1/1985 swap to 1986 Turbo LS1 Porvette

Can you give us the numbers on the block? If its the iron block I think you can actually bore it out more than the ls1 block I believe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the iron block has sleeves? If you're having to machine it anyway, go for the extra cubes. Bore it out as far that the machines recommends. If you can get it out to 3.898 or 3.905 that's where you're going to find the majority of the used pistons and rods. Can someone confirm this because I am selling a set of 3.905 so I don't want to sound like I'm selling my rods and pistons.
If you're having to have it resleeved, make sure you're doing it with a machinist that has done it before and knows what he's doing. The resleeving process is pretty tricky and for the price of the resleeving you want it done well. Have the block honed and bored with a torque plate because some machine shops don't want to do it because its a hassle. Also tell him what type of piston rings you're using because he will hone it with different grits that allow for different type of lubrication. A torque plate makes it so the bored doesn't distort once the heads are torqued on. These are a little picky for building up a lower power LS engine but why not get it done right.

Its an aliminum block. I am going to ask around for other machine shops around my area too. This shop has never messed with an LS1 so they believe they can bore it 20 over. I am being told by others that it is past the bore limits of the sleeves.

I can almost guarantee you can't get it over 10 thousands over without really pushing the reliability and resleeving is usually really expensive. You may just want to get another block and start clean.

Here's some good options:
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Anyways, you should check around. I've seen clean used blocks go for pretty cheap on ebay. It's probably not worth re-sleeving that block, if it's worn past the limits. There's nothing on ebay right now though. Check on craiglook.com! That's how i came up with the results above--and i barely looked at the first page of results. You can narrow down the search to within a certain mileage radius, too (i don't know where you're located).

Here, check out this search, and keep an eye on it:

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Look at this result, in Allen TX:

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Ls1 Short block - Out of a 99 Firehawk Everything looks to be in good condition 100k on the block, Had a lifter collapse so gave me a reason to upgrade, doesn't have cam in it as its been sold. Motor will be out and available next week in Benbrook by fort-worth at the Simple Quick racing shop.

$ 300

May be worth going through the motor to make sure everything is okay before you put it in, but sounds like a solid foundation!

Keeping my fingers crossed. I called a machine shop around here and found one that has a LS6 long block sitting in the back for 4 years or so. He is going ot pull it apart tomorrow and tell me if the bottom is good. If so I am going to try work a deal to trade my LS1 setup plus some cash for his.

Nothing against the lS however I also have a completed project that only has 110000 miles and a total investment of 4000 Cdn. rear amp and Sub/speaker boxes aren't built yet...

I also went the LSx route because of the weight. If i wanted a nose-heavy car i would have stuck with muscle cars!

3050 Lbs with full fuel and 49% front and 51% rear without me in it. quicktime bellhousing, cast iron head small block chevy, battery in RR quarter.

Has anybody put the Quicktime BH on a scale?
Hell has anybody run their car with it yet, last time I heard they still had the TT bolts clocked wrong... The slave depth was wrong too....

I have a little over 5000 miles on mine now, The car sat in the garage the last 3 weeks because we were in the U.K. however if there is something wrong with it i guess i'm to ignorant to know?

I am at the point of my conversion where I have the engine harness hooked up in the car, I have the bell housing installed, installed the new fuel filter,and I have the majority of my interior put together besides some minor switches here and there.

Now I have to wait and find a new short block for my LS motor and figure out something about this trans plate while I have it out. I hate this part, waiting twiddling my thumbs.

Sorry it took so long to write back. I dont always get updates on my topic replies. Other forums sites have that problem too.

I will look into getting the measurements for you on the exhaust, robert.

As far as school goes, I dont use the gi bill. I am a disabled vet and I use Chapter 31 Vocational Rehabilitation program. It is a little different than the GI bill since they are paying me to get retrained in a new field besides mechanics, since my injuries keep me from working in a professional shop every day.

I got my lower block in, I will post some pics. It has forged pistons and h beam rods. I have to tear into it to make sure everything was done properly and balanced.

Ah. It's no big deal on the exhaust measurements as mine is done and I love it. Just thought it would help someone else later. I'm glad you have a block to start again. What heads will you go with? I'm considering getting another set of used 5.3 heads and having the larger 2.00" valves installed with a port job so I can have maximum flow and the Higher compression of the 5.3 heads. I still have not confirmed if or how much out of balance the rotating assembly would be if I stuck in the 4.8 Flat-top pistons. Anyone know?
I forgot how smooth V8's are and don't want to disturb the force, hehe.

The shop I get alot of my performance work done at just bends pipe to wake it fit any car they are working on. But I i see about posting something to help others.

I have a set of ls6 heads, 243 if I am right. I have to go buy a scale and I am going to tear down the block to check weights of everything myself.

Then hopefully reassemble and build the engine to put in the turbo body patiently waiting

Picked up my new short block this weekend in Amarillo Texas and drove to Alvarado to check Eric's shop out, now I am back at home in Arkansas. It was a long 2 days.

