944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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86 951 LS3 swap

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sharkey
spoon4364
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Post  spoon4364 Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:25 am

Hi all! So, I've been hiding the past month, reading through the forums. I'm a tech at GM, and thought this would be a fun swap, instead of rebuilding the turbo motor. Sooooo I've gone ahead, and pulled the trigger, lol. My car is a 1986 951, and will be pretty much gutted for auto cross. Have a Hankville roll cage ready to be installed.
     I bought an L92, which came out of an 08 Escalade. For those that don't know, you can pick one up a lot cheaper a than a LS3. And yes it's the SAME block. Both 6.2L, only difference is the intake(one is truck, one car), the valves aren't hallow, water pump, accesories location brackets, and VVT. I picked mine up for $200 from a friend who didn't know any better. Deleted the VVT garbage, and some other stuff, so now it's an "LS3". The motor is 376CI from the factory. I had the block and heads worked, so installed flat top Maule Pistons and now its 377CI. Installed a Comp Cam 146-426-26 with a LSA 113. Comp Cam .650 beehive springs are also installed. ID1000 injectors, and just ordered my Bosch 044 fuel pump.  LS3 motors are great stock because they are 430HP stock.
     My goal was 500, but well, I'll be way over that. These are very de-tuned from the factory, and can easily get around 470 with just a tune. I will be running MS2(megasquirt) as my standalone, as I already had it on my other car. Noticed a few people frowned on their stuff, but this will be my first V8 trial with it.        But I'm curious to know, how much HP are y'all throwing at these trans. I know when I was building my first turbo, 7 years ago now lol, I read they're good for 600 easy. But turbo and N/A torque are 2 major differences.
     I haven't purchased any conversion stuff yet. Still have to pull the old motor and prep the car. But I've been keeping an ok eye on the for sale log, and if anyone has used or new parts they want to sell let me know! cheers I will be updating with pictures, and a more detailedlist of parts.

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Last edited by spoon4364 on Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:39 am; edited 1 time in total

spoon4364

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Post  sharkey Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:39 pm

it will all depend on how you drive it, with 500hp one wrong move and you will break it. keep in mind its not the horsepower that breaks things, its torque. a turbo 4 cyl doesnt have the low end grunt, hence they can get away with higher horsepower numbers before breaking things.

why such large injectors? 1000cc injectors are good for 1200-1400hp. really all that does is create a tuning nightmare at idle. something like a 450cc injectors is plenty. would save a lot of money, those id1000 injectors arent cheap.

ive run the megasquirt myself, had 3 cars running it. the engine in my swap (its a chevy 2.2l ecotec) had a megasquirt on it in its previous car. the whole thing that got me into the megasquirt was the learning curve, you get to learn the ins and outs of how the computer works, both on a hardware level and software level. the other reason was the price, they were cheap as a kit. they do have their downfall though. even the most advanced ms3 unit still has the processing power of a late 90s factory ecm. the other thing is they can work great or terrible, ive seen lots of little things cause a lot of problems with them. i looked at upgrading the ms2 for my ecotec to an ms3, i wanted to run coil on plug in this car. by the time i added it all up i was better off buying a new ms3, and the cost turned me right off.

perhaps my biggest thing with the megasquirt is for an ls engine, its a downgrade from the factory ecu, especially a gen 4 engine. you will never be able to get as nice an idle, power delivery, fuel economy, cold start, reliability and overall driveability with any aftermarket ecm as you will with a factory unit. this is actually true of most obd2 computer systems, if the factory ecm can be fully tuned (with a laptop, not with hand helds, having to email tune, or send the ecm away) its the best option for 90% of the street/track builds. extreme builds, track only, or if your combo isnt something the stock ecm can deal with (for some, forced induction can be a problem) a stand alone is the obvious choice. just my $0.02.

sharkey

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Post  944_GASM Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:56 pm

I also agree with the above statement. I have a Rebuilt AOR Transaxle (Turbo S) with an upgraded diff, and would be terrified to put more than 500 ft/lbs of torque through it. Again, there are so many variables that would need to be determined. What rear tire width are you going to run? Obviously if you keep the 7" rears, it'll just spin, but a lot of us run something wider (I'm running 12" rears).

I would be more concerned with your CV shafts as well. The stock ones will snap the first burnout you do, so Lindsey Racing offers chro-moly ones for about $600. And at that price, you will be too scared to do anymore burnouts! haha

I would also recommend a torque tube rebuild w/ those numbers. Black Sea R&D will do a complete overhaul for about $900 plus shipping. They add the superbearings which are amazing!

With that all said and done (which I've done and no where near your numbers) you'll be about 2k into an AOR Transaxle (could probably use yours on the car since it's turbo), 2k into a rebuild of said transaxle (highly recommended), 1k in a diff (stock one will act as open w/ that power), $600 in CV Shafts, and $900 in torque tube rebuild.

