1986 LS2 Conversion

Well I think i just got away with highway robbery... set of 996TT calipers for $300. Supposedly working just fine, but they need the tension spring to hold in the pads. $60 a set from Pelican. Even if they need rebuilding I should be fine for $$$

Not my first caliper of choice, but the price is damn right and they should be substantially better than the stock single piston brakes!

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These guys showed up yesterday! They are quite large...
Ordered the tension springs for them, pad dampeners, pads, and rotors

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Working on the rotor spacers. I have the ID and OD close to Rob's spec. I'm waiting to get the hubs (guy on pelican forums jerking me around) to try to get the ID as close as possible. Unfortunately my lathe isn't big enough to put the rotor over the ring without removing it from the chuck which I want to minimize doing for fear of not keeping things concentric.

Note that this was done with a sort of roughing tool to speed up machining. I have another tool that will make the inside buttery smooth I'll use when the bore is much closer.

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So everything is getting to my house at the same time.

Cayenne rotor spaces are finished and now working on adapters for the caliper. Dead simple. 1 3/8" square t-6061 rod with 4 holes in it. Just gotta get the measurements perfect or the caliper wont sit on the rotor optimally.

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Pains me to say it but the OD on my centering rings is a tad (.15 mm) too small. The rotors do have some play. I could make some more but to be honest the lathe and tools I have aren't ideal for this kind of work.

Just sent Rob some money for his. Got one caliper adapter made last night; hope to finish the other today.

So today was a shitty day. The front wheels do not clear the face of the caliper.
My options

• Space out the front wheels 1/2" or so
  
• Get a thin caliper. Two of dynopro wilwood calipers look like they would fit. They are cheap. Downside is they have less pad area than stock... fade at the track would be an issue likely. A version (the most expensive) of the wilwood superlite would also fit. But it would be over $1000 for calipers and pads.....
  
• Different wheels.
  

It's a disappointing day for sure.

Got in Robs centering rings and they also have a bit of play on the rotor. Probably about half as much as my rings did. Need to mic Robs rings and mic my rotor to see if maybe my rotors are a tad larger.

Also finished the other caliper mount (pictured). As i said before, pretty dead simple.

Got 2 17x9 turbo twist wheels locally and got 2 more coming in the mail. They clear the caliper even without the spacers I'm going to need to run.

Oil pan is in the mail and waiting on Turn One to finish with my power steering pump.

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Took out the bearings and races from the hubs i bought. Jackhammer bead blasted the hubs and of course the bearings turned like crunchy potato chips.

New races in, new bearings going in tonight.

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Did a quick fitment of the TPC oil pan and pickup tube. Pickup tube only utilizes one of the threaded holes but other than that fits nicely. Access on the bolt that holds the tube to the windage tray could be better, but It's not terrible.

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Access on the bolt that holds the tube to the windage tray could be better, but It's not terrible.

BTW you can't get a socket on that windage tray bolt which means you can't torque it to spec. You also really can't tighten it that much due to the pickup tube and windage tray body being in the way....

Let's hope it stays on

Working on adding a cooler to my trans. It had one from the factory but It didn't come with mine from ebay.

So the factory hole in the rear trans cover and side outlet for the cooler are about 60 thousands too big for a 3/8NPT or a 16x1.5 mm metric pipe tap. I went the 3/8 route and there is no way the fitting would ever seal without some help from some type of hardening sealant.

It should hold. A few guys on pelican have had success with this approach and I hope to share their success

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I had my transaxle completely rebuilt at California Motorsports. Great company! Anyways, while they had it they installed o-ring to AN anodized fittings. If they could get them someone else must be able to find them as well. Also you may be able to purchase just the fittings from them. Worth a shot. Probably too little too late for this info.

I had my transaxle completely rebuilt at California Motorsports. Great company! Anyways, while they had it they installed o-ring to AN anodized fittings. If they could get them someone else must be able to find them as well. Also you may be able to purchase just the fittings from them. Worth a shot. Probably too little too late for this info.

Thanks for the heads up! I found some from some dutch site but they were like... $150 for a pair??!!

