majormojo's LY6 swap

Just an update to write that the fuel rail can be easily reversed 180*. Four bolts, flip it over, bolt back on. Easy-peasy. I think this will make for a cleaner fuel line routing.

majormojo wrote:Absolutely, thanks, that was a huge help!... Do you have a link to your original spreadsheet file so that I could copy and update for my application? I'd like to be able to update that and re-publish my changes for others.

Yup...just download it from here.

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Well, I finally did some work on the project and thought I'd post an update.

I finished up the fuel delivery system. The new setup is basically Eric's design made from individual parts bought locally.

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I have also replaced the vapour recirculation system a simple filter on the vent tube. The filter is a small engine fuel filter attached to the vent line and routed up out of the way near the fuel hard line that goes to the engine.
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We also got a start on dropping the front subframe. Just need to remove the brake lines which I'm a bit worried about because of the amount of rust on the fittings. I will replace the flex lines anyway, but I'd like to keep the OEM hardlines.

I need to run two more lines in the harness to the OBD2 port, then the harness will be done and I can wrap it.

Made a bit more progress today. We dropped the front subframe and suspension, removed the control arms and motor mounts. Installed the new motor mounts. I think there might be a bit of a clearance issue with the steering ujoint and the motor mount bolt/bracket. I'll have to address that when I do a test fit with the engine.
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The brake lines came out pretty easy, but the driver side was pretty rusty and the fitting is frozen to the line. Will replace the hard lines. Since they will need custom fittings to adapt to the wildwood mc, I'm not sure if it will be best to order new oem lines and modify them or do complete custom lines.

If you get confused with your wiring you can go to lt1swap.com and he has all the harnesses in color coded charts giving you connector #'s and function. Super easy and I ended up with zero problems or check engine lights. He also has ls engine info. Just got my car running and hope to post a video soon. Just need time.

The bolt has to go in pointing forward on that side to clear, then the shroud on the alternator needs to be whittled on to compensate for the flip.

gdopnt, thanks for the tip. I'm getting ready to do a test fit shortly.

Potentially dumb questions:

I have the pilot bearing and adapter from Eric's (TPC/admin) kit. My engine originally had an automatic, so it should not have a pilot bearing installed. Is this the correct procedure?

1. Press the bearing into the adapter.
2. Press the adapter into the crank, bearing side out.
3. Bearing then slips over the end of the driveshaft when the engine goes in.

Can I just tap the bearing/adapter in with a mallet and big socket?

Next what's the right order to get the engine in the car? This is what I'm thinking:

1. Flip engine on the stand, attach the subframe.
2. Attach engine to hoist, remove stand.
3. With the engine securely balanced on the ground, install Flywheel, clutch, PP and BH on engine.
4. Raise up the front of the car.
5. Roll the engine underneath.
6. Drop the car down, match up the driveshaft to the clutch, roll the engine back into place.
7. Bolt up the subframe with spacers.

Is that about right? Will I have to remove the TT and diff to get enough room front-to-back to clear the end of the driveshaft?

Yes, they are pressed in. I put the bearing in freezer over night and used some heat on the adapter. I used a piece of wood and hammer to install the two together into the end of the crank. There is a depth you would look to achieve. I test fit the cross member to the oil pan (must clear or be checked to clear oil pan)  which meant mounting it to the motor. look at the last pic in my build "garage queens" I just added it. Maybe you know that maybe you don't.

The torque tube shaft needs to be measured for the length it extends past the mounting plate. Test fit motor without clutch and pressure plate. 

It is harder to install motor with cross member installed (my experience) because maneuvering the motor onto the torque shaft - must be lined up close to perfect to slide in.

I put the motor on creeper and rolled it in through the wheel well and then lifted up with hoist. look at the angle adjuster for motor in my build its orange helps a lot for alignment.

Radiator should be out to get motor in front of torque shaft.

If you have any questions just ask or feel free to PM me. my build is running.

Sam

I installed the crossmember after the engine was located as well. I had the mounts on the engine but hanging loosely when I hooked-up the hoist and raised the engine. If you're using long tube headers, remember to install the starter motor first. Good luck.

YES. Long tube headers that reminds me on final install like rich said: starter in first. This is why.

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This starter cost more and fits worse. The crank sensor is behind the starter so you'll need to figure out how to get that in.

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I had to lower the motor,  install headers loose, then raise motor.  Now if your told too much you wont be an expert on the project because multiple in and outs of the motor will build your experience.

Awesome, thanks guys. I have the short tube headers from Eric, but I will probably install the starter and headers first anyway, just to get it done. Hoping to do first test fit this weekend.

