944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  gwistrup Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:25 am

I have a 1988 944 N/A that already has been converted to M030 suspension and brakes to upgrade with LS power. I have been lucky to find a complete used installation kit with the PCM, harness, F-body front end components, clutch, headers, oil pan, master cylinder with adapter, and exhaust. I just purchased a LM4 5.3 engine out of a Trail Blazer with 70,000 miles on it for $600.
The used conversion kit I purchased was a Greg Sloan kit. Am I OK to use this kit in its entirety or have there been improvements made in the newer versions from TPC?
I have a manual one-piece front-rear master cylinder with the adapter. What is the opinion of this setup? I would relocate the pivot point on the brake pedal up 1".
There has been lots of discussion on the subframe spacers. I have owned several 944s and they can be dangerous to drive if the suspension geometry has been altered. What is the best compromise? I don't want to lower the ride height.
I'm looking forward to this project and I appreciate your help.

gwistrup

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Post  spence Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:10 pm

I used that master cylinder before if it's the 1" wilwood tandem master cylinder you're talking about. I didn't like it, it was actually scary. I changed to a mustang hydroboost and it's so much better.
spence
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Post  sharkey Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:32 pm

if you dont run the subframe spacers your going to have to do something with the hood, either cut a hole in it or run a cowl hood. most of the swaps involve subframe spacer, and there havent been any issues.

skip the wilwood tandem master cylinder, its a waste of time. i went through a nightmare to get my brakes working well. you have 2 options, if you want manual brakes you need to build a dual master cylinder setup using a wilwood master cylinder mount, or if you want power go with a mustang hydroboost setup using the factory master cylinder.

sharkey

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Post  gwistrup Wed Mar 13, 2019 3:31 pm

OK. Hydroboost it is. I have read where xschop changed the mounting holes for the control arms in the subframe to restore the geometry. Would this be a good idea or am I concerned over nothing? I had a 944S2 that I drove on the track with Fabcar control arms and all of the suspension parts from Racer's Edge and it handled excellent. I also had an '88 951 with lowering springs that was dangerous even after attempting to get the alignment within spec. The car that I'm going to convert handles great and I want to keep it that way. It has the stock alignment settings and ride height. The car will be street driven and maybe an occasional track day.

gwistrup

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Post  Rich L. Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:42 pm

Re-drilling the subframe will induce bump steer unless the rack and tie rod pick-ups are moved as well. This is a rabbit hole of handling and reliability issues. Just spacing off the subframe doesn't do this. But it will cause some loss of camber control which is exacerbated when lowering the car as well. At stock ride height, it's probably not an issue.

That said, I did my conversion without subframe spacers. I had to cut the hood and move the master cylinders into the passenger compartment with a floor mounted pedal box and rearward movement of the seat, shifter and steering wheel. Again, probably not worth the rabbit hole of issues.

Rich
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Post  gwistrup Thu Mar 14, 2019 8:03 am

That sounds like a lot of work. I have several hoods and I could modify one but I don't want to get into relocating the brakes. Can I put a cable operated throttle body on a LS6 manifold? If I were to purchase a complete LS6 intake with the fuel rail and injectors, will it be compatible with the rest of the LS1 fuel injection components if I put the cable type throttle body on it?

gwistrup

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Post  sharkey Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:57 pm

you can run a cable operated throttle body on an ls6 manifold. if you buy a complete manifold you will just need to make sure your pcm is calibrated for those injectors, that part isnt an issue. there are a couple issues that comes into play of using a drive by wire ecm with a cable throttle. for one, it can cause some odd driveability issues that you cant tune out, and two, the drive by wire pcm has no circuits or control strategy for the idle air control motor. so if you want to run cable throttle you need to confirm your engines trigger wheel (24x or 58x, lm4 should be 24x), and if its 24x you can get a computer and harness a 99-02 pickup, or a cable throttle camaro or corvette. if the engine is 58x, or you dont want to buy a new computer/harness, then your stuck with electronic throttle.

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Post  gwistrup Sat Mar 16, 2019 8:54 am

I will look for a complete LS1 intake then. I already have a Painless LS1 wiring harness and a LS1 PCM. I want to try to make this as easy as possible. Thanks.

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