Hydroboost mounting plate

I have the LM7 and that stud/protrusion is not there either. The head is only 1/4" or so away from firewall. Seems it is only a ground strap location. If so, just remove bolt and place ground strap elsewhere. My ground strap for that head is near the oil pres. sensor in the center. What is the head casting#?

I am not sure what the casting number right off -- As far as the bolt is concerned -- I looked around and I cannot see it on others either -- I know that if we try to take there is no room to even back it out without removing the motor.

I think that was an engine an engine lift point. I remember now I had a chain attached there. I ended up having to cut that bolt off since I couldn't unscrew it, since it hit the firewall.

87-944S wrote:I ended up having to cut that bolt off since I couldn't unscrew it, since it hit the firewall.

Ya, that would be my suggestion.

gently cut it off. mount robs system. happy motoring

Has anyone gotten around to mounting XSChops adapter plate and taken any pictures?

Just trying to make it easier on the shop working on my car by giving them as much reference material as possible.

Techno Duck wrote:Has anyone gotten around to mounting XSChops adapter plate and taken any pictures?

Just trying to make it easier on the shop working on my car by giving them as much reference material as possible.

Yes, I too am interested in seeing this as I have just acquired a 944 to start this epic journey!

From what I have read there seems to be only two sticking points on this conversion.
1. The brake booster problem.
2. The header problem. ( completely opposite problem for us in Right Hand Drive Countries)

So if there's any pics of the HB adapter out there please post.

I must thank admiralkhole for all the info and pics he has sent me.

Also, how much of the Ford HB system should I buy?
On ebay some have just the MC, some include the bias, some include the lines and reservoir,
I'm still confused.

I am working on the install now. I installed the hydroboost first, thinking it would be easier to get into place without the engine in the way.
I'm running into some clearance issues with the drivers valve cover.
I am using a hydroboost from a 2000 Ford Mustang.
I must say that there is a decent chance I messed something up and haven't figured it out yet.
In order to get the engine cross member holes to line up, the drivers valve cover interferes with the hydroboost mount (laterally, not front to back).

It could be 1 of these scenarios:
1. My engine mount uprights may be causing the engine to mount too far to the drivers side. I noticed that I did have to notch my crossmember at the drivers side steering rack mount. Not sure if that is normal (using Eric's oil pan). So maybe my engine is sitting too far over towards the drivers side for some reason? This could be causing interference with the engine.

2. Using XSChop's transmission mount moves the engine back too far towards teh firewall to clear the nut on the hydroboost mount.

I did modify XSChop's mount to use solid aluminum spacers instead of washers. I also countersunk the 4 bolts into the aluminum firewall plate. I'm not sure if that is causing some of my issue. I am also using XSChop's transmission mount which shifts the drivetrain rearward.

I'll keep messing with it and see if I can figure out a solution soon. My engine is bolted to the torque tube, but the cross member is not bolted to the chassis yet. My crossmember needs to move towards the drivers side about an inch to be bolted in. ???

It looks like you have the same hydroboost unit i do (not sure what the difference is, but i see some of the hydroboost setups are much more compact than ours!).

Anyways, i wound up having to buy new valve covers. On mine the only interference was with the PCV valve, the rest barely cleared. Since i had swapped to an LS6 PCV system (which is another recommended improvement) i bought some standard LSX valve covers that did not have the PCV connector.

Thanks kachunk, great pics.
I'm sorry but I can't offer any advice about the engine position, but I'm sure I'll encounter my own problems.
How do these boosters get plumbed in?

I made the angle plate out of 1/4" steel so that bolt could be relocated towards the middle if need be. Just trim the steel plate at a diagonal and redrill both plates' stud holes near valve cover. Just leave 1/2" material from center hole to edge when you trim and the plate will still hold a ton of force.

Ahhh ok i will check it out. Thanks!

If you're not making more of these would you mind posting up the drawings for them?

Although I made the steel secondary plate from 1/4" thick steel. The Ebay HB plate that Fliermike posted is pretty thick and can be used. For the firewall plate, just take your cereal bowl and use it as a template and draw on 1/4" thick aluminum or steel (it's Heavy) then scroll it out on a band-saw. Make sure the seconadary steel plate is in the same angle/location as the cereal bowl after you've drilled holes and added spacers/washers to get the factory 12 degrees.

Hey guys, if someone still hasn't installed their booster plate I made, please post the dimensions here. I lost the drawing at the shop and I don't plan on making any more. Thanks

I can, but I won't be able to do it until Monday.

I am playing around with this hydroboost setup - isn't the the default angle (as the unit comes out the box), something like 15 degrees??

I've been stalking this thread too, I think your answer is on page 1

The desired angle is ~12 degrees, was just wondering if anyone had gone forward with the 15 degree setup that comes with the booster. I have since decided do modify the booster plate and weld it to the firewall plate.

Before you weld the plate to the fire wall, Think about servicing the Booster. It will be nearly impossible to get the large nut on and off of the booster once it is in the car. If you feel that the three bolts are not enough I would suggest adding more bolt holes rather than welding it.

Way ahead of you. I am welding the booster plate to another plate that is fashioned after the RH brake mount. That 'RH-Like" plate will then be fastened to the firewall using bolts and nutserts. Thanks for allowing me to clarify.

You might consider a firewall stiffening plate first before bolting up the Hydraboost. Plate is 1/8" stainless steel and is bonded and bolted to the firewall.
My plate later required a bigger hole for the Hydraboost nut.

Oh yeah - I had one of those in place with the manual dual-master setup that I was running. I don't think the hydroboost setup with be seeing the pedal forces that the manual setup was seeing but that plate is still a good idea.

Guys don't forget the Clutch MC has to set at factory angle also, just like the Brake MC when the plate is added. or you'll frag the MC's quickly.

I purchased a remanufactured mustang HB from Rockauto.  Interestingly, it came with a mounting plate and the angle is right around 12o