I'm still on the fence about whether or not to go with power steering. If I do, I think I'll go with a Turn One pump and one of the brackets from dirtydingo. Need to work out if the spacing is correct, because I have a VVT engine that has the main serp belt spaced out 19mm farther than the non VVT. I got the aluminum spacers referenced earlier and that's worked out OK with the OEM F-Body alt bracket.

The alternate plan is to just get the engine in and make the car mobile again this summer (I've owned the car 3+ years and have never driven it!) and then do the PS as an upgrade over the next winter.

I used the stock pump and a valve from hydra tech. They had me use a 1/8 drill to open it up and it works good for me.

Update:

Spent 2 hours this morning cleaning the engine bay. Figured there's never going to be a better opportunity and it's nicer working on clean stuff. I'm building a track toy, not a concours car, so I won't be repainting it or anything, but I think it's about as clean as I can get it. I used a combination of hot water and dish soap, brake cleaner, windex, goo-gone cleaners with some rags, scotchbrite pads and a scrub brush.
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Got the headers installed and sure enough there was a bit of a space issue with the header flange and the starter. Couple minutes with an angle grinder fixed that, but I'm not thrilled about how thin the flange is there now. I think it could be resolved by rotating the flange a few degrees so that bolt isn't directly next to the starter.
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Got the alternator installed and had to do a bit of grinding on the bracket to get the idler wheel to align properly. I thought I took photos but I can't find them now.

Pressed the pilot bearing into the adaptor. That went pretty easy, I had the bearing in the freezer for a while beforehand, heated up the adaptor with a propane torch and then pressed the bearing in using a bench vise. Easy-peasy.
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If you are using hydro boost this is the room you have when the motor comes up for fitting that stuff will be in the way.

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This is this only way to paint if it is in the plan. My swap felt like it was stuck in the "get the motor broke in" stage for about 4 months after that it went very fast to road trip. 

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At this point I just need to do vacuum for the heater and fuel vapor. Some people have complained about others doing there intake this way but for now this is how it is. Only certain places can you tell the whole motor compartment had been painted now that's its full of motor and other stuff.

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that flange would have been better if it was rotated. not sure if it would run into other things though. better option would be cutting the flange off and welding a v-band on.

I havent done any track time in the summer yet but i am wondering how long the starters are going to last sitting so close to the long tubes. My headers are coated by Swaintech which helps to reduce some of the ambient heat and i wrapped the starter in reflective insulation also. I wonder if the headers from Kooks / Slow Motion fit any better around the headers.

Hydroboost fitment was tight on my install also. I actually had to cant the master cylinder and hydroboost unit slightly a few degrees to clear the valve cover.

Can anyone tell me what this connector is for?
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Yeah, I'm not thrilled about that header placement and the prospects for the life of the starter. I don't even have room for any insulation. This is how it's ended up after trimming the flange.
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I'm not using a hydroboost, I have this dual manual setup that I picked up from another forum member, 87-944S.
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So, the car's PO did this awesome job connecting up the main power leads. The two ends were clamped into a single connector at the battery post. I'd like to clean this up and do it better. What's the "correct" way to bring all these to single lead to the battery? I have some heavy 1 gauge battery cable and a new post connector but not sure the best way to connect that back to these leads.  I'm not keen to replace all of those leads going into the Porsche fuse block but there must be a good way to make this cleaner.
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Yikes, thats really close. I would consider removing the header, cutting the flange off and reorienting it. No better time to do it now!

I would solder ring terminals on each of those leads, then connect everything to the battery using a Milspec battery terminals.

gdopnt, how did you paint your engine bay? I suppose since I'm at this point I could hit with some rattle cans in guards red just to clean up the scratches. I'd be worried about it looking worse in the end than if I just leave it alone...

Techno Duck wrote:Yikes, thats really close. I would consider removing the header, cutting the flange off and reorienting it. No better time to do it now!

That's a good idea, but not something I would do myself. I'm going to see a welder next week about doing some roll cage work on an ice racer, I'll take the header along and see if he can fix it up. I'd prefer if the flange were actually a couple inches lower (header a bit longer) and clear the starter altogether. I suppose there is some reason it's where it is.

I think that connector is for the cruise control. I just zipped that connector to a battery cable.

My starter only survived one season of track use with long tubes. It was wrapped with reflective heat tape but still died fast. I tried to add a heat shield with the replacement but just didn't have room.

Rich

Took a lot of pictures. Lacquer thinner was used to clean just don't pile up the used rags. Harbor freight sells a gravity gun cheap if you have a small air compressor although a small set up wouldn't work for the whole car. I used PPG base coat clear coat. This is a street car build with little track time I don't plan on trading paint. Under the hood cost around 275 ish.


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