LSX Pilot Adapter

It should be noted that if your driveshaft doesn't insert all the way into the stock 944 Pilot bearing (15x35x11) then you can go up to a 15x35x14 pilot bearing.
This will save you alot of headache and keep the Bushing adapter from walking out towards the back side of the clutch disk and causing havoc like friction welded tips and chewed shaft splines.
I did this and it gives the shaft tip more insertion.

EDIT: wrong forum.

is there an easy way to tell that its inserting all the way? Im not 100% confident everything seated well when I bolted this up... Im going to test more after I bleed the MC.

Drive it in the crank (with a block of wood, etc.) until it stops. The LS adapter sticks out of the crank ~.400 inch [the difference in crank location between the SBC / LT1 and LSX engines]. If you're using the 14mm pilot bearing, add ~3mm to the pilot adapter distance past crank flange...

You must know the inner bellhousing/TO bearing face to block/BH face distance on that QT BH in relation to your Driveshaft to TT flange dimension..... Does that QT BH have an inspection hole?
Originally I machined a bushing (blue) to keep the Pilot bearing/bushing from walking out towards the back side of the clutch disk and creating a catastrophy. I got the 5mm bushing depth dimension by mic'ing the play between the 15x35x11 (stock) 944 pilot bearing to drivehaft tip/step. After doing some research, I found a 15x35x14mm roller bearing and installed it....This will give you more driveshaft tip insertion/engagement as well and will keep your driveshaft tip from fragging......Hope this helps
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After 15x35x14mm PB swap....
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OH, I almost forgot to mention the most important sidenote..... *PORH

The part # for the 14mm bearing is 6202-2RS.

Ill take a look the QT bellhousing has the hole for the clutch fork, not something I could get calipers into but Ill be able to at least visually check it out.

Hey Tet, it really is worth your time and money, and possibly your safety to remove the clutch disk and Pressure plate and install the TT shaft into the Pilot bearing to check it's clearance first.Then install clutch after you know it is riding in the PB correctly....

Im not totally sure things will go any smoother If i do this though, sure Ill be able to check to see that its all properly seated, but getting the engine to mate up with the bellhousing (clutch or no) wasnt a picnic, the same uncertainty will apply... I had to use strap clamps to get the motor to the bellhousing.
If I open up the front end for radiator shenanigans Ill definitely pull the motor again, since the hoist will have that extra reach...
Cant I measure stuff from the transmission?

Hey Tet, I would say go back to the trans, Undo the coupling and see how far you can push the shaft forward into the pilot. BUT BE SURE TO BACK IT BACK OFF the .24 that is in xschops diagram. That should put your mind at ease. Someone mentioned this proceedure a while ago. He redrilled for the bolt. Also I had trouble with the bh hitting the starter nose on my engine. (ls) I had to relieve the area in the bh to get the bh to sit flat against the block. The second time I installed it, it slid right in with just a little wiggle. If I cleaned the grease off the top of the starter nose I wouldn't have known where it was hitting. It was only about a 16th off . Something to think about ,hope it helps.

gt1scca wrote:The part # for the 14mm bearing is 6202-2RS.

If you search google with that part #, the 11mm bearing comes up. Is this the correct part #?: 62202-2RS

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Here's some bearings that match that size.

make sure the bearing is at least shielded on the shaft input side, because clutch dust will frag the naked PB quicker than an RH needle bearing.

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Here's the real deal....

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xschop wrote:You must know the inner bellhousing/TO bearing face to block/BH face distance on that QT BH in relation to your Driveshaft to TT flange dimension..... Does that QT BH have an inspection hole?
Originally I machined a bushing (blue) to keep the Pilot bearing/bushing from walking out towards the back side of the clutch disk and creating a catastrophy. I got the 5mm bushing depth dimension by mic'ing the play between the 15x35x11 (stock) 944 pilot bearing to drivehaft tip/step. After doing some research, I found a 15x35x14mm roller bearing and installed it....This will give you more driveshaft tip insertion/engagement as well and will keep your driveshaft tip from fragging......Hope this helps
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After 15x35x14mm PB swap....
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OH, I almost forgot to mention the most important sidenote..... *PORH

With the pilot bearing and adapter installed flush with the flywheel face it looks like it will interfere with the front of the clutch disk as it sets forward of the flywheel face by almost 1/4 inch.
Has anybody had this problem?
Thanks

Patb wrote:With the pilot bearing and adapter installed flush with the flywheel face it looks like it will interfere with the front of the clutch disk as it sets forward of the flywheel face by almost 1/4 inch.
Has anybody had this problem?
Thanks

I'm running the thicker pilot bearing without issue. The car is approaching 30k miles here soon and has been my daily driver for the past 6-7 months now.

robstah wrote:

Patb wrote:With the pilot bearing and adapter installed flush with the flywheel face it looks like it will interfere with the front of the clutch disk as it sets forward of the flywheel face by almost 1/4 inch.
Has anybody had this problem?
Thanks

I'm running the thicker pilot bearing without issue. The car is approaching 30k miles here soon and has been my daily driver for the past 6-7 months now.

