Mass airflow sensor

Hey,

I made a big oversight that I caught early this week, I forgot about the mass airflow sensor. I would like to go 4” the whole way, but I haven’t found any MAF’s that are that big. I did find this, the guy seems to have done a good job: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


Talking to Brendan from LT1swap he recommends keeping the MAF in place, he said that the above unit will work and that a map from an LS3 MAF will get close, but will require a tune to take the best advantage of. What do you guys think? Could I install this, have the engine running decently enough to drive it to a rolling road and have the computer re-flashed? Is dynoing usually an all day thing and does the conversion complicate matters any for the shop? I don’t know what diameter the LS3 MAF is but it should run well enough to drive, and the O2 sensors will keep the engine in good enough trim so that it doesn’t go nasty lean.

Opinions?

That Ebay part looks like something you could easily make yourself.
If the dyno shop is good, you should have your car tuned to perfection and a few hours or less. That being said sometimes I have seen a "good" shop take a couple of days if things are really messed up....

I have a MAF that has five wires. I can only find a plug on the GTO with three wires that has anything at all to do with the MAF. There was a separate intake air temperature sensor though, and the new MAF has that built in. I've gotten Brendan to put a curve in the computer that should come pretty close to reality, so it'll get me started. The other thing that has made things a bit difficult is that the colors of my wires are not consistently matching the colors in either the manual or sometimes the other pinout chart I have. I'm not too worried about it, but has anyone run into that inconvienence?

The New Sensor Calls for, and I've hooked it up as follows:

Low Reference: ?
IAT Sensor Signal: Pin 25, C2 Brown
Ground: Pin 1, C1 Black/Red
Ignition Voltage: Pin 21, C1 Custom run Wire
MAF Sensor Signal: Pin 31, C2 Brown/White


Is what I've done correct or should I just use the stock temp sensor and leave the pins on the new MAF for the IAT blank? What should I use for a low reference?

Also, for the fuel pump relay why can't I splice into pin 5 on the 14 pin underhood connector instead of running directly to the relay as instructed in the manual. This article says that pin 5 isn't used: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


Thanks,
Luke

i dont know if you know, but ebay also has 5 to 3 wire maf adapter, i dont know the link but can check it out for you

If you are keeping the DME relay (G5) then it already powers the fuel pump thru fuse#34.
If you make your own relay, then splice into pin #4 and you must remove G5 factory DME relay.

Thanks, Modenas. I have a blank plug and the pins and am building my own. I just want to know if I'm going about it the right way. Since they make a 5 to 3 adapter then maybe I should leave the stock IAT sensor and only use the three wires for the MAF. What pin should I use for a low reference?

The bigger question is: what kind of setup will you be running?

Anything under 4xx+ cubes won't generate enough of a signal for a 4" MAF and the car will run like crap even after a tune. You'd be much better off going with a speed density system (no MAF, but the car will run like crap until you have the computer actually converted to SD). Either way, you're looking at a few hours with a knowledgeable tuner, you can't mail-order a tune like that.

If you have anything other than forced induction or a massive cam, the car will run better with a MAF setup. So basically your choices are:

-Huge cam or forced induction, or just really want a 4" intake: Speed density
-Huge cubic inches: 4" MAF
-Otherwise: 3.5" intake and 3.5" MAF.

Fits everything and can't beat the price!
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