944 Manual Brakes

Hows it going everyone. I have an 83' 944 and just finished my swap. Currently running a stock MC with a renegade booster delete and pedal redrilled a bit higher up. The brakes are decent(think I need to re bled them) but looking for other options of manual setups. Was looking at the Wilwood 260-7563 tandem MC but wasnt to sure how people like them. More than likely staying with my stock NA brakes for the summer to get some seat time in the car. Plan on doing a full 944 turbo hub/suspension swap along with better brakes, maybe some big reds. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Ive used that wilwood master cylinder before with bigger calipers and it was scary. I would not recommend it. I now have mustang hydroboost and its so much better.

i tried that master and it was terrible. dont do it.

i found any tandem master cylinder to give terrible braking performance. i would wither go hydroboost, or a dual master cylinder and balance bar setup.

sharkey wrote:i tried that master and it was terrible. dont do it.

i found any tandem master cylinder to give terrible braking performance. i would wither go hydroboost, or a dual master cylinder and balance bar setup.

Are you running a dual master cylinder? If so which one. Also what brakes

im running a dual master cylinder setup. its a wilwood vertical mount with the mini wilwood master cylinders, 3/4" front and 1" rear. i built my own firewall mount for it. the brakes are a mish mash, wilwood 12.19 x 1.25" rotors with lexus ls430 calipers up front, turbo rotors and rx7 front calipers on the rear. running carbotech xp-8 pads all around.

That Wilwood MC is terrible because it's got an even bigger bore than the stock MC (harder pedal).

I would like to hear from the OP as I am also looking at manual brakes using stock M/C with NA brakes and redrilled pedal.

Looking at some figures the stock pedal ratio is 4.25:1 and the brake booster has a boost factor of 3-3.4 depending on model year.

So total amplification of "foot pressure" in the brake lines is 12.75-14.45:1. Let's focus on the 12.75 for ease of math since a somewhat harder pedal might be acceptable.

Redrilling the pedal 3/4" higher gives you a 6:1 pedal ratio but that means you are still getting less than half the line pressure for a given "foot pressure" than stock boosted.

Drilling the pedal 1.1" higher makes a 7.6 ratio which is about 60% of stock.

Drilling the pedal 1.25" higher would be 8.5:1, twice the stock pedal but still only 67% or 2/3 of stock line pressure.

Obviously we want the brakes to *WORK* but how does the pedal feel? Still hard, or mushy or... ?

I'm currently looking at the Tilton 600 series overhung pedal assembly and I'm trying to figure the bore size for the brake and clutch master cylinders. The front and the rear brake will be divided in two with two separate master cylinders with a balance bar in between. The thing is, the pedals provide a 5.0:1-6.2:1 pedal ratio, so do I need to find a piston with a bore size (area) to give a 5.0:1-6.2:1 ratio as well? too big and I lose ratio and too little and it will be (I think) super touchy which would suck because this is going to be my daily/track day car.