I must have something wrong. My pilot bearing and adapter will share .23" of space with the hub on the clutch disk. Did your disk not protrude forward of the flywheel face?
Im thinking of removing .25 from the front of the pilot adapter.
I'm using a gen IV 5.3 not sure if that matters
Thanks for your help and have a great 4th

Patb wrote:I must have something wrong. My pilot bearing and adapter will share .23" of space with the hub on the clutch disk. Did your disk not protrude forward of the flywheel face?
Im thinking of removing .25 from the front of the pilot adapter.
I'm using a gen IV 5.3 not sure if that matters
Thanks for your help and have a great 4th

What are you using for a flywheel? I have no clue as to what was changed between Gen III and Gen IV, though it seems people are running Gen IV on here without issue.

Patb wrote:With the pilot bearing and adapter installed flush with the flywheel face it looks like it will interfere with the front of the clutch disk as it sets forward of the flywheel face by almost 1/4 inch.
Has anybody had this problem?

Yes. I had this problem. I used the 15x35x14mm bearing, installed everything to find out that the clutch would not disengage. I had to take it all back apart to switch to the 11mm version.

I was/am using an LS7 FW/PP and a LuK disc. It may not happen to others depending on the disc they buy Im guessing. Anyway, heres a picture of the 14mm bearing after removal. You can see the blueing from friction against the disc hub.

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944-LT1 wrote:

Patb wrote:With the pilot bearing and adapter installed flush with the flywheel face it looks like it will interfere with the front of the clutch disk as it sets forward of the flywheel face by almost 1/4 inch.
Has anybody had this problem?

Yes. I had this problem. I used the 15x35x14mm bearing, installed everything to find out that the clutch would not disengage. I had to take it all back apart to switch to the 11mm version.

I was/am using an LS7 FW/PP and a LuK disc. It may not happen to others depending on the disc they buy Im guessing. Anyway, heres a picture of the 14mm bearing after removal. You can see the blueing from friction against the disc hub.

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Do you think milling the pilot adapter is a possible solution?
I think I can get the shaft forward to fully seat in the bearing.

I've been cutting the depth of the LSX pilot adapters to 0.925"

I've posted before and it makes sense that every clutch disc as it sets on the Flywheel should have it's rear hub to pilot measured to ensure it clears even as the disc wears as it will move towards the pilot by 1/2 the thickness of the disc material.

BTW the same goes for Grenade Hybrids...PORH

Pat,

Did you ever figure this out? Running into the same issue on my 5.3L conversion, clutch disc hub hits the pilot bearing adapter before the friction surface of the flywheel touches. Even if that cleared, I think the springs on the clutch disc would then hit the flywheel bolts.

Placing a flat edge across the flywheel i get the following clearences:
Flywheel surface to pilot bearing/adapter: 2.54mm
Flywheel surface to flywheel bolt head: 4.11mm
End of the pilot bearing adapter to the crank (amount adapter sticks out) 10.24mm
Depth in crank that adapter can insert (from outer edge of crank to seating surface): 16.16mm
1" pilot adapter from TPC and his clutch disc on an LS1 flywheel

Karl

Karl,
I cut .23 from the face of the pilot adapter and everything went in smooth
I have a std camaro flywheel and pressure plate with an 11" disk with a porsche hub.
Everything went smooth from there.
The only other snag was getting my pan off the x member, I just shimmed the mounts up about 1/8".
I have it running but progress is slow as I started with a car that should have been crushed, so i'v been rebuilding a car as well as re powering it.
Have you got to brakes or cooling yet?
Pat

Patb wrote:Karl,
I cut .23 from the face of the pilot adapter and everything went in smooth
I have a std camaro flywheel and pressure plate with an 11" disk with a porsche hub.
Everything went smooth from there.
The only other snag was getting my pan off the x member, I just shimmed the mounts up about 1/8".
I have it running but progress is slow as I started with a car that should have been crushed, so i'v been rebuilding a car as well as re powering it.
Have you got to brakes or cooling yet?
Pat

Excellent. And the TT nose still inserted far enough into the pilot bearing? I'm not sure what disc I am using, Eric sent it to me, hopefully it is a similar setup and the trimming will work. My crossmember is mounted up, once the clutch is figured out, I can raise the motor up into the chassis. I'll start a build thread soon.

My TT and shaft went together smooth and the shaft is fully seated in the bearing. I got all my stuff from Eric, all good stuff, the headers are like jewelry, I'm sure your disk is proper size and more than good quality.