My History And The Building of my "LS44"

I like that! I REALLY like that!

Hmmmmnm.... Heading out to the garage....

I found a 5" diameter vacuum booster that might fit in the battery box. Xschop was talking about doing that with the C5 corvette booster a while back. The RHD models had to have a something close to what you are suggesting.

Ive been spittin that one out since the beginning of the last board....Marks the first one who likes it

Dude, it's the easy solution... Just get a master/slave with a 1:1 ratio it would cost like $200.... I wonder if I can tuck it in with my coolant res, in the battery tray! No clearance issues, would actually HELP with clearance around the head!!! Ok... Now I need to find a booster...

Mark

The C5 booster will fit in the Battery spot with some "massaging". The firewall brake plate can be machined for a 1" wilwood then braidded flex line to a 1" wilwood on the back of the C5 boster, the front and rear line connections can easily be grafted into at the passenger side firewall as they are fed thru that wall with connections anyways. (AT LEAST ON MY 85.5 THEY ARE)

Thanks for the info XS, Thats what i need to know, do you know the dims of the booster? I need to mount it sideways with enough room to put a VW overflow Reservoir in there... the plumbing is no big deal as i already need to replumb the brakes. They come through the firewall then immediatly out to the passenger wheel well, i am routing them out the side so they cant be seen under hood and the line to the rear is like 6 inches too short for me to simply rebend it... Guess i get to play with my fancy brake flaring tool I bought for this car and havent been able to use... On a side note... Can any one tell me if there is a benifit to any certain type of flare fitting? I believe porsche uses a bubble flare, i could do a simple double flare, or i could do AN 37 deg single flare... All cost about the same...

Mark

The only reason I have found to use the bubble flare tool I have is for the metric lines on the car and the stock bubble flares all the cylinders require to seal.

I never tried to get a regular flare tool to work.

They are all bubble flare (CONVEX) hard lines including the fuel line in the back, and I have found that Inverted Bubble flare fittings work on all the brake lines.....The IBF fittings are CONCAVE on the inside seat of the adapters.

Dude, it's the easy solution... Just get a master/slave with a 1:1 ratio it would cost like $200.... I wonder if I can tuck it in with my coolant res, in the battery tray! No clearance issues, would actually HELP with clearance around the head!!! Ok... Now I need to find a booster...

Yup. So, you gonna do it? Might need one of those space saver hotrod boosters to put in there.

Thanks for the info for the brake lines, About a year ago I bought a really cool hydraulic brake line flare tool, i can do the GM male quick connect, and the different singe and double flares its really cool, I have used it ONCE!!!!! And when i bought all that hard line to do the coolant/oil, i was so excited... till i realized that my kit didnt include 37 degree dies.... and it was another $80 to add them.... AND they didnt go big enough for the oil lines. 5/8 or -10..... So i could have done my fuel system with it but not my oil or half my heater hoses. So now i have an excuse to do it. I think i am going to do AN -3 off the master and throught the firewall into the cowl area then ill switch back to the factory fittings. Ill order a coil of tube and bunch of ends... mine have surface rust... im not taking any chances...

LT1- I am looking into it, I need to figure out a way to build a saftey net into the system, being a single circuit concerns me, if there is a hydraulic failure i have no backup. I am trying to find a tandem cylindar slave but they dont seem to exist... I am wondering if I seal off the feed line of a master and reverse the internal return spring so it basically became a slave cyl would it work, or are they reliable when run backwards... I was thinking running a dual circuit master to a dual circuit slave, then I have redundancy...


Thanks

Mark

LT1- I am looking into it, I need to figure out a way to build a saftey net into the system, being a single circuit concerns me, if there is a hydraulic failure i have no backup. I am trying to find a tandem cylindar slave but they dont seem to exist... I am wondering if I seal off the feed line of a master and reverse the internal return spring so it basically became a slave cyl would it work, or are they reliable when run backwards... I was thinking running a dual circuit master to a dual circuit slave, then I have redundancy...

Ah...well, its no fun when you bring safety into it.

I looked into it too. It looks like, by law, that a car must have a master cylinder with 2 reservoirs and 2 circuits. I guess we all know why. So, I guess the only way to do this idea anymore would be to retain the tandem master in its stock location and run 2 boosters. Unless of course you do find a tandem slave or find out that you can run a master in reverse.

