Ray's 1987 944 LS1 Build & Swap

"Next Step… Checking for leaks     Wish me luck!!!"

Well folks, this took a bit longer than expected because I didn’t fully understand exactly how the fuel pump gets energized.  I know now that the ECM triggers the fuel pump via a ground signal through PIN No. 5 (Fuel Pump Relay) on the chassis harness.  Without any ECM, this wasn’t happening. The solution was to simply jump PIN No. 5 to ground.

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< PIN No. 5 Fuel Pump Relay >                                     < Fuel Rail 32 psi >

With the key on and PIN No. 5 grounded, the fuel pump came to life and in about 20-30 seconds I had 47psi pressure on the driver’s side fuel rail.  On shut down, the pressure dropped to 37 psi but held steady for 4-5 hours until I closed-up shop that evening.  The next morning, 12 hours later, I still had 32 psi.  NO LEAKS from tank to fuel rails!!!  YAY!!  Another Happy Dance.

Now, on to fix that pinhole leak in my oil cooler!

Did your fuel pump run non-stop when you turned the key on? Does the Megasquirt run your pump, or is it hard wired to key on power?

I want one of those gauges on my oem fuel rail I can't find it

That fits on a ls oem fuel rail? Sorry I didn't specify

matt889 wrote:That fits on a ls oem fuel rail? Sorry I didn't specify

Oh no, sorry. Had head up my butt. LOL. I'm working on a stock 944 turbo at the moment

Use this adapter and get whatever gauge you prefer.

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I have no opinion on these, but have seen them available:

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Hey_Allen wrote:I have no opinion on these, but have seen them available:

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Hawk usually sells decent product. And it's oil filled, so very much more reliable.

Hotrodz of Dallas wrote:
Hawk usually sells decent product. And it's oil filled, so very much more reliable.

That's why I thought the listing worth posting.

The oil damped gauges tend to be more durable due to the reduced shock loading, as well as being more easily read since it minimizes vibrations on the needle.

matt889 wrote:I want one of those gauges on my oem fuel rail I can't find it

Matt,

My gauge is obviously the FAST oil filled unit that came with my FAST Fuel Rail upgrade kit.  It has a 1/8 NPT rear inlet for LSX/LSXR/LSXRT Fuel Systems (~1/8" MIP nipple).  I had to use a couple brass pieces (1/8" FIP splice and 1/8" MIP connector) to move it forward enough to clear an intake manifold bolt.  The adapter for the FAST fuel rail was -8AN Male to 1/8" FIP.

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< Brass Fuel Rail Extension >                                < FAST 54027G EFI Fuel Pressure Gauge >

A little more description can be found in a previous post. Click on the link below:
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I couldn't seem to find online the FAST fuel rail kit with a physical pressure gauge, so perhaps folks are leaning more toward a sensor that feeds a dashboard gauge.

Bob has hooked you up with links for stock LS rail adaptations.

This effort was posted under a different Post Title.  The link below is provided to fill the gap in my main post thread:

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This post provides a correction regarding fuel pump selection.

With my new fuel pump installed and new fuel lines completed, I am very close to initial start-up!

After the system was energized and confirmed leak free, my brother-in-law asked me if the fuel pump had the capacity to feed a 450 HP LS1 motor??  I was quick to answer, yes, citing my fuel demand/delivery calculations. In my previous post (link below):

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…where I stated that, “The OEM replacement Bosch pump for my ‘87 944S (PN 05800464069) produces 39 GPH at 58 psi through a 5/16” 3/8" line.” …while the engine demand was 36.9 GPH.
However, his question prompted me to go back and review my fuel pump selection and related specifications… especially since Gutterboy and I went back and forth a few times with Bosch fuel pump part numbers.

When I searched all the vendor advertisements for Bosch pump specifications that supported this statement, I came up empty handed and began to wonder, where I got those numbers.  All the vendors have plenty of info regarding applicable vehicle fitment, but not always pump performance specifications.

Finally, I found the data sheet I was looking for on the Bosch-Motorsports website (link below):

Bosch Motorsports

Unfortunately, the Bosch N69458 universal replacement fuel pump DOES NOT produce 39 GPH as I stated, but rather only 98 lph (Liters/Hour) at 4 BAR, which divided by 3.785 l/G and 14.5 psi/BAR respectively, converts to 25.89 GPH at 58 psi.  I must have inadvertently picked up 39 GPH from another pump I was investigating at the time… but I can’t even find that spec now!!