I pulled apart the block to get the rotating assembly balanced. It has 6100 H-beam rods and forged flat tops with -3 valve reliefs on a stock crank. The block was freshly assembled with a good home and looks to be in great shape.

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not sure of the brands though. It should work for my 400hp engine build.

ARP rod bolts?
I'm not an engine builder, so what's the difference between "floating" and regular wrist pins?

And what is the diameter of that piston? I see that Wiseco is making pistons for the truck motors at @ 600/set

The short block came assembled from a third party trade. I will know more after the balancing is done.

The number on the end of the rod bolts 8740 pull up ARP info on a Google search.

This link talks about the difference in pins:
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This is one link to the piston specs:
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Still no specifics on the rods though besides the 6100 on the side.

Those look like 4340 CrMo- con rods.......as I would say "nuke proof"

I'm not an engine builder, so what's the difference between "floating" and regular wrist pins?

Most engines these days have the piston pins press fitted or heat shrunk into the connecting rod. Full floating pins have a bushing fitted to the rod to allow the pin to "float." With this you need snap rings, spiral locks or buttons installed to keep the pin from hitting the cylinder wall.

Most racing engines have full floating pins to make it easier to assemble and disassemble. There is no real other benefit.

If you are building a stock motor there is no reason to go to the expense of full floating pins. If you are building a custom engine and need to assemble and disassemble many times (check deck height, check valve to piston clearance, balance, etc.) full floating pins are necessary.

For the price I found this setup for I can't complain. Even though this is mainly a street driver, these parts will handle the power.

I just have to figure a mild ls6 cam and lifters out, possibly check into pushrods and rockers if they need to upgrade with the dual valve springs in my ls6 heads.

My wife is suppose to take the rotating assembly to the shop today while I am at school for balancing. Hopefully I will have it back in a week.

Thanks V8 for the tech. I have a set of Wiseco's in the XS bike that full float. Good to know...
Speaking of....Do you have any info on the 012 transaxle R&P design/measurements. I see that you are the transaxle Guru on some other boards. I posted on the @@@@list that the 012 R&P's can be found in 3.71 3.55 and 3.44 I'm wondering if the R&P's are stronger as they look deeper/wider cut than the 951 R&P's. The 012 Pinion front bearing I.D is 48.6mm.....

I don't really know if the R & P's would interchange. From what I know about the 012....

the 012 is a 2wd version of the 01A which is different than an 016 and 01E. There is a debate as to whether it is any stronger than an 016. The Boxter uses an 012 along with AUDI A4 and Passat.

The 012 uses all aluminum housings where the 016 and 01E use a cast iron intermediate housing. I understand that some internals interchange between the 012 and 01E but I am told that the R & P gears are not as large as an 01E. It is difficult to get good info on these transaxles unless you have one to look at. Not many people actually look for interchangeability when they rebuild these.

I have thought about looking for a very early 924 4 spd transaxle (76-77.5) because they have a 3.44 R & P. I think it would be possible to cut the end off of an 016 3.89 and machine it to fit onto the 3.44 from the 924. This piece would be for the 5th drive gear.

There are lower gears for the 016 available (not the 951) but they are very expensive. (~$2500) They are made by Albins. (Australia)

I am not considering trying to interchange R&P between 102 and 016 boxes. Just looking at getting the $200 012 box from a junkyard in the U.S. (multitude with 3.7 R&P) and sticking in the 3.44 R&P ($450) from Audi.

The 951 boxes already have a 3.375 final drive ratio, it's going to be hard to beat that. Corvette transaxles have an even higher (numerically) final drive ratio standard, they just make up for it with a steeper overdrive (.62) versus the .72 that the n/a boxes give us. What kind of overdrive does the boxter transaxle give? I'm sure it's even worse, those motors have to rev to make power.

I can see why you would be so inclined to change transaxles if you have an n/a box, but the 951 box with an n/a 5th gear is a totally acceptable solution. I wish the RPMs were about 500 lower on the freeway, but it's not worth spending thousands of dollars or hundreds of hours on. Save your pennies, buy a nice 951 box, slap an n/a 5th gear in it, and be on your way. Buy some bigger tires and take a hammer to your fenders, and you'll get another few hundred rpms.

xschop you jacking my thread again? lol.

Sorry bro
I put a feeler question in the boxster forum on the rennlist. If the GT40 posting about it being stronger is true, then I will mod it up as I have the BH dimensions, 3 of the holes line up and it will bolt up. If my suspicions are correct the 012 box design fixes the pinion kick-back that cause the iron case to crack on hard launches (reason for the reinforcement plates on the 016)

There hasn't been any really good info about the 012 even on the GT40 board. There is a guy there from CarQuip that I would have thought would contribute to this but he hasn't. Since they (CarQuip) rebuild a lot of these transaxles I would think they would have some incite but I guess not.

I just downloaded the repair manual for the 012 last night but haven't looked at it yet. There may be some diagrams that possibly show the area around the rear pinion bearing.

Linky?
No more jacking, promise