But regardless, takes the snaz right out of it doesnt it. Oh well.

I'm building a BBK kit for the BMW e36 and they are BUBBLE FLARE fittings to just like the 944,928. The inverted flare (sometimes called DOUBLE FLARE) are on the Japanese and others....

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I think i am going to do AN -3 off the master and through the firewall into the cowl area then ill switch back to the factory fittings.

Thats exactly what I did although with the wilwood 260-7563. This master cylinder only has two outlets; 1 front and 1 rear, so I used a 3AN tee behind the firewall. The great thing is that all the 944 original brake tubing (as well as the rest of the cars in the world for that matter) are already 3AN so a few 3AN tube nuts and sleeves did the trick.

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That is an amazing job of hiding the wires and plumbing!

xschop wrote:I'm building a BBK kit for the BMW e36 and they are BUBBLE FLARE fittings to just like the 944,928. The inverted flare (sometimes called DOUBLE FLARE) are on the Japanese and others....

Rob, the Wilwood master needs inverted flare, correct? My plans are like that above with the T, just with hard line instead of braided.

And guys, don't forget to tie in the stock or an adjustable rear proportioning valve. I doubt you will want a 1:1 front to rear setup.

What are the size of the ports on your oil filter mount? I am looking at one like that on Ebay.

-10 ORB

Thanks, found one I had fittings for.

Yeah, those damn fittings bit me HARD! I assumed they were NPT, so I ordered my adapters.... 3/4 was too big...... Oh ok... Must be 1/2.... Exchanged them with summit! NOPE--too small... WTF! start Playing with it and realize my -10 male will thread right in.... CRAP, sure enough I do a little research and find out about ORB fittings, and that its going to cost $70 for a 90 and a 45 deg bend!!! No thanks... I found 2 90's on eBay for $30 shipped! Glad you figured something out!

Mark

Arent those ORB fittings on the Meziere waterpump too???

Marky522 wrote:
I tore apart a truck wiring harness Circuit by circuit, I de-pinned every thing till i had 2 bare 80 pin connectors... Laid each one exactly how i wanted it, there was some definate trial and error... I honestly rebuilt the coil harness for the drivers side 10 times... and that isnt a quick process, it took me probably 4 nights to be happy with it... Every connection has a factory style crimp connector utilizing the Porsche Wire crimping tool (dont tell work!!) then soldered and double heat shrunk (all 3 to 1 shrink tube, glue lined) I was nervous about running all circuits off one of each circuit, so I ran individual power circuits, one circuit for the coils, one for injectors, and one for the rest. All of my circuits ground through the harness to my fuse block ground which is where the PCM grounds, so no noise/interference issues having to ground through the block,

I love the way you have done your wiring harness. I have a 5.3 LM7 engine with wiring harness that I will that I will be using. Could you provide a few more details on how you routed the circuits for the the coils and injectors? What is the woven material you used to cover the wiring harness? What is the Porsche Wire crimping tool you talked about?

I must have quit getting emails that people posted... Woops... I will respond to the missed questions later tonight...

Sorry for the lack of updates, I have a bunch of stuff to add but....

It's Alive!!!

I primed the oil system with 20psi of oil through the remote oil filter using a pressure brake bleeder, primed the fuel system and it seriously cranked up IMMEDIATLY!!!!

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Will update soon!!

Mark

Thought you left us!

Here is how i connected my Walboro 255 to the GM Filter/regulator, I used one of the fuel line repair kits from dorman, the 3/8's with a 90' end, cost like $12 I think, took my factory fuel line from the pump to the filter, removed the end that went into the filter, its just a barbed fitting, trimmed it back slightly to get fresh plastic to push it into and used the barbed piece in the repair kit, boiled it in hot water for like 10 minutes and pushed it all together. Works great and no signs of leaks.

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Kinda OT, but here are pics of a harness I built for a guy on here, turned out better than mine...

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Here is what my firewall looked like...

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And after, much better with the holes filled...

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Another boring day at work...

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I went back and forth a million times on what springs to run... Double or beehive... the added saftey of the double is nice... but the added weight isnt... these springs are supposed to be the best for a beehive, untill recently I hadnt seen a single failure, PAC 1518

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I replaced every exterior bolt to black allen button head, coil pack, front cover etc. I figured it was going to cost me $75 for the factory bolts i was missing, and it only cost me $80 for like 5x more bolts than i needed it was an easy choice...