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< Universal Bosch Fuel Pump PNs >

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< Bosch 0 580 0464 069 Data Sheet >

Anyway, as previously calculated, my projected required fuel rate is 225 lbs/hr or 36.9 GPH using a BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) of 0.50 lbs of fuel per hour per HP, and a target engine output of 450 HP. This is more than the 25.89 GPH that my pump can produce… not good.

One Other Consideration: I can’t stop being an engineer, so before moving to a higher volume pump, I’m rationalizing that the BSFC of 0.50, which I used previously, is a conservative starting point for general fuel system design of normally aspirated engines.  More efficiently tuned engines reportedly can yield BSFC figures of around 0.40.  If I get way optimistic and use a BSFC of 0.40, my projected fuel consumption rate drops to 180 lbs/hr, and at 6.28 lbs per gallon, 28.6 GPH… almost good.

Conclusion: I’m moving forward with the Bosch pump that I have, and I’ll find out on the dyno what the real BSFC is for my engine.  If fuel delivery is limiting HP, then I can better decide whether to upgrade the pump…or perhaps keep it as transaxle “anti-grenade insurance!”

The pump you have is what's used on the 944 turbo. It will handle 450whp with out any issues. Done it many times. My only concern, is that you mentioned "5/16" line. Your supply to the engine should be 3/8". Please make sure you are using the correct fuel line on your car. The factory lines are 3/8 for pressure and 5/16 for return.

Thanks Bob!
We can always count on your expertise!
I will definitely sleep better tonight!

The 5/16” is another error on my part.
I used a banjo bolt to -AN6 adapter right off the pump check valve and 3/8” line in and out of the filter/regulator and to the engine.

5/16” for return lines as prescribed.

Recall from Part 1 that I thought my oiler cooler had a pin hole leak.

Well…. I started this Part 2 by first searching for this leak.  

Leak Test: After sealing one end, I applied about 15 psi air pressure from my compressor while the area in question was lathered up in soapy water.

The result:  NOTHING!

I repeated this test multiple times and not a single bubble was generated.  I then cleaned the entire area again and dried it thoroughly with light heat from my propane torch.  I then rotated the cooling coil around a bit and let it sit for a day to see if any oil appeared.   I could not duplicate the leak.

[b]Conclusion[/b]: I must have missed some old oil hiding in the cooling fins during my cleaning process, and it blead out after painting.

I’m happy about this because I can proceed with installation, but I hope my conclusion was correct.  Time will tell!

Below is the Porsche parts schematic for the oil cooler:

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< Oil Cooler Parts Schematic >

The front coil support was the first component to be installed and I did this as part of the transmission installation because one bell housing bolt goes through the support.  I also fabricated a sleeve to fit in the support mount of the bell housing because I did not have that part.  A short piece of ¼” ID cooper tubing did the trick (see pics below).  Recall that I did a thorough cleaning and put new O-rings in the transmission case for both coil tube ports.

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< Oil Cooler Front Support Bracket Connection >

The next order of business was cleaning all the oil cooler mounting hardware.  That was immediately followed by inserting the oil cooler coil line into the pump port.  I coated both the port and the tube end with some new gear oil and after a firm push, it went right in.

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< Oil Cooler Mounting Hardware >                                    < Pump End Installed >

Next, was insertion of the oil cooler coil line into the return port at the back of the transmission.  This one gave me some trouble… only because of the gas tank protection plate.  Recall I had to reshape it to fit.  When removing the cover bolt that secures the coil hold down bracket, I had to wrench it the whole way out.  Once removed, it was clear that the protection plate hole was offset with the bolt hole in the case and causing bolt interference.

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< Offset Protection Plate Hole >                                        < Partially Inserted Coil Tube – NG >

Moving forward, I was optimistic I could physically align the protection plate as needed so I inserted the coil tube.  It was very tight and needed a bit of leveraged force to insert it the full depth.  The retaining clamp ring grove must be flush with the case.

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< Fully Inserted Coil Tube – OK >                                  < Case Bolt Installation >

With blue threadlocker in place, I attempted to insert the case bolt while pulling down on the protection plate… NO SUCH LUCK!

The solution was to remove the 2nd case bolt securing the protection plate, located on the driver’s side of the case.  I could then realign the plate and install the passenger side bolt.  I was pleased that the driver’s side case bolt went right back in without resistance… just had to use more threadlocker.

