Sway bars choices

Ok now looking into the last piece for my rear end. Sway bars. What is evryone running. The guys racing what are you running. As i have to have the rear made, i want to match as well. I was thinking the MO30 units. Run the factory MO30 on the front and have the rear made. Any body no the calculations for this. There are many sizes for the MO30. Thoughts anyone. Big MO30 at 30 mm front an 19 mm rear.

I run the M030 setup on my race car, 30 front, 19 rear.

Ditto...

Jack

Thank you both appreciate the replies.

I run the Weltmeister 28mm front and M030 rear.

968 M030 here.

I haven't done a swap yet, but I run a custom 22.3mm three way adjustable bar. It essentially picks up where the M030 bar leaves off. My modification path has been to do brakes, then suspension (swap will come later) . After replacing all the bushings with mono-balls and aluminum I was having trouble getting the rear end to rotate sufficiently. Part of it was the driver not pushing hard enough (since corrected) but it was also the flat set-up and the rear tire sizes I was running. The formerly stock engine has been juiced up a bit now to around 300-330 hp and the car is really in its sweet spot. The car rotates beautifully and is very "toss-able" in a controlled way.

It was custom made by the shop that does my track set up work. He has a few left available for sale on E-bay: 22.3 mm Sway bar

Thank you all very much for the input. Unfortunatley for me i can not use the rear stock design as my car has the Z06 trans. I will do the MO30 front with the matching MO30 size designed for my set up in the ass end.

What's the rest of the car, and what's its purpose?  If stock or street, just go with the MO30 bars.  Simple and easy and will really tighten up the car.

If you need adjustability, go with the Weltmeister or Tarrett units.  Note that the Weltmeisters are super heavy but are better matched to one another than the Tarrett units; the Tarrett units are gorgeous and top notch but the rear bar is too stiff relative to the front (I actually just had a conversation about this with the owner recently).


EDIT: I just saw your comment about the 'vette trans. The only rear bar I'm aware of that isn't 100% like the stock bar is the Tarrett unit -- see if that might work for you.

Thanks for the input, the factory bar just needs a slight mod to work. I am just going to cut my 924 bar and mock up and ship out to be built. Still using the stock mount points.

kevin924kevin wrote:Thanks for the input, the factory bar just needs a slight mod to work. I am just going to cut my 924 bar and mock up and ship out to be built. Still using the stock mount points.

I'm sure you already know this but make sure any welding you do is nowhere near the core torsion element of the bar. Spring steel can be very adversely affected by welding. I would also recommend preheating the steel before welding and not quenching it afterwards. If we knew the type of steel we could determine how best to anneal it.

I will let a pro make the new one. I will just supply the template. There are a bunch of companies that will make what I need.

kevin924kevin wrote:I will let a pro make the new one. I will just supply the template. There are a bunch of companies that will make what I need.

Oh perfect, even better. Just remember there are plenty of hillbillies with a welder who label themselves as "pros".

Love your build, BTW. Very cool.

Ya i know, I have spoken to a couple of big shops that do this, and even Lindsey racing will make what you want. Thanks about the build it has been very interesting.