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Didnt have button head for the alternator or the intake so i had to settle for regular black allen bolts

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The belt i used for a solid mounted alternator... looped it around the alternator then half way around the crank and used a socket to spin the crank and the belt popped on... almost perfect, it could be like 5mm longer...

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updated setup under passenger fender...

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To make for less plumbing i moved it here... if i would have left it under the fender I would have needed to drill another hole for a 3rd bulkhead fitting into the battery tray so my coolant reseviour could "T" into the return heater line BEFORE the heater control valve. I will be fabbing up a cover for this area...

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I forgot how low this car sits... ITs actually back on all 4 wheels... Ugly wheels.... but beggers cant be choosers...

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This is about 95% of it... just waiting on the brake and clutch master cylinder's, and radiator hoses... Steering shaft....

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This shows ground clearance... my front suspension is currently as HIGH as it will go, so the car was sitting lower... not sure i will go that low again, but its still plenty low...

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This picture is decieving, it makes the collector look very low, but you can see in the previous pic they dont sit below the body of the car, tucked up NICE!!!

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This shows it better... please ignore the brake line, its just pulled up out of the way till i get my new lines, and the nasty caster blocks are going to be replaced with either Elephant Racing monoballs or complete control arms...

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And these two make me feel MUCH better about my lines, there is no way the wheel is going to hit them, now i just need to setup my wheel well liners and shield the lines.

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So I am currently waiting on my reseviour, I decided on a VW res its shaped like a soccer ball, came with the cap and coolant sensor for ....... $16 shipped new on ebay.... And my brake and clutch master's and the braided -3 lines i ordered to keep the M/c's clean. And i need to stop at advance and pickup some 3/8 line for coolant for my vent tubes to the overflow, solid vac line to feed the HVAC stuff, radiator hoses, and a cap for the fill port on the N/A radiator.

I have also contacted "Howe Racing" and was quoted a custom radiator according to the Turbo Dim's with AN -16 fittings, dual pass, both fittings on the passenger side, with a drain plug in the bottom, and mounting tabs across the top and bottom, ( I will remeasure before ordering as i plan to cut out all the factory radiator brackets so i may have more room to go wider) for around $400...


Feed back is welcome!!!

Ok, its been awhile, but i have made quite a bit of progress... Going on its second drive tonight, but will hopefully be able to go higher than 1500 RPMS with throttle cutting out. ( Was flashed wrong, didnt change from Auto to manual so Torque management was PISSED OFF and would take throttle away) So i wasnt a happy camper, but i was able to screw with the PRNDL wiring at the PCM and fix it till i get Tuning software!

It appears i succeded in my quest for a clean engine bay! The air filter will be under the nose panel, i just need to trim the cross-bar, but im going to wait till I have a new radiator and gut everything between the rails, and make a bolt in panel since I always drop the engine in from the top it will make it a little easier. I also amd going to get a new plastic cowl cover and make aluminum covers for the left and right of the cowl.
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This just shows my heater hoses, and all the room in front of the engine! I have part numbers for the hoses, they worked GREAT!!! Just found them at Advance with my measurements!
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Clutch and Brake master, fed from two hidden reseviours, I actually mounted the clutch master from the inside of the firewall, had to make a oval hole, but its not noticable and allowed me to use stock pushrod!
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A shot of the steering shaft and headers from the front.
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Passenger clearance, plenty, almost wish I had moved the engine slightly to the Passenger side but will need to clearance crossmember for my headers now! Dipstick tube needs to be shortened alot!
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Coolant reseviour and heater control valve, my hose routing neds to be cleaned up a bit, but it all holds pressure!
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Overhead view of clutch/Brake master setup, need a longer wire for the #8 coil, need slightly longer wires for all of them, Suggestions?
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Firewall clearances, I need to cover the fuel lines in my braided loom, just wanted to verify no leaks!
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My hidden reseviours... Whats missing.... Didnt realize till AFTER i welded my mounting brackets in...
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Steering shaft modified and installed, I got a S10 collapsable steering shaft, cut out a chunk of the slip fit Double D only cost me $10, for exaclty what Summit wanted $90 for....
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Side view...
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