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< Case Bolt Tightened to 18 lb-ft >                                 < Installed Coil Support Clamp >

The case bolts were both torqued to 18 lb-ft with a 6mm Allen Head socket.  

Next, I secured the coil loops to the oil cooler support.  The rubber cushion sleeves are installed first and then the lower clamp is bolted to the support.  I struggled a bit physically clamping the assembly enough to start the short length connection bolts… hence the destroyed paint job!  Ultimately, I used a longer bolt.

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<  Rear Tube Clamp Rotated Preset >                                < Rear Tube Clamp Tightening >

The last connection was the rear tube support clamp.  Again, the rubber sleeve is installed 1st and positioned so that the loop clamp will be aligned with the case mounting hole.  The loop clamp and spacer are put on the coil next.  I rotated the assembly outward so I could see what I was doing and then rotated it back to install the hold down bolt.  I used blue thread locker and installed it tight with a wrench.  No room for a torque wrench on this one!

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< Completed Oil Cooler Installation >                                  < Gear Lube Fill-up >

With all the mounting hardware in place, I added one coil loom.  I couldn’t get the second one in anywhere…just too tight.   In the photo, it looks like the fuel line is contacting the oil cooler, but it has plenty of clearance.  Nonetheless, I plan to secure the fuel line to the chassis to keep it from bouncing around.

Added about 2-1/2 quarts of AMSOIL SAE 75W-90 Severe Gear, 100% synthetic gear lube.  Several turns of the axle distribute/pump the oil throughout the transmission and cooling tube.  I stopped adding fluid when the level was just a shade below the fill port.

BTW… I had already pulled the drain plug, cleaned up the threads, and reinstalled it using Permatex thread sealant.  Torqued to 18 lb-ft.  I installed the fill plug dry in anticipation of checking the fluid level again later.

Making progress!

Next up:  Installing the Parking Brake and Rear Calipers

always wondered if i was missing some parts with my oil cooler on this transaxle and after reading your post i most certainly am. Will have to fabricate some of these mounting clamps to get it as it should be. Good thing i still have lots of aluminum stock to make these from lol.

Thanks for this!

Edit:

any chance you could give a thickness on what those mounts are to which the inlet and outlet of oil cooler spear into?  (part 34 on the assembly pic you provided)

Never mind all good! Found a ziploc bag of misc. Bolts and found that I stuffed the half crescent brackets in there (part 34)just have to mix and match which was the matching bolts now.

I was just about to ask! LOL! Glad you found them.

BTW... I found my battery hold down clamp the other day...guess I'll retire the custom robe hook.

First a nomenclature correction is in order.  I’ve been using adjectives like “parking” brake and “emergency” brake, but… Porsche calls this manual braking system, the “hand” brake.

Installation of the hand brake hardware and new shoes is not complicated…especially if you have a system in factory stock condition vs a DIY replacement effort by someone not particularly qualified.  The latter was my case.

Competency when working on your brake system is essential to safety.  You don’t want to go beyond your own skill level, and you certainly don’t want to compromise on the proper parts.

When it comes to the hand brake, the focus on safety is diminished a bit but you still don’t get a free pass to just “do-it-my-way.”  Below is the Porsche roadmap I used in conjunction with a ton of “before pics” taken during disassembly.

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< Porsche Parts Exploded View Schematic >            < Original Hand Brake Condition, PS >

The universal starting point is getting everything CLEAN!  This also supports the discovery of parts that need replacement.  I soaked all the small parts in vinegar overnight which did a great job removing corrosion on the stamped steel parts and springs…however it dissolved the metal locking clips (Part #9) for the hand brake cable connection bow pin (Part #.  I had to buy two new lock clips PN:N 900 588 01 ~$3 each. Everything except the springs and pins got new paint.


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< New Hand Brakes Shoes ~$15 Set >                       < Reconditioned Parts & Lube >

Lubrication – All metal-on-metal parts were prepped with Prestone Brake Parts Lubricant (~$6) 100% synthetic and specifically formulated for lubing seals and sliding metal parts.  Avoid getting lubricant on the shoe brake pad material.
               
Here’s how I did it:
Note:  All but one pic is the passenger side (PS) installation.