I'm currently running a LQ4 with 243 heads, 228r Cam, and some other minor additions and am about 430/420, but this was before it was mated to my car car. I am currently doing the swap as well, but don't update too much on here (sorry!).

944_GASM

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Post  spoon4364 Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:48 am

Sorry for the delay. But I'm finally back on track, and updated with pics.

I'm using the MS because I already have the box from another build. It's less evolved than my Turbo build I had it on. There are better options, but wanna see what I can do before I spend money. I've decided to downgrade the 1000CC injectors.

As far as the tires go, I know with that much power I need something that won't easily stick. Although I really want a 12" in the rear. I know 500 is a lot, but I'm curious what it'll do.

A question about the flywheel. I bought a one piece C5 bellhouising to run at least a 11.5" flywheel set up. Do I have to buy the organic conversion clutch, or are there more options?

spoon4364

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Post  944_GASM Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:43 am

Check out Spec Clutches. They have a good lineup and great customer service as well. I was able to talk to David Norton, the owner, who also had a LS3 Swapped 951 at SEMA awhile back. He should be able to guide you in the correct direction, but they have the LS to 944/951 clutch kits on their website.

I am around 430ish hp and he sized me into a Stage I clutch with a lightweight flywheel/pressure plate. Reasonable pricing too.

Good to see you back on your build.

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Post  kevin924kevin Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:37 pm

Keep the work going. My LS3 is the 480 hp stock. With the additions i have done and a proper tune she will be well over 500hp. I am running theLS7 Zo6 plate and disk, but i am also running the T56 six speed. Even with 12" rubber on your ride, you should be able to spin them free. xchop on this site makes fancy axles.
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Post  spoon4364 Fri Mar 10, 2017 5:56 pm

Ok, soooo I decided to go with some bright green engine parts, since I will eventually paint my car a storm grey color. Got the Moroso 20140 oil pan and dabbed up the spot to make it work. It has a very slight warp, so I reheated it and going to let sit over night. And also the rest of my comp cam stuff for my heads finally came in. Then I need $1,500 for my intake and water pump lol. But then I can start on the conversion parts.


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Post  spoon4364 Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:47 pm

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Post  spoon4364 Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:47 pm

Ok, finally got my comp cam head kit installed!!
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Post  Rich L. Thu Mar 16, 2017 1:07 pm

Looks like you have a tube fitting on the back of the driver's side valve cover. PCV? That may cause clearance trouble if you plan a brake master cylinder on the firewall. You could use an LS6 valley cover with a PCV port and remove the one from the valve cover although it sucks to cut and weld after you've already painted...

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Post  spoon4364 Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:10 am

Ok, sorry for the delay. But I'm back to the real grind here! Twisted Evil  I will update pics and parts list tomorrow after I install this. I will be using the lift at work to install this. I've seen a couple write ups, but not one that describes what I'm wanting to know. When installing, do the manifolds go on before or after installation? Also the spacers came with two long and two short one. I figured the longer ones went in between the x-member and from, but the smaller ones I'm unsure of. Thanks for the help. And I will update pics of the build, and with it in the car.


EDIT: Also, how do I turn the image around correctly??

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Post  Hotrodz of Dallas Tue Nov 07, 2017 3:56 pm

spoon4364 wrote:Ok, sorry for the delay. But I'm back to the real grind here! Twisted Evil  I will update pics and parts list tomorrow after I install this. I will be using the lift at work to install this. I've seen a couple write ups, but not one that describes what I'm wanting to know. When installing, do the manifolds go on before or after installation? Also the spacers came with two long and two short one. I figured the longer ones went in between the x-member and from, but the smaller ones I'm unsure of. Thanks for the help. And I will update pics of the build, and with it in the car.


EDIT: Also, how do I turn the image around correctly??

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You may have to remove the passenger side manifold to get the engine in place. The drivers side will stay on the engine. Passenger side is fairly easy to install with engine in the car.

The 2 long spacers go between the crossmember and frame like you said. The 2 shorts ones go between the control arm and body. This spaces the rear of the control arm down to match the lowered crossmember.
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Post  Hotrodz of Dallas Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:03 pm

Do you have your ecu and wiring harness yet? Reason I ask, is that I have a complete GM performance LS3 engine control package with ecu, harness, throttle pedal, and sensors. It's brand new never installed. I no longer have a use for it. It was $1200 when I bought it. I would sell it for $700 shipped.
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Post  kevin924kevin Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:07 pm

Thats a good price. I paid 1065.00 US for my complete stand alone harness kit. To bad i already bought mine.
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Post  spoon4364 Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:09 am

Hotrodz of Dallas wrote:Do you have your ecu and wiring harness yet? Reason I ask, is that I have a complete GM performance LS3 engine control package with ecu, harness, throttle pedal, and sensors. It's brand new never installed. I no longer have a use for it. It was $1200 when I bought it. I would sell it for $700 shipped.

That's a great deal, but I'm running a DBC set up.

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