Another Forsche Exclusive...

Started with 6.25" from top of factory 944 shifter to center pin.....
Ended up with 5.00" and a 20% throw reduction all using factory parts....

Severely worn shifter pin looks "barreled", I'm surprised the E-clip was still holding LOL...
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I milled off the factory welds to the pin with a carbide bit and machined a new nice 'N' tite pin to weld back in it's place...
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I used a 1/4" end mill to make the top rubber bushing stays drop exactly 1.25".....
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I simply cut off 1.25" from the bottom of the stock shifter knob....the bottom factory rubber bushing fits nicely with 1/32" trimmed from the ribs on it's sides.....
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Machined a new replaceable pin out of 4130 steel.....nuttin but the best....
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Weld that joker in....
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Voila.....factory short shifter.....
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Can't wait for my new boot cover to arrive

I always thought that it was the distance betwwen your pivot and linkage that shortened your throws. I like that idea though, let me know how it works.

It shortens the head throw and I always hated the shifter being in the way of the console....

I prettied up the replaceable pin drawing from the shop today..... Have fun....

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I hate to disappoint you, but that's been done before. I did it back when I had the old Porsche trans still in my car. You'll really be disappointed when you find that you have to clearance the tunnel to get your car into reverse

I tested it out last night after reinstalling (all of 5 minutes).....I have no Idea what you mean. I only dropped the shift head above the shift pin. I didn't move the shift pin up or down because I didn't want binding of the long shiftrod in the tunnel.

I used Molybdenum grease in the ball socket and shifter pin.....she's SMOOTH

Sorry, I was just scanning, I thought you moved the pin location, I did not notice that you just shortened the knob......
My Bad............

I ain't sweatin ya. Everybody's entitled...

Installed in Neutral really does give a shorter throw with the head lowered....But I have to be able to crank that jazzy Blaubunkt with some ol' skool DJ magic mann.....

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And You're right, if you raise that pin to get a quicker shift at the rear, you are getting too close for comfort when going in reverse (even in stock configuration).....all other gears clear by a mile.....

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sorry but i can't seem to figure this out...where exactly did you cut and remove material from on the shifter bar (the metal one). I'm hoping to do the same thing to lower the head of the shifter a bit, and make my nice custom german shift knob and boot fit better, the way i have it now, the boot will pop off if i shift into second or reverse, and sometimes going into first. it didn't do this when i had the short shift kit installed on the trans, but that's no longer there and now my freaking shift boot will not stay on!!!

The 4th pic shows where I milled the profile to match the factory rubber catch profile 1.25" lower....

The 5th pic shows where I just cut it off after the milling.....

Does anybody have a spare plastic leather boot clip that attaches the boot to the console frame? I can't find one....

oh i see, i didn't put two and two together. I was thinking that you cut a piece out of the middle and welded it back together, but i couldn't find the seams...that's what was confusing. I now understand how you did it though, i wish i had the equipment to machine stuff whenever i wanted...

If you are OCD and have a dremel tool you can do this mod yourself to a new shifter rod (pin already new anyways).... I really like the feel of the shifter and it does give a shorter throw on the head.