Step 1 – Reconnect the Hand Brake Cable

The cable passes through the wheel hub housing and the end clevis connects to the Expanding Bow (Part #7) which is a 2-part assembly not clearly shown in the exploded parts view.  The first piece is a Lever where the cable connects, and the 2nd is what I’m going to call a “Pusher” that fits between the backing plate of the rear brake shoe and a dogear on the Lever.  The cable is held in place in the Lever by a Bow Pin (Part # which has a top flange and is grooved on the end for the Locking Clip (Part #9).

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< Hand Brake Cable to Wheel Housing >                  < Removing the Supporting Plate, DS >

To make the pin connection between the hand brake cable and the Lever, it was necessary to remove the Supporting Plate (Part #10) which is not shown in my clean parts pic above.  There is NOT sufficient room to make the pin connection with this plate in place.  

Step 2 - Connect the Expanding Bow

I set the Lever component in place, aligned the cable end, inserted the Bow Pin (from the top), and pushed on the Locking Clip. The Supporting Plate is reinstalled after this connection is made, and easily slips over the Lever.

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< Lever and Cable Connection >                              < Lever and “Pusher” Connection >

The Lever is then connected to the Pusher by inserting the double grooved Barrel Pin into the Lever and then sliding the Pusher into the pin grooves.
Note: Prestone lube applied throughout all contact areas.

Step 3 – Install the Brake Shoes

The hand brake shoes are held in place by two Compression Springs (Part #2). The hooked end of each spring goes through the rectangular slot in the brake shoe plate, is compressed into and secured by a hole in the wheel hub.  These springs MUST BE INSTALLED CORRECTLY with the hooked end facing DOWN which is the only configuration where there is a suitable edge in the hub casting to engage the hook.
Note: The spring wire orientation of the closed end is identical to the hooked end so you can see when it’s installed correctly.

To physically do this, I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to grab the spring by the back wire.  Then I positioned the brake shoe, so it was just behind the contact surface of the hub.  The shorter distance between the shoe and the hub made pushing the Compression Spring into place easier, even though the spring was at a slight horizontal angle.  I then grabbed the shoe and pulled it forward back onto the hub contact surface, further compressing and straightening out the spring.  Checking the wire alignment of the Compression Spring, I could see I was good to go.  This is especially important for the front shoe.  Rinse and repeat for the rear shoe.

Note: For the rear shoe, you can look on the back of the hub where there is a port that allows a clear view of the spring hook in place (See pic below).

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< Compression Spring Orientation >                        < Installed Compression Spring >

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< View Port Behind Rear Shoe >                         < Expanding Bow & Backing Plate Configuration >

With the shoes secured to the hub, I aligned the Expanding Bow to engage the slot in the rear shoe backing plate and the Lever dogear, and then installed the lower Tension Spring (Part #5) to hold the shoes in position.

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< Installed Expanding Bow & Return Spring >          < Adjusting Screw Assembly >


Step 4 – Install the Adjusting Screw

The Adjusting Screw (Part #11) is an assembly of three (3) components, a Support Bushing (Part #3), and a two-piece Star Wheel/Adjusting Screw (Part #4).  The Star Wheel turns freely in the Support Bushing (lube point) while the actual Adjusting Screw threads into the Star Wheel.  

Thread the Adjusting Screw all the way into the Star Wheel to minimize its length, then carefully spread the shoes apart at the top until the assembly can be installed…yes, more lube applied as needed.  Be sure the adjusting wheel is positioned to the front.  

Step 5 - Install the Top Return Spring

The top Return Spring (Part #6) does double duty as a hold mechanism for the Star Wheel/Adjusting Screw.  My top Return Springs were mutilated by the PO… but after some massaging, were still usable.  

Step 6 – Adjusting the Brake Shoes

With all hand brake components properly in place, install the rotor on the hub and secure it with the factory bevel head retainer screws (2).   Next, rotate the hub so that the access hole in the hub and rotor is at the 12:00 o’clock position.  Then, using a long flat blade screwdriver, turn the Star Wheel counterclockwise (by prying the teeth upward) expanding the shoes until they just barely contact the rotor surface when rotated.  The pic below shows what’s going on behind the rotor.
Note:  To expand the shoes on the DS, pry the teeth downward to rotate the Star Wheel counterclockwise.

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< Return Spring Installed & Adjusting the Shoes >

If you had your entire rear axle apart like I did, the basic wheel hub reassembly order is:
1) Hand brakes
2) Flexible brake line (which I replaced)
3) Hard brake line
4) Rotor dust shield
5) Rotor, and
6) Brake caliper

I replaced my 36-year-old flexible brake lines with new stainless steel braided lines.  On the PS, I added a sleeve of rubber fuel line for insurance against any potential rubbing on the sway bar mount.

