Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

Hey Tim, How much does your car weigh? I keep hearing that the Early 944's can get down in the 2400# range.

xschop wrote:Hey Tim, How much does your car weigh? I keep hearing that the Early 944's can get down in the 2400# range.

My 924S with a 968 engine in race trim was 2,326 lbs and I could have taken more off. This is with lots of fiberglass on the front end and everything that is non-essential removed.

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My ITS class '87 w/ stock 2.5L weighs 2730 w/ 5 gallons of fuel and a 185 lb driver. That's 52.3% on the front axle. It has been stripped out and caged but still has factory bumpers and glass as well as stock wiper, heater and window motors.

Rich

Wow. I asked tonyG what he thought about a rear engined 944 on the track. I like the #1700 idea...nasty

xschop wrote:Wow. I asked tonyG what he thought about a rear engined 944 on the track. I like the #1700 idea...nasty

Ack! 2730!! Sorry...

Rich L. wrote:

xschop wrote:Wow. I asked tonyG what he thought about a rear engined 944 on the track. I like the #1700 idea...nasty

Ack! 2730!! Sorry...

That makes more sense, the lowest numbers I've seen on a 944 is around 2200 lbs.

Another great weekend at Barber.

For this event I ended up buying a TurboS trans from JoshB instead of rebuilding the S2 (not enough time). My "seat of the pants" thought was that the longer AOR trans was not well suited for a such a short track as Barber. However, when I went over my data last night, it turns out that AOR was better for my lap times. Acceleration out of slow corners (like the hairpin, T5) was identical between the transmissions. This surprised me in that I would expect the lower gearing of the S2 to be faster. I believe that the slightly higher gearing of the AOR allowed me to get the power to the ground more easily, with the S2 I was spinning both rear tires and sliding if I was not careful. The decreased lap times with the AOR came from the advantage of being able to stay in 3rd much longer before the shift to 4th. This resulted in being 2-3 mph faster at the end of most straights.

Next event is the PBOC races at Barber in two weeks

Lemming, what throttle cable part number did you use? Lokar part# TC-1000TP as posted here?
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Or is it TC-1000HT as posted here?
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And just to add to my confusion, there's one that's for the LS1.
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How'd it work out? I read earlier in this thread that you had to cut it down. Would a 24" be long enough? Thanks for any help.

Rich

24" is to short and 36" is to long.

Rich,

I believe the one that I bought was 36" and then I just cut it down. It is quite simple to do, just undo the throttle body end and pull the wire out. Cut the external sheath to the correct length and insert wire, then cut wire to correct length and reinstall end piece.

Thanks on 36". But which part#? The 3 I listed all have different ends on them.

Rich L. wrote:Thanks on 36". But which part#? The 3 I listed all have different ends on them.

Pretty sure that I ordered [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I had to modify the pedal end a bit IIRC.

Trying to get rid a few annoying leaks at the rear of the pan and on the remote oil cooler adapter. While I was in there, I decided to stud the bottom end for the oil pan. Looked at the arp kit for $50 and promptly ordered the correct studs from McMaster Carr for $12

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Good to know. You should post the sizes and part numbers. I was surprised to find out how much some of this hardware was for just nuts and bolts.

Lemming wrote:Trying to get rid a few annoying leaks at the rear of the pan and on the remote oil cooler adapter. While I was in there, I decided to stud the bottom end for the oil pan. Looked at the arp kit for $50 and promptly ordered the correct studs from McMaster Carr for $12

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Worst part? The ARP kit is missing one stud (don't ask )

I could not find every stud that was needed. The 8mm are true studs with a center section (McMaster #91059A510), but these were not available for the M6 bolts, so I'm just using M6 threaded rod (#93805A259). I will continue to use the two long M8 bolts that attach my canton adapter for the external oil filter and cooler.

About one year ago I started using McMaster for just about all my nut/bolt needs. It started when I was pissed that the Porsche outlets wanted $1.50+ per bolt for the CV bolts (24 needed). I found 12.9 metric allen head bolts on McMaster that are $10 per 25 bolts I added lock washers and my problems with CV bolts coming loose is no more! (McMaster #91303A201)

Just a note, I had to trim two of the studs down in order to mount the manual steering rack. I also removed the two rear studs and went back to allen head bolts in the rear. Everything is back together with no sign of any leaks (knocking on wood).

Have not updated in a while. Like many on this board, I was having issues of firewall flex when hard on the brake, so I added a stabilizer bar and the flex is fixed

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Decided to swap out the tilton master for another wilwood, that way I can be sure that the strokes are similar. After installing and then testing in the garage, I pushed so hard that I bent the shaft from the brake pedal to the DMC setup Guess I would rather that happen here than on the track. Spent the last 3 hours changing it out and beefing it up dramatically. Hopefully I'm ready for Barber this weekend.

Lemming wrote:After installing and then testing in the garage, I pushed so hard that I bent the shaft from the brake pedal to the DMC setup Guess I would rather that happen here than on the track. Spent the last 3 hours changing it out and beefing it up dramatically. Hopefully I'm ready for Barber this weekend.

Whaaa? How did you beef it up?

944-LT1 wrote:

Lemming wrote:After installing and then testing in the garage, I pushed so hard that I bent the shaft from the brake pedal to the DMC setup Guess I would rather that happen here than on the track. Spent the last 3 hours changing it out and beefing it up dramatically. Hopefully I'm ready for Barber this weekend.

Whaaa? How did you beef it up?

I inserted a new stronger rod into a square pipe that was cut to the appropriate length. Now the clevis rests on the pipe and the pipe square against the DMW pushrod. I used the squared rod shown in the pic above for the DMC brace.

Car was pushing on left turns at the last race. Add to that the fact that I put my passenger seat back in, and you get a need to corner balance the car once again. Car has 1/3 tank of gas at this weight as well at 185 lbs of weight in the drivers seat.
Corner weight 50%
Front weight 50.7%
Left weight 51%

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You've got the cross weight nailed!

Rich

Brake setup was awesome this weekend, data show that my braking was much later and much harder. Problem was that the brakes worked so well that my corner entry speed was 2-4 mph slower. Still, I managed to shave 0.5 seconds on my best time at Barber and to sub 1:40

So, it's been a whole week and I have not touched my car. Guess I'll rotate the tires and bleed the brakes before the next event. I have to admit, it's strange not having to do a bunch of work after every event, guess that's a good thing