Pulling the 944 engine (methods)

My hanyes manual says to support the engine with a lift, then get UNDER the car and drop the whole suspension/frontend. Lift up the car, slide the engine out from under it.

I'd rather pull the engine UP, moreover, I'd rather unscrew the last bolts that hold then engine to the car from ABOVE it in case my (new/untested) hoist isn't as strong as it should be.

Any thoughts from folks that have pulled these old 4cyl porsche motors before?

endrnet wrote:My hanyes manual says to support the engine with a lift, then get UNDER the car and drop the whole suspension/frontend. Lift up the car, slide the engine out from under it.

I'd rather pull the engine UP, moreover, I'd rather unscrew the last bolts that hold then engine to the car from ABOVE it in case my (new/untested) hoist isn't as strong as it should be.

Any thoughts from folks that have pulled these old 4cyl porsche motors before?

Out the bottom is the only way. I did pull my old motor out the top as a short block and what a pita. Also the crossmenber still had to be dropped befor the pan would clear

I've pulled 2 out the top. It has to be striped down quite a bit and you must remove everything you can in front. Such as the radiator and things like that.

UPDATE:

Got the motor loose and rocking. It's not hitting the pan yet, but it will NOT come free of the bellhousing. Removed couple of allens on top of bh and several 17mm around perimeter.

When the hoist is pulled forward it hits something, I think the tq tube is hitting the underside of the valley or something. Only have about 1/2" before it hits the pan on the PS rack, but that's not what its hitting.

Crap.

is the TO bearing rod still in the Bell Housing? also, my 944S had a crank sensor housing that must be removed from the top of the block (two allen bolts) to separate the bell housing from the block. Either way, the TO bearing rod must come out to release the bell housing from the block or the bell housing from the torque tube.

I remember this time way back on the old board where this happened. We were thinking all sorts of stuff to get it out. He finally did get it out on page 3.

Heres the link... [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Isn't that cross contamination?

When it comes to dropping it out the bottom of the car, isn't it important to get it off the driveshaft first anyway? I mean, if you let it down with the TT still in the clutch, something in the back end is going to have to move, or bend, or break.

go to Clark's garage and find a complete write up on removal. Make sure you remove the radiator and even the headlight cross bar. This will give you plenty of room. We had access to a rack and a "table" on casters. We lowered the cross member down onto the table, loosened the rear a-arms and upper shock towers, along with the front brake lines. The engine pulled forward, away from the drive shaft and then we raised the car off the crossmember/engine.

Ok so I give up, I have to drop the xmember off the car. Unfortunately there's a bunch of stuff attached to it in inconvenient ways.

1) How do you remove the tie rod end from the knuckle ? The 19mm bolt on top started to turn, and then started turning the ball in the tie rod. There's nothing to grasp to stop that ball from turning, so I can't back the top nut off any further.

2) Removing the steering column apparently uses a hammer and punch. Where am I punching? None of the shop manuals I have for this car have clear pictures identifying the part or method used.

1) remove the wheels, disconnect the brake lines at the body, disconnect the rear of the A-arm only, drop the crossmember with the rack and a-arms attached.

2) disconnect the steering shaft at the rack (a single bolt).

That makes sense. Neither the Haynes manual, nor Clarks do it that way. Your way makes more sense, I'm glad my computer is close to the shop, and that there are smarter people than me out there on the interwebs...



Here's the excerpt from clarks:
41. Disconnect the steering tie rod ends.

As far as the tie rod ends spinning when you try to unbolt them, I put a small just under the tie rod ball and put just a little pressure on them and that will usually give you enough tension to get the bolts off.

Yeah I tried torquing it a bit and even some needle vise grips. I'm afraid all I ended up doing is destroying the boot on that particular tie rod end, it never moved the nut again. Based on the PS fluid all over the bottom of this 944, I think I'll be buying new rubbers all-round.

On the plus side, I got the motor out, sortof. It's on the floor under the car, completely disconnected. I'm going to wait for a friend to help me with lifting the car enough to slide it out. It's going to be a fairly extreme angle, not even sure I want to leave the rear on jackstands while I do it, there'd be a lot of pivoting and if they broke free it would be... bad.

Anyway 968gene's suggestion basically got me over the hump. Honestly I was hoping to avoid ripping off the xmember just yet, but that mental block is gone. There's no turning back now.

endrnet wrote:...... but that mental block is gone. There's no turning back now.

Hmmm.....that sounds familiar [sounds of cutting tool in background]

for those not opposed to breaking copyright laws, I have a link to a free download for the factory service manuals. I have no qualms since they are no longer available except on ebay for a premium anyway. These should help with engine removal as well as maintenance on any factory part of the car. I won't post the link without admin permission, but anybody that pm's me I will send you the link, or post it with admin permission.

Nick

If they are not for sale by GM then post'm I say!

Admin

Admin wrote:If they are not for sale by GM then post'm I say!

Admin

I mean the porsche manuals, for pulling the motor or transmission, electrical related to OE porsche stuff, etc.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Nick