I'll post that info back on pelican where I had a specific thread regarding this topic. Maybe someone will find it useful

The spring in my tensioner is crap. Ordered another one from ebay.
Also looks like my new TPC pan isn't sitting flush with the gasket in all places. Torqued to spec and in alternating pattern. I'm going to take it off tonight to see if the mating surface is flat against a ruler. I could be doing something wrong so I'm not ready to point any fingers yet.

Got the trans back in the car and hooked up the shift lever to the linkage at the trans but I can't get it out of/into a gear. Have no clue if it's even in a gear. Shifter moves sideways as if it's in neutral. But no indication of any "gates" being there.

The bolts I could get to easily on the linkage are tight. I'm searching the pelican and rennnnlist for solutions.

Ugh looks like I'm going to have to drop the trans again. That's fun; it only took 3-4 hours to get it up there

Trans is stuck in gear according to Kevin the trans guy. Can't access the right stuff with it up on the car so it's gotta come down.

Sorry to hear that. Back in my early 20s my 924 locked in 3 gear. I pulled it out and apart and found the sinkro and detents took a holiday. Hopefully something simple.

kevin924kevin wrote:Sorry to hear that. Back in my early 20s my 924 locked in 3 gear. I pulled it out and apart and found the sinkro and detents took a holiday. Hopefully something simple.

I'm hoping for something even simpler
Evidently they can get stuck in gear and if you can move the control rods by hand (or screwdriver for that matter) into neutral you can then see if you can shift the trans normally.

Only took about 45 minutes to drop the trans and I took off the side little triangular cover and the "cross-shaft" as Kevin calls it and am now feverishly waiting for his further advice

Hope it goes well. I'm not sure what it is with the Porsche transaxles, but we see the same thing with some of the 928 transmissions.

Hope it goes well. I'm not sure what it is with the Porsche transaxles, but we see the same thing with some of the 928 transmissions.

Thanks... I'm glad to have Kevin's help. I've already started sourcing another trans just in case something is very wrong on this one.

Investigating oil coolers and what fits with the TPC oil pan and kooks headers

I had a similar problem when I put my trans back in, after swapping the 5th gear set out. One of the gear selectors was stuck for some reason, can't remember why but I just had to pull the trans out and fiddle with it a bit. I think I removed the triangular cover to get access. Sorry my memory is a little foggy, but you should be able to fix it without replacing anything.

I had a similar problem when I put my trans back in, after swapping the 5th gear set out. One of the gear selectors was stuck for some reason, can't remember why but I just had to pull the trans out and fiddle with it a bit. I think I removed the triangular cover to get access. Sorry my memory is a little foggy, but you should be able to fix it without replacing anything.

Yeah that's exactly what I had to do. Seems to be shifting just fine now.

Looks like I would have had to pull the trans anyways now that i'm looking at some of the suggested engine/driveshaft/trans alignment procedures.

As i mentioned before I'm not comfortable with the seal between the gasket and oil pan so I'm going to pull it off tonight, re-clean the mounting surfaces, and use some sealant on both sides of the gasket.

Also ordered a cheap oil cooler adapter to connect to the oil filter block and ordered tires. I wanted to run star spec IIs as I feel they are a good balance of sticky for autocross and have acceptable wear as compared to the newest, hottest tires. Ended up with BF goodrich rivals because tirerack has some old stock (2013) that they are selling for almost 50% off! 255/40/r17 on all four corners

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Here's a photo showing the pan warp. It's on both sides. Let's hope it seals up with the gasket and sealer!

Wow, that's significant. I'd be sending that back...

docwyte wrote:Wow, that's significant.  I'd be sending that back...

I e-mailed Kent. I'll see what he says. I was a little upset to discover it... waited a loooooooooooooooong time for that pan and as you guys know they ain't cheap.

Honestly I think it's beyond milling/sanding flat. If you take out 1/8th inch on the highside there's not much mating surface left. I think the only way to fix it would be to weld on material on the low side and then mill flat.

Won't fire the engine for at least another month. I put a healthy amount of "the right stuff" on both sides of the gasket. Fingers crossed I guess?

Honestly I wouldn't run it. Even if it initially seals up it'll probably leak over time. Then you get to deal with it but the engine is in the car...