Or I could buy Just an engine with no accesories, harness or comp for 2400 shipped. I'm thinking the 2800 is better. By the time I buy an altenator, starter, ecu and harness the 2400 will be more expensive. I can sell the AC comp.

Thanks,
Luke

I wouuld buy the complete setup if it was me. You are right if you don't want the ac you can sell it.

+1 on the complete setup!

If it is a DBW (drive by wire) car make sure you get the pedal assembly, DBW translator box and the wiring harness from the pedal to the DBW box. Lots easier to get the matching parts now even if it is a few bucks more rather than try to come up with them later.

can I kill the DBW if it is set up that way? (I'll have to check if it is)

Thanks,
Luke

Only if you swap the throttle body - I have the DBW and it appears to be working flawlessly (and I have the option to wire up cruise control)

You you can elect to not use DBW, whoever does your ecm programming and harness will neede to know that, from a harness standpoint it eleminates 3-5 wires depend on year.

Presonally i like the DBW setup, namely if I have all the bits and pieces. Makes it a tad cleaner under the hood. Responce is nearly the same as a cable setup except some guys complain of the resistance or lact there of as a cabled setup. There are several tricks to increase resistance feel. As pointed above to some extent, it does make cruise a bit more difficult as you would need to move to a full electronic setup rather than using what Porsche gave you.

DBW or not, buy the whole enchilada. Make sure you get the MAF sensor, since it is separated from the intake & throttle body by a flex hose. (get the flex hose too).

100% agree with Bridar on getting everything. Over the years I have bougth many drop out engines and found they were missing a sensor here or there, or they have a clipped wire in the harness somewhere. Moral of the story get it all even if you think you won't use it. Always nicer to have spare to give away or sell, rather than trying to figure out the mystery hole in the intake because someone pulled the EVAP purge valve

Thanks for all the good info guys, it turns out that the complete pullout I was looking at was damaged more in the wreck than the junkyard thought so they aren't selling it to me anyway. There is a new car coming in today though and they're giving me the engine out of that one instead. Same deal.

Cheers,
luke

that works too. good luck

Thanks!

Are compression numbers between 180-190 OK?

Those are good numbers, they are pretty subjective based on testing method equiptment used and so on. The most important is the varibles between cylinders. If they are all within no more than about 15 you are good shape, less than 10 excellent shape.

thanks to everyone, I'll keep you posted once I get the engine. The guy said that the lowest cyl was at 181 and the highest was like 190. Glad to know those are good normal numbers.