944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Cooling Fan stopped working - Page 2 Empty Re: Cooling Fan stopped working

Post  acorad on Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:19 pm

So I think I figured out why the rad was - and is now again - leaking.

It (well, the rad bottom support bracket) hits the ground occasionally when I'm not paying attention when coming out of driveways and such.

The rad is 15" in height, and that bottom support bracket is about an inch or so lower than the rad itself.

I guess I have to get a smaller rad?
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:31 pm

acorad wrote:So I think I figured out why the rad was - and is now again - leaking.

It (well, the rad bottom support bracket) hits the ground occasionally when I'm not paying attention when coming out of driveways and such.

The rad is 15" in height, and that bottom support bracket is about an inch or so lower than the rad itself.

I guess I have to get a smaller rad?

Or tilt it like mine is. Even then it sticks down just a bit.

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Post  acorad on Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:45 pm

Hard to tell from your pic, is the top tilted back toward the engine? I really don't have any room there, but I suppose I could tilt the bottom back toward the engine a little...
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:59 pm

acorad wrote:Hard to tell from your pic, is the top tilted back toward the engine? I really don't have any room there, but I suppose I could tilt the bottom back toward the engine a little...

Top is on the stock mounting location (using longer bolts) and bottom is slanted forward (toward the bumper. Literally 1/4" in the edges and about 2" in the center away from the airdam. I'll snap a better pic of how far down it sticks lower from the front.
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Post  acorad on Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:07 pm

Dawgz83948 wrote:Top is on the stock mounting location (using longer bolts) and bottom is slanted forward (toward the bumper. Literally 1/4" in the edges and about 2" in the center away from the airdam. I'll snap a better pic of how far down it sticks lower from the front.
Thanks!
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:12 pm

Hope this helps:

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Post  acorad on Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:54 pm

Excellent, thanks Dawg.
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Post  sbwrench on Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:09 pm

If you look I will bet it is the top corners of the radiator that keep it from going all the way up. I drilled out the spot welds on the radiator header panel and moved them up. This leaves the hood latch in the proper location and allows the radiator to go up quite a bit. You should be able to put the bottom in the stock location with out too much work. I just used steel rivets to reattach the ends of the header panel.

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Post  acorad on Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:06 pm

Thanks sbwrench, my neighbor and I were looking at exactly that last night. Basically take the arch out of the rad header panel and then move the rad up.

Looks like that would move the rad up about 1.5", which would be great.

I'm also doing some experimenting to see just how big a rad I really need. The core I have now is 20" wide and I blocked off 6.5" of it with cardboard last night and drove it home. Then let it sit in the driveway idling in the ~90F+ ambient temperature for 10 mins or so, and the coolant temps never got higher than the middle of the gauge, which is about 195F.

I will have to replace the rad at some point because it's leaking (I'll try to wait until after I get the A/C working to see if that makes much difference in coolant temps) and if I can go with a stock sized rad (I think the stock size is 14" tall) and not have to cut anything, I think I'd rather go that route.
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:28 pm

acorad wrote:Thanks sbwrench, my neighbor and I were looking at exactly that last night. Basically take the arch out of the rad header panel and then move the rad up.

Looks like that would move the rad up about 1.5", which would be great.

I'm also doing some experimenting to see just how big a rad I really need. The core I have now is 20" wide and I blocked off 6.5" of it with cardboard last night and drove it home. Then let it sit in the driveway idling in the ~90F+ ambient temperature for 10 mins or so, and the coolant temps never got higher than the middle of the gauge, which is about 195F.

I will have to replace the rad at some point because it's leaking (I'll try to wait until after I get the A/C working to see if that makes much difference in coolant temps) and if I can go with a stock sized rad (I think the stock size is 14" tall) and not have to cut anything, I think I'd rather go that route.

Do you have a real gauge attached or the retarded Porsche stock gauge. If it's not a real gauge, install one. I use this one because it's cheap and electric. Verify that the temp is correct. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] My gauge show 100C and is in the middle of the Porsche gauge. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

....or I guess a CAN/OBD2 scanner will tell you too.
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Post  acorad on Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:49 pm

Thanks Dawg, yes, retarded Porsche gauge, no CAN OBD2 reader here.

I believe I have a 180F thermostat in the car, and (other than when I blocked off the rad) the temp needle has never gotten higher than the first thin hash mark on the P gauge, which I've read is 80C/176F.
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