The rotor dust shields go on next which is a straight bolt on.  You will also have some wiring to contend with for brake pad wear sensors etc.

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< New Flexible Brake Line >                                   < Incorrect Flare on Hard Brake Line >

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< Cutting Off the Bad Flare >                                < Required Bubble Flare >  

My hard line on the PS was leaking at the caliper and after close examination, I could see why… the PO put a standard flare on the end!  This is unsafe and not acceptable.  A Genuine Porsche replacement goes for ~$160 at Pelican Parts, so It was worth trying to restore the proper bubble flare end.

I used my Rigid Mini cutter to remove the incorrect flare and my hand-held CAPRI bubble flare tool to get the job done.  Works every time!!!

Finally, I installed the calipers, tightening the mounting bolts to 63 lb-ft, and connected the hard brake lines.  ALL DONE!!

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< Completed Rear Hub Rebuild, PS >

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< Completed Rear Hub Rebuild, DS >

Final loose ends include bleeding the brakes, bleeding the hydraulic clutch, connecting the shifter, and building the exhaust.

The big news is that my nephew is coming over Thursday to wrap up the wiring….
it may just be START UP DAY!!!

So… my last wiring harness session this past Thursday resulted in getting my custom relay/fuse block wired into the MS3 harness and connected to the necessary Porsche leads. It mounts with the relays horizontal and in the same location as the factory Porsche PCM.  Just a couple more connections to go including the air/fuel ratio sensor, tach, and the VSS.

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< Custom 3D Printed Polycarbonate Relay/Fuse Block >

While waiting for the next (and hopefully final wiring session, I decided to bleed the brake system.  Everything has been rebuilt including the MC, and new lines have been installed at all four corners.

Nothing fancy here.  I filled the brake MC reservoir with Pentosin Super DOT4 (~$15/L) which I used for its superior anti-vapor lock performance, and improved corrosion resistance.  I pumped the brake pedal about 30 times to help get the fluid to where it belongs.  The only noticeable results were a fair amount of air bubbles, and the need to refill the reservoir again…. I took that to be a good sign. I did not bench bleed the MC so I was running on a prayer!  
NOTE: Fill the MC reservoir slowly as the internal mesh filter severely reduces the fill rate and can result in an overflow even before the reservoir is full.

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< Pentosin Super DOT4 Brake Fluid >                                < Homemade Bleeder Bottle >

Next, I individually bled each caliper just the way my father taught me years ago…starting at the wheel farthest from the MC which is the Right Rear, followed by the Left Rear, Right Front, and Left Front.  For each caliper, I loosened the bleeder screw (7mm rear and 8mm front) then connected my homemade bleeder bottle, which is just a length of 1/4 in ID fuel line into a plastic water bottle.  Again, each caliper took 20 to 30 brake pedal pumps to expel about 3 oz of fluid.  I was working solo, so after the pumping, I tightened the bleeder screw by hand (with the bleeder bottle hose still on) while the fluid was still dripping out.  Then I snugged up the bleeder screw using a wrench and proceeded to the next wheel.

After getting all four calipers bled, I was happy to have solid pedal resistance after about 1-1/2 to 2 inches of travel.  Pretty good for a solo run!!

I really don’t know what kind of pedal feel to expect after running the engine with an operational Hydro-boost.

I guess I’ll find out soon enough!

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< Completed Cross-member Installation >

Next up…Bleeding the hydraulic clutch.

Cool stuff
Love the relay board

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Greeting all and Happy Independence Day for all the American's out there!

Just a quick note for anyone following my Project thread now or in the future.  At Gutterboy's recommendation, I've created an INDEX of my Post Titles for ease of navigation.

To see it, just click on Forum Page No. 1

In the future I plan to add topic notes and perhaps quick links... for now it's a start.

I'm open to suggestions for any improvements!

Happy 4th
And thanks again for all the documentation

Prior to bleeding the clutch slave cylinder, I needed to clean up the oil under the car from my leaking TPC oil pan drain plug.  I used the supplied copper washer and applied more than the 18 lb-ft of required torque.  No matter what I tried, it still dripped… enough that I no longer knew how much oil was left in the engine.  This was primarily because I never had any oil register on my Lokar LS1 dip stick.  More on that later in this post...

