Floor mounted Brake Pedal

I was just wondering if anyone has looked into or thought about doing a floor mounted brake pedal with the dual mc setup. Instead of trying to cram everything into our engine bay. the Wilwood floor mount pedal has a 6 to 1 and it would be like the old school 911s down there. Just a thought i am really starting to like.

There are a couple of builds here using that setup and I'm sure they will speak up. Realize that it will push your seat back a few inches, that was a problem for me as it would have put my head directly under the roll bar.

We just finished installing a 75 series Tilton 2 pedal setup with a drive by wire gas pedal. When it was first laid out as explained by Lemming, the seating position was too far back to make it comfortable. We ended up doing some severe fabrication and strengthening to the angled firewall and floor pan. It now sits in the same position as the original and is rigid as hell. I am going to change the front and rear masters down one size from what we have to get some more pressure and a little less effort required. Going to use a 625 front and a 700 rear. The clutch is a 875 and feels perfect. Otherwise I am happy with the feel and position. Would I do it again? Probably not. Just too much fabrication. I'll try and post a few pics when I get a chance.

Somebody posted one on rennlist, maybe it was thom?

Anyways, it looked really good but I much prefer having hydroboost!

No that wasn't me on rennlist, but I'm still working on getting some pics up. Maybe Milkman can do it. He took the photos and can take some new ones.

thank you for the feed back guys. Looking forward to seeing your pictures of the finished product.

Lemming wrote:There are a couple of builds here using that setup and I'm sure they will speak up. Realize that it will push your seat back a few inches, that was a problem for me as it would have put my head directly under the roll bar.

yeah don't want my head under roll bar so i gots some measuring to do

Not the greatest photo, but I'll get more.
With the pedals forward like this, heel toe operation is much more comfortable.

Your mc are still attached to the pedal assembly and your fluid containers are in the engine bay. Just making sure I get your set-up.

That's correct. All three masters are on the pedals with remote reservoirs. With the Tilton 75 series, the master are shorter than the standard ones. The problem with these, or any master that I found to fit, had the fittings coming out the end reducing the pedal position even further. I could have put the reservoirs anywhere I wanted with this set up, including on the masters. This just looked the neatest with ease of filling. Additionally the reservoir has to be above the calipers to eliminate a siphon effect.

Have you driven the car with this setup yet and what calipers are you using? How does the pedal feel is it really hard.

As of now we have the small black Turbo calipers on. That may change to big black. We just want to make sure everything else is operating correctly before we start upgrading. I plan on doing a brake hose change to braided and change the master size also. The pedal travel is much less than I anticipated so I can go smaller on the master and get more pressure without a problem. Right now I think the pedal effort is too high and will improve with the master change. Does this answer your questions?

Yes it does. Thank you. I think I will go with just the brake pedal and leave the clutch and gas alone. That helps a lot.

I do have one more question about the mounting of your pedal. You said it took a lot of fabrication work what is exactly did you do. Or was that just a simple bolt on with an extra sheet of metal so it was more rigid. Thank you

I wish the photo of the pedal assembly was more detailed. We cut the firewall at the section to where it meets the floor. This is a double steel section of the firewall. The unitized frame rail also goes through the section that needed to be cut. We then welded in new supporting steel and boxed in the section for the master cylinders to sit further forward. Then we added an additional steel plate to the floor section to stiffen that up also. The bolts for the left side of the pedal assemble unfortunately went straight through the boxed section of the frame rail. This required welding in steel tubes to keep extra strength when tightening the hold down bolts. Then the brake lines and reservoir lines needed to be run. All This just to move the pedals forward approx. 3 inches. Tomorrow I will attempt to take a better photo for you.

That would be great to see some more pictures. My car was originally NA and I'm upgrading to the turbo brakes. If it feels I need them later down the road I'll upgrade to the big blacks. Thank you for your input it helps a lot.

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That's the best I can do. A photographer I'm not.

Here's my setup.



This moves my seating position rearward about 4" as Thom avoided by reworking the firewall. But I wanted to be further back and lower anyway for clearance to my roll cage. I spaced out my steering wheel and extended my shift lever to suit.

Rich

Thank you so much for your feedback and the pictures, if anyone else did this setup please post.

Rich was able to do his setup because his roll bar is behind the B-piller, not aligned with it like mine.

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Finished product with new carpet. Just need to route the remote bias cable.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but what bore diameter master cylinders are you running with this setup?

I'm running 5/8 (.625") front and 3/4 (.75") rear Wilwood Compact Remote masters. This in a Tilton pedal box with BigReds up front and stock 944 turbo rear calipers.

Rich

Rich, how do you find the brakes. Are they as good as a hydro boost unit ?