944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Lemming Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:19 am

Ever since I built my car I've dealt with heat soak on my starter as it sits very close to my headers. If I shut my car off during a race (pitstop), the car will not start for 10 minutes are so due to a really slow starter. I'm currently using the stock LS1 starter.

I noticed in the wiki that the msd 5096 mini is suggested when using the C5 two-piece bellhousing. Anyone using it? Any problems? Pics of installed unit? I can't seem to find dimensions for the starter on line.

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Post  kelleysj Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:52 am

I use the MSD starter and have had no problems with it but i do not race either.
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Post  Lemming Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:39 am

kelleysj wrote:I use the MSD starter and have had no problems with it but i do not race either.

Is it smaller than the stock starter?
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Post  Rich L. Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:01 pm

I run a OEM truck starter with the dual long bolts. The Camaro starter with one long one short bolt is the one with the problem of a mounting ear snapping off.

I have a Moroso heat shield with Eric's long tubes.
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I have no hot start issues. The problem with mine is more like an electrical one. About half the time when I key over the starter runs/stops/runs/stops like it's getting inconsistent power.

Anyway, I'm not sure there's clearance for the heat shield with your setup.

Rich

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Post  948 Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:06 pm

Though I am running an LT engine, I have had good luck with a Powermaster mini starter, which is clockable. If you haven't already, replace your power supply cables that run between the Battery/starter/alternator.
I have these on my exhaust where it passes the starter, oil filter adapter and clutch slave cylinder to protect from heat.
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Post  Lemming Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:27 pm

948 wrote:Though I am running an LT engine, I have had good luck with a Powermaster mini starter, which is clockable. If you haven't already, replace your power supply cables that run between the Battery/starter/alternator.
I have these on my exhaust where it passes the starter, oil filter adapter and clutch slave cylinder to protect from heat.
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I have placed a heat shield on the pipe, but given that fact that the header and starter touch, I'm not expecting much. Hopefully I can find a small starter that will sit further away from the header. I'll check out the powermaster.
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Post  pormgb Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:08 pm

I have the same problem that drives me nuts, I just bought a mini starter from Ebay that can be clocked so its further away from the exhaust, I will also wrap it before its installed.
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Post  Sterling Doc Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:15 pm

So is the Ebay Ministarter holding up? I'm having the heat soak issues as well, and it's driving me crazy.
Thanks!

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Post  jpkinerk Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:18 pm

I have an OEM starter with TPC ceramic coated longtubes and have had no problems. I also track the car. I'm guessing the ceramic coating is what has helped.
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Post  Sterling Doc Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:46 pm

I have the TPC short tube headers, that are ceramic coated, and a heat shield. It got bad enough this weekend that the starter relay would click in and out while the starter was (slowly) cranking. No problems when cold.

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Post  pormgb Mon Mar 21, 2016 10:27 pm

Sterling Doc wrote:So is the Ebay Mini Starter holding up? I'm having the heat soak issues as well, and it's driving me crazy.
Thanks!

Yes, the Ebay mini starter worked well but I had to replace after I added Renegrade headers. I picked up a high torque starter that has the stock starters profile, this fitted between the headers and block.

Here is the Ebay Mini Starter, it worked really well but you can have space issues due to the diameter of the motor case.

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Post  racertomtom Mon Mar 21, 2016 11:02 pm

The slow cranking from a heat soaked starter is caused by the bushings contracting and trying to seize on the armature shaft. Most rebuilt/aftermarket starters use nylon bushings. Old school bronze bushings will likely cure the problem. You may have to go to a starter/alternator shop to get one built.You can add more clearance on the bushing with the bronze if need be. More clearance from header to starter might not help but won’t hurt.

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Post  ausgeflippt951 Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:19 pm

So far no issues with my stock starter but it only has ~6 hours of heat on it.

I DO NOT like how tight it is with the headers (Kooks), however. I had to bend the tab for the solenoid signal wire so that it couldn't jump to the header. Couple that with the fact that it's only installable if I unbolt the headers, and it's not ideal.

Are the mini starters any smaller in diameter?
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Post  docwyte Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:18 pm

No issues with my stock starter and Kooks headers for the last several years...

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Post  Sterling Doc Tue Mar 22, 2016 10:18 pm

I ordered a Powermaster gear reductio, clockable one. Seems to be the best shot.

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Post  Lemming Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:16 am

I bought the mini, but it would not work with my custom headers.  I then purchased a new stock starter and have had no problems since.
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Post  FrostedFlakeJake Thu Mar 31, 2016 6:43 am

I'll just confirm in-case anyone finds this while searching,

The red starter shown above that you can buy on ebay from speedmaster will not clear the Kooks headers due to the case diameter, regardless of how you clock it.

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Post  Sterling Doc Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:57 pm

I put in the Powermaster 9509 gear reduction starter - it fits the TPC shorty headers easily when clocked correctly, and the car starts much better. At this point, the OEM starter was drawing so many amps when hot, the car was back firing, and popping on startup with very slow cranking - probably was not lighting off the plugs well. The gear reduction starter uses a lot less amps to begin with. Well worth it!

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Post  ausgeflippt951 Mon Apr 04, 2016 6:07 pm

Very cool. Wonder if that will clear the Kooks.
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