Long story short, I drained the remaining oil to examine the mating surfaces of the drain plug.  I found two (2) issues:

   1. There was a “surface burr” on the oil pan drain plug boss.

   2. Iron powder had accumulated on the plug (about a ¼ inch ball), and the oil itself was dark
       with some iron powder clearly present at the bottom of my white 5-gallon bucket.The iron powder
       was very fine and could only be picked up with a magnet.

A close look at the copper washer revealed a clear radial gouge from the burr as the drain plug was tightened.  This provided a potential leak channel nearly all the way around but mostly at the location of the burr where there was no contact between the washer and the pan plug boss.  I removed the burr with a sharp chisel ensuring that I had a smooth surface.

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< Damaged Copper Washer & Replacement Steel/Rubber Gasket ~$3.50 US >

Regarding the oil, I was perplexed because the engine has never run.  Recall that I used STP straight 30W oil and a Lucas ZDDP TB Zinc-Plus start-up additive, which I think tinted the oil dark.

The motor has only been rotated manually as needed and cranked over for about 3 seconds when testing the starter.  I believe the source of the iron powder was likely traces of light rust on the cylinder walls that developed during the 9-year delay between building the engine and now.

Nonetheless, I consulted Bob at Hotrodz of Dallas and while he didn’t specifically provide an explanation for the iron powder, he noted my choice of oil/additive mix and graciously offered his “tried and true” recommendation for LS1 engine break-in, acquired from his extensive experience in the oil industry and 100’s of engine builds.

LS1 Break-in Procedure
    • Conventional 10W-30 Valvoline or Castrol oil.  (non-synthetic)
    • No additives
    • 500-mile initial break-in
    • Change oil using the same 10W-30 oil
    • 1500-mile stage II break-in
    • Change oil using desired Synthetic Oil
    • Use Wix oil filters

There is a plethora of recommended break-in procedures out there, and most major oil companies sell a break-in oil blend with various additives, not to mention stand-alone additives.  As I researched this a bit more, I realized that these products facilitate a “rapid” break-in while protecting certain metal on metal components…especially high pressure / high friction surfaces like flat tappet camshafts.

In a racing environment, break-in speed is a big deal.  With a new or rebuilt LS motor not on a racing schedule, ring break-in is really the biggest concern and a gradual break-in with good lubrication throughout is desirable for maximum performance and longevity.  I’m following Bob’s lead on this one.

From my experience in the AMSOIL business, filtration of oil contaminants (IE water and sulfuric acid) and wear particulates larger than 20 microns are essential to protect engine components from accelerated wear.  For conventional oil, frequent drain intervals (IE 3000 miles) accomplish this and safeguards against oil quality break-down. For synthetic oils, quality break-down is less of an issue, so for any kind of extended drain intervals, advanced filtration is the key.  For best efficiency when using synthetic oil, always get a filter designed for synthetic oil.

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< Selected Conventional Break-in Oil >                        < Selected Full Synthetic Post Break-in >

After installing the oil pan drain plug with the new gasket washer, I poured in 5 quarts of new oil.  However, as before, no oil registered on my Lokar LS1 aftermarket dip stick.  After a quick consult with Bob, I learned that the TPC oil pan adds about a 1 quart of additional oil capacity… and that new oil is more visible on a dip stick that is black.  I had a black Sharpie handy, so I made the change!!

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< Lokar Dip Stick – Silver >                                         < Lokar Dip Stick – Black >

Once I added the 6th quart, I got 3/4 – 7/8 full on the dip stick.  YAY!

Total oil used, 6.5 quarts with new filter.

And now I can go on to …Bleeding the hydraulic clutch.

This was a great post because amongst my final inspections to get ready for the actual inspection for the car to be registered and be on the road legitly, i have a small wet spot right at this oil pan plug. Tried to tighten a bit while warm but stopped quick cause i'm over18ft lbs and still has a wet look.

i think i have the same sort of burr and will correct at my first oil change here when i get enough miles. Luckily the seep is so small it doesn't even drip just appears wet which i don't like.

myself i got the castrol 30W and just added a tiny bit of lucas zinc additive but my engine came with 60k on it and was not rebuilt so less concerns there as things have worn there way to where their happy. i just did it for good measure in case my 3 bouts of drill pumping oil through the galleys while manually turning it over wasn't even to get oil everywhere it needs to be.

Close to the finish line now Ray and great job on the index, super helpful!