Rich's LS powered 944 track car

Should I grease these engine mount bushings?

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944convert wrote:

Rich L. wrote:Do you think the new ones are better and will last longer?

Maybe Eric can tell us if and when a change was made.

I think most likely my installation has the mounts in bind. The older mounts snapped a bolt, revised ones chewed through the bushings. Perhaps I'm not letting the engine find a comfortable position. Or that position changes with heat at the track. I'm going to try loosening and retightening the mounts after a run session first time out.

It could even be changing due to other driveline movement. My trans has the stock rubber mount filled with polyurethane. What do others use?

The washer from beneath the crossmember at the mount attachment bolt is deformed. I don't know if this was from over tightening or from movement of the mount.

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I see that the hole in the crossmemeber is rather much larger than the bolt. Perhaps this needs a grade 8 hardened washer.

Rich L. wrote:The older mounts snapped a bolt, revised ones chewed through the bushings.
It could even be changing due to other driveline movement. My trans has the stock rubber mount filled with polyurethane. What do others use?

Good points...I hope we hear more info.

The real solution is to redesign the mount to be solid, surprised this hasn't been considered yet. If dampening is really needed it could be addressed at the mount /x brace instead.

Rich's issue seemed to be related to temperature. Being near a header is bad enough, when you stack a hot track and hot ambient temps on top of that it doesn't take much for urethane to degrade and fall apart. my .02.

Rich, i noticed the washer deforming on my car also when i dropped the crossmember to get the power steering lines routed. I think the washer just deformed from tightening the mounting nut onto the stud, with how large the hole is on the crossmember i think thats just the way its going to be.

Looking at your picture, i think a simple machined washer can be made with a raised section to center the washer in the hole in the crossmember and keep it from moving around and deforming when the nut is tightened.

Also how many miles aproximately with the bushings that fell apart? No issues with mine so far; at about 2900 miles on my swap. I am using the Lindsey semi-solid trans mount also.

Miles? Well it was 5 and a half track days. So about a thousand, every mile driven hard.

Did everyone refit the factory lower chassis brace after the engine conversion? I did not as it didn't fit with my exhaust y-pipe. Perhaps I'm getting chassis flex under cornering loads that's squishing the bushings. Maybe I need one of these braces, anyone tried it?

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Rich L. wrote:

It could even be changing due to other driveline movement. My trans has the stock rubber mount filled with polyurethane. What do others use?

I have Rob's transmission mount, quality piece.

I've finally started working on my aero improvements. First up is a turbo front bumper, found one locally with the header panel and headlight covers from a guy parting out a gold car. I've got the ducting setup to use the intercooler inlet for my RX7 oil cooler mounted in the nose.

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Next up is the scary part, trimming the fenders to match the turbo profile. Has anyone on here done this job? Any tips?

Rich L. wrote:I've finally started working on my aero improvements. First up is a turbo front bumper, found one locally with the header panel and headlight covers from a guy parting out a gold car. I've got the ducting setup to use the intercooler inlet for my RX7 oil cooler mounted in the nose.

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Next up is the scary part, trimming the fenders to match the turbo profile. Has anyone on here done this job? Any tips?

Yep, I trimmed my fenders.

I made a cardboard template by taping a piece to the bumper cover, I then traced the lines.
I then taped the cardboard to the fender, drew the line and used a cut off wheel to cut the fender.

After trimming the fender, I then dressed the cuts by rounding them off with a sander and painted the bare metal.

Mine came out very well, you really can't tell the difference.

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Nice. That does look good. So you didn't try to bend a new lip into the panel? Others describe doing this but I worry bending won't work well or look good through the curves.

Rich L. wrote:Nice. That does look good. So you didn't try to bend a new lip into the panel? Others describe doing this but I worry bending won't work well or look good through the curves.

No, if you bend a lip you will have to fill and repair where the bend starts. By trimming without bending, you only need to touch up the cut metal which is a very small area.

Test fit of the TPC lower lip spoiler. It drags on my trailer ramps...

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I think i remember seeing someone attached one with D-Zus fasteners. I want to do something similar as i have the same issue. Backing up onto the trailer is a little too sketchy also .

I used a hole saw on mine so you can access the screws from under the car. Despite only being 8 or 10 screws i still hate taking it off.

Rich L. wrote:Test fit of the TPC lower lip spoiler. It drags on my trailer ramps...

Add some wood to the ramps.  It's a pain, but easier than installing/removing parts.

I hear ya, Tim. But I already have a complicated layered ramp setup, made my old n-a bumper w/ air damn just barely load/unload. I'm now looking at a set of RaceRamps to make it work with this new turbo bumper and fiberglass lip. The other choice I've found is a splitter setup from Good Aero which is, "removable in less than one minute without tools." Cost is about the same between the two options.

I pull my front end off when trailering, 8 dzus fasteners, two clamps, and two clevis pins; takes about 10 minutes.

I finally have the TPC lower lip installed with the turbo bumper. Everything is on nice and solidly including good ducting for the radiators and brakes.

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The lower lip extends back past the radiator support where the belly pan attaches. Makes for a nice flat floor in the front. I coated it in rubberized bed liner, hopefully it'll hold up.

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Weather is supposed to be nice next week, hitting the track Wednesday to test n tune. I've replaced the front shocks and changed the spring rates a bit since last season. New tires, new pads.

Here we go! 2016!

think the belly pan really helps lower temps? Or is it just an aero thing?

Definitely! Only ran without it once and water temps were much higher. Should be even better now with the forward section closed too.

I've been running pretty much the same configuration as you, splitter and belly pan. I was just wondering if you'd seen a difference, can't say that I have...

WooHoo! Track day yesterday with great results. The lower lip stayed attached, bumper was solid and the cooling is improved. Sunny 70 degree day and water temps stayed below 180 and oil temps stayed below 220. And I set a P.R. of 1:33 around Pacific Raceways, a second better than my previous best.

Heading out to The Ridge tomorrow for more lapping.

Cool! Glad to hear it's back in business.

I just found my passenger side motor mount bushing to be gone as well - not a trace! I had some left over urethane bushings from suspension kit that were the correct O.D. I drilled out the ID to match the insert, and put some thick metal washers the ends - hopefully this gets me through the next weekend. I look solid.

Update: The 944 is running great! Just back from a weekend at Oregon Raceway Park. Here's a quick vid from my buddy's 4kq, passed by a C7 Vette on street tires and me on NT-01. We traded the lead back and forth, neither of us could get away from the other. Good times!

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